Farming https://perfectdailygrind.com/category/farming/ Coffee News: from Seed to Cup Thu, 24 Apr 2025 17:32:43 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://perfectdailygrind.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/cropped-pdg-icon-32x32.png Farming https://perfectdailygrind.com/category/farming/ 32 32 Record coffee futures mean producers are price makers – but it’s complicated https://perfectdailygrind.com/2025/04/what-record-coffee-prices-mean-for-producers/ Mon, 07 Apr 2025 05:42:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=118222 Sustained high arabica prices have created an unprecedented time for the coffee industry. Arabica futures, which hit a record high of US $4.41/lb in early February, have risen consistently since April 2024. Everyone across the supply chain is feeling the effects. While roasters and traders grapple with tighter margins and cash flow crises, producers face […]

The post Record coffee futures mean producers are price makers – but it’s complicated appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Sustained high arabica prices have created an unprecedented time for the coffee industry. Arabica futures, which hit a record high of US $4.41/lb in early February, have risen consistently since April 2024.

Everyone across the supply chain is feeling the effects. While roasters and traders grapple with tighter margins and cash flow crises, producers face difficult decisions about where to sell their coffee. Some are declining long-term contracts to sell at higher prices, hoping to reinvest in their farms. Traditional trade dynamics are shifting, and everyone needs to adapt.

For producers specifically, there’s a narrative that higher prices mean higher profits, but the reality is more complex. Unpredictable weather, rising fertiliser costs, and labour shortages all add pressure to farmers’ operations. Additionally, buyers are more cagey, so more options don’t necessarily equate to a better position for producers.

I spoke to Bram de Hoog, the founder of Paso Paso Coffee, and Judith Ganes, president of J. Ganes Consulting, to find out more.

You may also like our article on why record coffee prices signal a new era for the industry.

Diego Robelo coffee producer packaging.

Trade dynamics are changing for the long term

The C market relies on coffee futures, or contracts purchased previously, whereby producers honour a set price to sell their coffee to an importer or another intermediary. 

This builds the baseline price for arabica and determines the current price for physical coffee. Buyers and sellers negotiate contracts through price discovery – agreements made prior to harvests or through long-term relationships.

But other factors are also at play. Coffee prices are at their highest levels since the late 1970s, driven by the climate crisis, supply shortages in Brazil and Vietnam, and longstanding logistical challenges.

US President Trump’s recent sweeping global tariffs on over 180 countries, including many producing countries, are exacerbating volatility. Shortly after “Liberation Day”, when Trump announced between 10% and 46% on imports from 15 of the world’s top 20 coffee-producing countries, the C price fell sharply from US $3.88/lb to US $3.66/lb, as bearish speculators anticipated shifts in demand.

While the C price remains high, close to US $3.6/lb, Trump’s tariffs will have a major impact on producers. Those in countries which have been hit with higher levies may experience a significant drop in demand as roasters and importers shift to other origins to cope with a surge in costs. This is likely to cause unprecedented uncertainty and make it difficult for producers to plan ahead.

Producers have more choice than ever

Traditionally, producers have been at the mercy of the C market, forced to accept historically low prices that undervalue coffee, while buyers act as the “price makers”. This effectively puts importers and roasters in positions of power and can trap producers, especially smallholders, in cycles of poverty.

However, sustained high coffee prices are shifting these dynamics. Roasters and traders are under more pressure than ever as they struggle with cash flow management. This exacerbates the trend of market consolidation that has been a hallmark of the global coffee sector over the last five years.

Higher arabica futures mean producers have greater leverage than ever. As such, they can choose from a wider range of buyers. For many, the option to sell locally for a higher price is more appealing than honouring less lucrative contracts.

Their intentions may be good, for instance, to reinvest later in their farms. Buying new equipment and replacing ageing coffee plants are necessary to improve quality and yields, which many producers have been unable to do after receiving consistently low prices for so long.

However, although lucrative in some cases, defaulting on contracts can create a number of problems for producers.

“There will always be some producers that try to renegotiate long-term contracts or abandon them in favour of short-term gains,” says Judith Ganes, the president of J. Ganes Consulting.

This can result in blacklisting and make it difficult for producers to secure future contracts. Additionally, defaulting can damage long-term relationships with roasters and traders built over years.

A producers drinks a mug of coffee on a farm.

How is the specialty coffee market adapting?

Although it operates outside of the C market, specialty coffee is still impacted by record arabica futures. When the C price exceeds US $2/lb, roasters often panic, as it directly impacts their ability to maintain margins without raising consumer prices. 

“The current market shifts are more related to conventional coffee than specialty, which is sold for a premium,” Judith explains. “If this differential remains firm at high prices, buyers might try to negotiate and lower the baseline as they hit their ceiling for what they can pay. They may seek out alternatives, which ultimately hurts the producer.

“There are other ways to negotiate contracts which include clauses that, in the event of an upside price swing, the buyer can secure positions as a form of protective insurance to lock in higher prices,” she adds.

Many roasters have expressed their shock at a US $4/lb C price, as it forces them to rethink sourcing strategies and pricing models. Some of the ways they can achieve this are by offering more blends and sourcing from more cost-effective origins, as well as preserving their green coffee beans in optimal conditions to maintain quality and freshness.

Specialty coffee importers also struggle with this shift in the market. Some have filed for bankruptcy, while others have been absorbed by larger players, who can then establish their own specialty divisions for a fraction of the cost.

This inversion of trade dynamics has created tension in the supply chain. If producers default on contracts in favour of higher returns, they can undercut long-term roaster and importer partners. At the same time, many view the price rally as an overdue win for producers who have long struggled with inequity in the value chain.

“Long-term contracts tend to be switched for short-term gains, but this is most common in supply chains without much transparency and trust,” says Bram de Hoog, the founder of producer-owned roasting collective Paso Paso Coffee. “Stronger supply chains with more transparency tend to be more resilient since the benefits are reaped over multiple years.

“There has been a mixed response from producers. Some raise their prices along with the C market, while others make smaller adjustments in order to maintain clients,” he adds. “In general, producers will seek to establish a new ‘base price’ which they can also return to in the future if the market does drop again.” 

Relationships are now more important than ever

As the C price remains high, the gap between commodity and specialty coffee continues to narrow. 

According to a new UN FAO report, it will take almost a year for consumers to feel the effects of price spikes, most of which will impact cheaper coffee sold in supermarkets and convenience stores, for example. The report states that up to 80% of these price rises will trickle down to EU consumers within the next 11 months – and to US consumers in just eight months. It also estimates that the residual effects of these price rises will last for four years.

Bram explains that within the specialty market, coffees scoring 82 to 84 points will be impacted the most, whereas prices for high-end micro lots are likely to stay relatively stable.

This spells a difficult period for roasters, who may transition to more cost-effective coffees to avoid raising their retail prices. It will also affect producers, many of whom grow coffees in the same range.

The specialty and commercial markets have always been somewhat interconnected. So, for the specialty market to continue on its upward trajectory, roasters need to practice what they preach.

“We will see more consolidation in the market than ever, and companies with deep pockets will come out on top,” Bram says. “Coping can only be done by adopting a long-term vision that stays close to your mission.”

In order to survive, specialty coffee brands need to leverage their values and relationships. Maintaining close connections with producers and other origin partners reduces risk and provides stability in a volatile market, which has never been more critical.

A producer holds a bag of roasted coffee on a farm.

The coffee industry is at a turning point, and every supply chain actor needs to adjust accordingly. Volatility has never been more apparent, which means producers, roasters, and traders need to collaborate to mitigate higher levels of risk.

Prices will eventually come down, but these recent weeks have exposed how vulnerable the supply chain is. Looking ahead, those who invest in strong, valuable partnerships will be in the best position to cope.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how high coffee prices could go.

Photo credits: Paso Paso Coffee

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Record coffee futures mean producers are price makers – but it’s complicated appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
How much of an impact does coffee production really have on biodiversity? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2025/02/coffee-production-impact-on-biodiversity/ Mon, 10 Feb 2025 06:42:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=117260 According to the World Resources Institute, Earth lost 3.7 million ha of tropical primary forest land in 2023, which it says is the equivalent of losing almost ten football fields of forest per minute.  On top of emitting 2.4 gigatonnes of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, equal to almost half of the US’ annual fossil […]

The post How much of an impact does coffee production really have on biodiversity? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
According to the World Resources Institute, Earth lost 3.7 million ha of tropical primary forest land in 2023, which it says is the equivalent of losing almost ten football fields of forest per minute

On top of emitting 2.4 gigatonnes of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, equal to almost half of the US’ annual fossil fuel emissions, this level of deforestation is accelerating biodiversity loss at rates never before seen. Natural wilderness (not modified by humans) decreased from 66% in 1937 to 35% in 2020, and the world’s current species extinction rate is estimated by the WWF to be between 1,000 and 10,000 times higher than in pre-industrial times.

Coffee is a key plant in tropical landscapes, but deforestation has been inherent in the supply chain with a historic lack of regulation – prior to the European Union Deforestation Regulations confirmed for December 2025 – and market incentives for high farm productivity. 

Ecosystems in crisis also equate to economic turmoil. Nearly half of the world’s population lives in households linked to agrifood systems, meaning coffee producers can’t escape the impact of market volatility caused by climatic pressures. In early February 2025, coffee prices reached historic highs following global supply shortages and droughts in Brazil – which produces most of the world’s coffee in major biodiversity hotspots. 

I spoke to several people at nature-positive direct trade company Curu Coffee, which offers technical and financial support to smallholders, to find out why safeguarding biodiversity is essential to a sustainable future for coffee.

You may also like our article on why reg ag is trending in specialty coffee.

A Curu Coffee sign on a coffee farm in Brazil.

The dangers of biodiversity loss

Conservation International describes biodiversity as “the variety and variability of life on Earth”. One of the biggest threats to biodiversity is monoculture farming.

Although producing one type of crop on a single farm can improve operational efficiency, research indicates that microclimates and crop yields are more unpredictable on monoculture farms. The risk of disease and pest outbreaks increases due to the lack of other plant and animal species that often limit the spread. The availability of certain nutrients also diminishes in the soil, impacting yields and quality and having devastating consequences for farmers.

“Producers who think they can predict how much coffee they will harvest are increasingly mistaken,” says Neuton Caio Quintino Souza da Silva, a coffee farmer in Brazil. “A dry spell might hit when we’re expecting rain, and increasingly unreliable weather is creating more unreliable harvests.”

Rising temperatures make it harder to forecast production volumes, especially on full-sun farms. The exposed soil dries quicker and loses its nutrient content faster, requiring more fertilisers, pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides, which have become increasingly costly and can pollute the surrounding environment.

Why deforestation is a key issue

In countries like Brazil, the world’s top coffee producer, full-sun coffee production is the dominant method. The open, uncovered farmland means producers often use mechanised harvesters, especially on larger plantations, reducing labour costs and speeding up operations. This incentivises some producers to invest in full-sun production in the long term, but profitability is often short-lived.

“Production rates are falling, and global demand is increasing, driving deforestation to create space to grow more coffee,” says Abigail Baumhardt, the founder of Curu Coffee, which partners with smallholder coffee producers to integrate native trees into their farms. “Forest loss worsens climate change and biodiversity loss, creating a vicious cycle.” 

Deforestation is another contributing factor to the exacerbation of climate change and the rapid decrease in biodiversity. Historically present in the coffee supply chain, more action has been taken to tackle the problem, most notably the EUDR. After a confirmed one-year delay, coffee businesses exporting into the EU will need to prove that their supply chains are deforestation-free from December 2025 onwards.

Some saw the approved delay as a blow to the EU’s green efforts, while others welcomed the extra time to comply with the first-of-its-kind legislation. Either way, the extension reduces the sense of immediacy to tackle a growing problem.

Agroforestry can be a solution

There can be a more positive relationship between coffee production and the local ecosystem, with both supporting each other’s longevity. Crop yields are more reliable on shaded coffee farms, especially during drought periods, and pest and disease outbreaks are less common. 

“Natural predators living in trees and plants control pests, meaning producers don’t need to rely solely on artificial methods,” says Brazilian coffee grower Geraldo Pereira Ramos. In the 25 years that Geraldo has been planting native trees on his farm, which includes 30% shade coverage, he has seen suitable coffee-growing land recede further uphill every year.

“Today, we’re growing at an altitude of over 1,000 MASL (metres above sea level.) This altitude was considered unsuitable for coffee farming thirty years ago,” he adds. “But now, coffee grows better at higher elevations because of climate change.”

The climate crisis is already impacting producers the world over and is poised to exacerbate already worsening conditions. By 2050, the amount of land available to grow high-quality arabica is estimated to halve, threatening the future of the industry as we know it.

“Planting trees on farms can help coffee plants and the climate. Make those trees diverse and native, and then coffee agriculture will help biodiversity and ecosystems and create habitats in the soil and the sky,” Abigail says.   

Most certification bodies, including Rainforest Alliance and Fairtrade, only suggest incorporating native tree species. But by implementing agroforestry systems – where trees and shrubs are integrated into coffee farming – many of the aforementioned challenges can be addressed.

By reducing sun exposure, shade trees can: 

  • Buffer microclimates to reduce significant fluctuations in temperature
  • Increase soil organic content – and thereby fertility – to reduce the need for fertilisers 
  • Increase soil water holding capacity to help during droughts
  • Increase the presence of pollinators and, therefore, plant productivity 
  • Improve ecosystem health to reduce the incidence of pests and diseases
  • Encourage more biodiversity and store significantly more CO2 than monoculture coffee systems

“Coffee naturally has biennial cycles, producing more one year and less the next. With shaded farming, we reduce this biennial effect, resulting in more consistent harvests over the years,” Geraldo says. 

The benefits extend beyond coffee, as shade trees like timber and fruit species can provide additional income sources for farmers, building long-term economic resilience.

Abigail Baumhardt, the founder of coffee biodiversity brand Curu Earth, with a Brazilian producer.

But the transition to regenerative agriculture isn’t easy

Full-sun coffee production is the dominant method because of its short-term high yields, so the trade-off of lower yields for more shade cover can be initially offputting for farmers. 

“Farmers’ livelihoods depend on maximising the financial return on their land. The market that the majority of farmers sell their coffee to rewards intensive monoculture farming the most,” Abigail says.  

Planting shade trees in coffee farms adds complexity in management, labour, and costs.

“With two or three species growing alongside coffee, producers need to manage the additional crops, including pruning and maintenance,” says Ronald baião de Oliveira, an agronomist at Emater Minas Gerais. “Sometimes, producers lack the knowledge or workforce to handle these tasks. 

“Excessive shading could reduce yields, so it’s crucial to maintain pruned trees with sparse canopies to allow enough sunlight for coffee plants to thrive.” 

Agroforestry requires careful planning, such as adequate spacing between trees and the right balance of populations, to avoid competition for nutrients between coffee and other plants.

“There’s a trade-off between biodiversity and coffee yield once you get over around 30% shade cover,” Abigail says. 

Ultimately, farmers need a business case for transitioning to agroforestry systems. The first step towards sustainable coffee production is to establish strong relationships between roasters and producers who are working towards the same goal.

“When we’re partners, everything evolves and improves – for me and them,” Neuton says.  

For producers to uphold their side of the partnership, they need the funds to implement agroforestry practices. Forest farms cost more to maintain, which often isn’t reflected in the prices they receive.

“Financial incentives are the first step to enabling producers to sustain their activities while addressing climate challenges,” Ronald says. “With better economic conditions, producers can improve their quality of life and, in turn, care for their environment. A premium price for coffee could motivate them further.”

The entire supply chain has a responsibility

However, premium prices are only sustainable if consumers are willing to pay them. Consumers are more likely to buy products that support sustainable practices when they understand the environmental impact of their purchases.

“When consumers recognise the value of different farming practices, it motivates others to adopt those methods. Today, many consumers choose products made without regard for environmental impact, including heavy pesticide use,” Geraldo tells me. “If they valued products made with care for the environment, it would incentivise more farmers to adopt sustainable practices.

“For now, differentiated farmers often sell their coffee at the same price as those using pesticides and full-sun methods,” he adds. “However, savings from reduced input costs have already made my production more affordable. Seeing opportunities to sell at differentiated prices motivates me to keep improving.” 

Companies like Curu Coffee, which manages its own supply chains, help farmers adopt forest farming practices.

“Farmers can’t do this without coffee importers, roasters, and drinkers stepping up to support them,” Abigail says. “The more coffee we sell, the more forest farms we can create together with our partner producers.” 

Improving access to new varieties

Shade-adapted coffee varieties are one tool to help producers cultivate coffee sustainably. However, many like Geraldo and Neuton don’t currently have access to these coffees.

“Coffee’s natural habitat is shaded, but genetic modifications over time have prioritised yield over shade tolerance,” Geraldo says. Coffee plants that aren’t inherently shade tolerant can adapt over generations, but climatic pressures don’t grant producers that much time.

While Neuton’s coffee plants perform well, he tells me that other varieties could perform better. “The world keeps advancing, and what we have is becoming outdated,” he says. 

F1 hybrids such as Mundo Maya were developed for high productivity in shade; however, few of them are commercially available. If F1 hybrids were widely accessible, which Curu Coffee is working to achieve, they could help farmers increase productivity in agroforestry systems and improve climate resilience.

Curu Earth, a coffee brand which works to safeguard and improve biodiversity, showcases its products at an event.

Why certifications play an important role

According to PwC’s 2024 Voice of the Consumer survey, over 80% of consumers are willing to pay an average of 9.7% more for sustainably produced goods. To solidify environmental claims and build consumer trust, certifications have emerged as a way to reassure buyers that coffee businesses practice what they preach.

Certifications, however, aren’t a silver bullet that will address declining global biodiversity levels. For an estimated 125 million people, coffee is their livelihood, but they grapple with low wages and harsh labour conditions, meaning they have little money to invest back into their farms. Many certifications are costly to obtain and maintain, excluding producers who may already be carrying out sustainable practices.

Curu Coffee helps farmers achieve agrotoxin-free certifications from Certifica Minas within three years. The certification programme in Brazil, based on economic, social, and environmental criteria for a large scope of crops, also offers organic and SAT certification (for crops grown without agrotoxins like synthetic pesticides, herbicide, and fungicides). Regional government departments carry out the certification process to ensure it complies with national regulations.

Adding value to coffee

Emater Minas Gerais is a technical assistance and rural extension company that works with Certifica Minas. It employs agronomists like Ronald to support producers with technical training and compliance with Brazilian environmental legislation. More importantly, the support and certifications are free.

“Generally, international certifications involve costs for producers, such as auditing and follow-up fees. Certifica Minas, including Emater’s consultancy services and IMA’s audits, are free for family farmers,” Ronald says. “The synergy between the certification and Curu Coffee’s project helps foster greater environmental awareness among producers.

“With this support, producers become more conscious about their environment, including water conservation and waste management. They commit to continuous improvement in economic, social, and environmental aspects.”

Buyers don’t always recognise the effort producers like Neuton put into their coffee, but he says Curu Coffee has offered long-term support to build resilience.

“Curu provides me with tree seedlings, pays a higher price for my coffee, and offers information about the coffee market,” he tells me.

Abigail Blaumhardt, the founder of Curu Earth, which works to safeguard biodiversity on coffee farms, with a Brazilian producer.

Coffee production and biodiversity are inherently linked. With up to 60% of 124 wild coffee species threatened with extinction because of land use change and deforestation, exacerbated by climate change, safeguarding natural ecosystems has never been more pertinent.

With ongoing support, producers can make the transition to agroforestry, supporting biodiversity on their farms and investing in the sustainable future of the industry.

Abigail concludes: “When each stakeholder in the coffee value chain does their part, drinking a cup of coffee becomes a way to make a positive difference.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether coffee production in the Amazon can be sustainable.

Photo credits: Curu Coffee

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: Curu Coffee is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How much of an impact does coffee production really have on biodiversity? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
How is coffee production changing in Cuba? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2024/05/coffee-production-in-cuba-quality-sustainability/ Tue, 21 May 2024 05:25:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=113236 Cuba (or the Republic of Cuba) is the second most populous country in the Caribbean. Considered part of Latin America, the island is located where the northern Caribbean Sea, Gulf of Mexico, and Atlantic Ocean meet. Coffee was first introduced to Cuba around 1748, and quickly became one of its major commodities. Production volumes peaked […]

The post How is coffee production changing in Cuba? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Cuba (or the Republic of Cuba) is the second most populous country in the Caribbean. Considered part of Latin America, the island is located where the northern Caribbean Sea, Gulf of Mexico, and Atlantic Ocean meet.

Coffee was first introduced to Cuba around 1748, and quickly became one of its major commodities. Production volumes peaked in the 1950s, but since then, there has been a significant decline in Cuban coffee production.

To address the challenges which local farmers face, a number of key players are starting to invest more in Cuba’s coffee sector – with a specific focus on quality and sustainability. I spoke to Michele Cannone, Global Brand Director of Away from Home at Lavazza, to find out more.

You may also like our article on exploring Cuba’s coffee farms.

Red coffee cherries on a farm in Cuba.

A brief history of coffee production in Cuba 

Much like many other coffee-producing countries, Cuba’s complex history has had a significant influence on its coffee production.

Between the 15th century and the late 1890s, the island country was under Spanish colonial rule. Although slavery was abolished in Cuba in 1886, the US occupied the island until 1902 – when the country became independent.

During this time period, coffee was first brought to Cuba in 1748 by José Antonio Gelabert, who established the first coffee farm outside of Havana with seeds brought from Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic.

Some 43 years later, French colonial powers arrived in Cuba after fleeing the Haitian Revolution – who introduced more formal farming practices. As well as this, French colonists also established the first coffee farms (or cafetales) in southeast Cuba – which are recognised UNESCO World Heritage sites.

As a result, there was a boom in Cuban coffee production. 

“Coffee production significantly increased during the 19th and early 20th centuries,” Michele says. “In the mid-1950s, total production reached a record of more than 20,000 tonnes per year.”

Production & consumption grow

As coffee became more significant for Cuba’s economy, its coffee culture became more established. By the early 1900s, there were over 150 coffee houses across the island, serving iconic drinks like the café cubano – which are now popular in cities like Miami and Tampa in the US.

However, following the Cuban Revolution in 1959, production declined significantly. Under a new communist government, the country’s agriculture was nationalised – and many coffee farms were entirely replanted with other crops. Furthermore, in 1962, the US placed a trade embargo on all imported goods from Cuba, which meant there were fewer potential buyers for Cuban coffee.

Alongside this, coffee was also rationed. Despite this, coffee has remained a staple of Cuban culture – playing an important role in social spaces.

Producers next to bags of green coffee on a farm in Cuba.

Helping revive the Cuban coffee sector

Despite its complex past, Cuba’s coffee sector has changed in recent years.

Michele tells me the country produced between 9,000 and 11,000 tonnes of coffee in 2022 – with around 1,500 tonnes of arabica exported.

“Arabica accounts for up to 60% of the Cuban-grown coffee market, with robusta comprising the remaining 40%,” he says. “The most common arabica varieties are Isla 6-14 and Isla 6-11 (which are both resistant to la roya, or coffee leaf rust), Bourbon and Caturra Rojo.”

Unfortunately, however, Cuban coffee production hasn’t been able to fully bounce back from the declines which began in the 1950s and 1960s for a number of reasons. However, more recently, we have seen some major changes to the country’s coffee sector.

For example, the Lavazza Foundation works with some 247 producers in the Santiago and Granma provinces to increase coffee quality and yields, as well as improving socioeconomic sustainability. 

Michele tells me while the first phase of the project started in 2018, the second phase began in 2022, with a specific focus on five environmental and social sustainability goals:

  • Forest preservation and improvement of agricultural practices
  • Obtaining organic certification and providing formal training courses
  • Improving Cuban coffee quality 
  • Women and youth empowerment initiatives
  • Improving equity in and shortening the supply chain

“More traditional coffee supply chain models in Cuba included many people with little to no emphasis on transparency,” Michele adds. “One of our goals was to streamline the supply chain to improve resource and value distribution. Our La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Cuba organic espresso blend is a result of these efforts, which contains coffee sourced from communities supported by Lavazza Foundation’s project.”

Preserving biodiversity and promoting sustainable value

Sustainability has been a significant focus in the coffee industry for some time now, and the Cuban coffee sector is no exception to this. In 1959, only 12% of the country had forest coverage related to monocropping. In recent years, however, the country has committed to restoring forests and protecting biodiversity. 

This work has had a tangible result, too – Cuba is ranked fifth on the Sustainable Development Index (SDI), a scale used to measure the ecological efficiency of human development.

Michele explains that Lavazza Foundation’s approach is based on long-term collaboration with producers to support the sustainable development of local coffee-growing communities. He adds that the La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Cuba blend contains coffee grown in protected areas and national parks – such as Parco Nacional Pico Turquino, Parco Nacional Pico Cristal, and Parco Nacional La Gran Piedra.

A cup of Lavazza espresso.

Improving Cuban coffee quality

Although sustainability is integral to improving the Cuban coffee sector, a focus on increasing coffee quality is essential, too. This is also one of the Lavazza Foundation project’s five commitments to revitalise Cuban coffee production.

“Lavazza Foundation and Lavazza’s R&D experts are joining their efforts to improve coffee quality,” Michele explains. These collaborations have also resulted in adoption of new technologies, such as using sensors to monitor environmental factors – including air temperature and humidity, rainfall, wind speed and direction, and soil humidity – which are used to improve farming practices and optimise use of resources.

The Lavazza Foundation also opened 34 training facilities across Cuba to share farming best practices, some of which included techniques used in organic coffee production.

Processing methods

Research has found that post-harvest activities can be responsible for up to 60% of final coffee quality – and processing is an especially important part of this.

“With experimental processing techniques becoming more prevalent in specialty coffee, we have seen more and more producers start using these methods to create unique flavour profiles and improve quality,” Michele tells me.

In Cuba specifically, Lavazza R&D is supporting local producers to implement controlled fermentation processing across their robusta lots. This involves using selected yeasts to enhance complexity and sweetness, as well as creating flavour notes of milk chocolate, almond, and a sweet wine-like aftertaste.

Michele explains the La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Cuba! blend is the brand’s first blend which includes fermented coffee: 65% washed arabica, 25% washed robusta, and 10% robusta which is intentionally fermented for up to 72 hours. He adds that the fermentation process follows a very strict approach which involves constant monitoring of time and temperature to guarantee optimal flavour development.

It’s also important to regulate conditions during the transportation of green coffee as well. As it usually takes between three and four weeks for shipments to reach export destination, temperature and humidity must be constantly monitored in order to preserve quality and freshness. Michele explains that Lavazza installs sensors in shipping containers to track these parameters and optimise coffee quality and flavour.

The growing popularity of controlled fermentation in specialty coffee is becoming difficult to ignore. In fact, Lavazza highlighted its use of these processing methods for the first time at a lecture at World of Coffee Athens 2023 entitled: “Biocubacaffè – an open-air laboratory: A unique model of integration between science and farmers to improve coffee quality and value”.

Farmers collect coffee cherries in Cuba.

What about transparency and traceability? 

In recent years, we’ve seen how much specialty coffee consumers value transparency and traceability. Although there are many ways for coffee companies to focus on both, blockchain technology is one of the most effective tools.

In the context of the coffee sector, blockchain technology can be used to create a shared digital ledger or database that records transactions securely. Essentially, this means the data cannot be changed or deleted once it’s added.

La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Cuba is the first Lavazza product with integrated blockchain traceability,” Michele says. “This solution provides full and transparent information on the coffee’s journey, from field to cup, across all stages of the supply chain.”

Ultimately, leveraging blockchain technology ensures consumers can learn more about the coffee they buy. The information recorded can include:

  • Farm location and size, as well as varieties grown
  • Data about harvest times and climatic conditions
  • Post-harvest processes
  • Shipping information
  • Roast date

Michele explains that customers can scan QR codes on the La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Cuba packaging, as well as visiting the website, to learn more about the coffees in the blend and Lavazza Foundation’s approach to supporting farmers.

Looking to the future

It’s clear that Cuban coffee producers need significant support to improve both quality and yields, but if they receive it, the country’s coffee sector holds plenty of promise. 

Moreover, as the quality of Cuban coffee gradually improves, farmers may be able to sell their coffee to more competitive markets, and thereby increase their income.

At the same time, with a large focus on environmental protection and social sustainability, there is certainly potential for Cuba’s coffee sector to return to a position of success on the global coffee market.

A producer empties a bag of green coffee into a container.

The story of the Cuban coffee sector is one of resilience, adaptation, and revitalisation. Following decades of struggle, with the right level of support, local producers have been able to work in partnership with other stakeholders to improve quality and sustainability.

However, if this is to continue, it’s clear that the sector will need further support from both the public and private sector.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the café Cubano.

Photo credits: Lavazza

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: Lavazza is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How is coffee production changing in Cuba? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
How coffee roasters can successfully comply with European Union deforestation regulations https://perfectdailygrind.com/2024/05/coffee-roasters-traders-comply-european-union-deforestation-regulations/ Mon, 13 May 2024 05:32:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=112912 According to a 2022 United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation study, between 1990 and 2020, approximately 420 million hectares of forest was converted into agricultural land – including for coffee production. Moreover, the FAO’s research also found that imports of these commodities to the European Union market accounted for up to 11% of global deforestation levels. To directly […]

The post How coffee roasters can successfully comply with European Union deforestation regulations appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
According to a 2022 United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation study, between 1990 and 2020, approximately 420 million hectares of forest was converted into agricultural land – including for coffee production. Moreover, the FAO’s research also found that imports of these commodities to the European Union market accounted for up to 11% of global deforestation levels.

To directly address these issues, in June 2023, the European Parliament and the European Council announced the Regulation on Deforestation-Free Products (or EUDR). This new law prohibits European companies – including coffee traders and roasters – from importing commodities from supply chains that include deforestation.

As of December 2024, medium and large-sized companies which import goods into the EU must comply with new standards to prove their supply chains are deforestation free.

To understand the scope of the EUDR and how roasters and traders can successfully comply with its regulations, I spoke to Bruno Dominguez, co-founder of Coolx, and Jean Zuloaga, marketing director of Opce Coffee.

You may also like our article on what the EUDR delays mean for the wider coffee industry.

Farm workers empty coffee cherries into a truck.

What are the implications of EUDR for coffee traders and roasters?

In very simple terms, the EUDR seeks to minimise the European Union’s contribution to global deforestation and biodiversity loss, as well as to reduce its share of global greenhouse gas emissions. Once the new regulations are in force, the EU expects to eradicate at least 32 million tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions per year.

Bruno Dominguez is a co-founder of Coolx – a Spanish start-up that supports coffee importers to meet EUDR standards.

“[For the coffee industry], complying with the EUDR creates several logistical, technological, and economic challenges – both for importers and for their supply chain partners in producing countries,” he tells me. 

As a result, the enforcement of these regulations – which will be mandatory for medium and large companies from December 2024 and smaller companies from June 2025 – has received some backlash

“Information has been more readily available in Europe than in producing countries, which has created concern among many companies that export to the EU,” Bruno adds.

To address these issues, ambassadors of countries including Brazil, Colombia, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, the Ivory Coast, Ghana, Guatemala, Honduras, Indonesia, Mexico, and Peru compiled an open letter to the European Parliament in September 2023. In addition to calling for changes to the legislation, ambassadors encouraged more open dialogue about how to better assist small and medium-sized businesses.

Why compliance is so important

Despite these concerns, Bruno emphasises that regulations are a stark reality, so non-compliance will lead to serious legal consequences for companies that operate within the EU market. Traders and roasters will have to demonstrate that their supply chains have no links to deforestation as of December 2020. If they fail to prove this, companies face fines of up to 4% of their annual turnover, as well as the confiscation of their products.

Bruno adds, however, that there are benefits to this strict legislation.

“Companies need to work closely with their suppliers in coffee-producing countries to comply with regulations, which creates opportunities to strengthen long-term relationships,” he says.

A producer harvests cherries among coffee plants.

How coffee traders and roasters can implement EUDR

Bruno explains some of the EUDR requirements for coffee importers, exporters, and roasters.

“The regulations require companies to geolocate their farms or land where they grow coffee,” he says. “They must also submit a Due Diligence Declaration, so they must have a traceability system in their supply chain. This involves collecting information from producers and other suppliers, as well as extensive data verification.”

Jean Zuloaga is the marketing director of Opce Coffee, which exports coffee from Colombia to Europe. He tells me Opce has already started to comply with EUDR, and adds that the process can be difficult without the right level of support. 

“The challenge for European companies is to make sure they comply with all requirements, which takes time and is costly,” he says. “On the other hand, it’s difficult for producers, especially smallholders, to comply with regulations that don’t consider certain circumstances in Latin America.”

He explains that in Colombia, for example, land is often inherited without legal paperwork. Among several other issues, this can make it challenging for him to obtain the necessary documents for the farms he works with.

“We are also trying to resolve certain social security requirements for farm workers,” Jean adds. “Many of them are hired temporarily and work only during the harvest seasons, while others receive benefits such as housing and food.”

Jean says that to ensure compliance with the EUDR by December 2024, Opce Coffee worked with Coolx to seek advice and support. 

“Coolx helped us to manage navigating how complex the new regulations are,” he says. “The team has been patient enough to understand the reality that Colombian farms face, as well as the different suppliers we work with. What’s more, access to technology has been key to strengthen and streamline our processes.”

What are the EUDR compliance requirements?

First and foremost, it’s important to understand how producers, traders, and roasters are impacted by the EUDR. Bruno explains that because Coolx works across the coffee value chain, he and his team can also acknowledge the challenges these supply chain actors are facing.

He adds that when starting to implement EUDR, coffee imported into the European Union must comply with three essential requirements:

  • Provide verifiable information that the product does not come from deforested areas as of 31 December 2020
  • Verifiably prove that coffee has been produced in accordance with the applicable legislation of the country of origin
    • This includes land use rights, environmental protection, labour rights, human rights, indigenous peoples’ rights, tax, anti-corruption, and trade and customs regulations         
  • Produce a Due Diligence Statement
    • This a document that proves information collection, risk assessment, and risk mitigation have all been properly carried out

Addressing the main challenges

Bruno tells me that for coffee exporters in particular, communicating with and advising producers about why it’s so important to provide data required for the EUDR can be one of the biggest obstacles.

Jean agrees, saying that obtaining certain sets of data can be a demanding task, largely because administrative processes are often not part of many farm workers’ job roles.

Another significant challenge for exporters is to monitor and trace the farms they work with, as it’s absolutely critical to know if there has been any deforestation at any point in the coffee supply chain.

Importers, on the other hand, also face some difficulties. These include forming close relationships with their suppliers, and part of this is understanding their capacity to meet EUDR requirements. 

“If suppliers can’t fully comply with the regulations, importers will need to help and guide them in order to strengthen their relationship,” Jean says.

But perhaps the biggest and most important challenge is to develop a reliable and verifiable centralised data system that allows importers, exporters, and roasters to produce Due Diligence Statements. To tackle this, Coolx has developed several tools which use geolocation technology and artificial intelligence to collect and process information.

“We help to facilitate compliance with EUDR by making it quicker and easier, as well as fostering a closer relationship between importers, exporters, and producers,” Bruno says. “We want to make the process as simple as possible for our clients.”

A coffee farmer picks cherries off a branch.

Taking steps to successfully implement EUDR

Bruno says there is no one-size-fits-all solution to comply with EUDR requirements. 

“Every company has their own specific issues they need to consider,” he says. “Coolx works on an individual basis with each of our clients to focus on their reality, whether in Europe or in a producing country.”

He explains some of the steps that Coolx’s software can assist exporters, importers, and roasters with to guide them through the EUDR compliance process:

  1. To fully understand how EUDR requirements apply to their specific company, such as an exporter at origin or an importer in Europe, as well as the size of their company
  2. To conduct an evaluation of the company and its entire supply chain, according to criteria required by the EUDR
  3. To collect and analyse all the required data, starting with information about deforestation at farm level and the relevant legal information in the countries of origin
  4. Based on this analysis, to reduce any existing risks of deforestation and design mitigation strategies
  5. Submit a Due Diligence Declaration to the European Commission

New opportunities for the coffee industry  

EUDR requirements certainly present some problems for coffee companies, including the risk of losing non-compliant suppliers at origin or being sanctioned for failing to comply with the regulations. The new legislation, however, also unlocks many opportunities.

Both Bruno and Jean agree that the EUDR promotes better traceability throughout the supply chain, and mention that compliant companies have a competitive advantage. Jean points out that these companies can gain access to premium markets that value sustainability – and buyers may be willing to pay higher prices.

Additionally, the EUDR also helps traders, roasters, and producers to develop closer relationships and more effective communication, which will only serve to strengthen long-term partnerships.

Moreover, the new regulations will allow coffee companies to become more innovative. As traders, roasters, and producers all use technology to ensure traceability and prove no deforestation has taken place in their supply chains, they can develop marketing strategies in line with these efforts.

A coffee producer dries cherries on raised beds.

While the implementation of the EUDR has caused some resistance in its early stages, it is an opportunity to make necessary changes to the coffee industry. 

Compliant companies will be able to adapt to other legislation that will surely be required in different markets in the future. In turn, it’s essential to receive the right level of support and advice to achieve success.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on growing sustainability in the coffee supply chain.

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: Coolx is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

Editor’s note: This article was translated from Spanish into English.

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How coffee roasters can successfully comply with European Union deforestation regulations appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Why more coffee producers are choosing to diversify their crops https://perfectdailygrind.com/2024/04/coffee-producers-crop-diversification-organic-farming/ Mon, 15 Apr 2024 05:30:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=112513 For centuries, many producers have been growing coffee with other cash crops for a number of reasons. But in recent years, with climate change, an increasingly volatile market, and growing international competition, coffee farmers have had to explore other ways to diversify. Many producers aren’t able to take on much risk, largely because they are […]

The post Why more coffee producers are choosing to diversify their crops appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
For centuries, many producers have been growing coffee with other cash crops for a number of reasons. But in recent years, with climate change, an increasingly volatile market, and growing international competition, coffee farmers have had to explore other ways to diversify.

Many producers aren’t able to take on much risk, largely because they are already operating at levels that barely allow them to make ends meet. But one of several ways to adapt successfully is crop diversification – a farming practice whereby producers grow different crops that don’t compete for similar nutrients and resources as coffee plants. 

Crop diversification uses techniques such as intercropping, cover cropping, and crop rotation to not only better support local ecosystems, but to also improve farmers’ socioeconomic livelihoods.

So why and how are more coffee producers diversifying their crops? I spoke to Martin Mayorga, founder and CEO of Mayorga Coffee, and Juan Ramón Cruz García, the Nicaragua country manager for Mayorga Coffee, to find out more.

You may also like our article on why relationships are about more than just paying a good price for specialty coffee.

Mayorga Coffee farmer holds chia plants and a bag of chia seeds on a farm.

Why crop diversification is integral to sustainable agriculture

Juan Ramón Cruz García is the Nicaragua country manager for Mayorga Coffee – a coffee roaster with a focus on supporting sustainable organic farming practices and uplifting smallholder producers in Latin America. He explains to me what crop diversification is.

“The practice involves rotating different crops across seasons or years to avoid the pitfalls of monoculture farming,” he says. For context, monoculture farming is the practice of growing one type of crop on a piece of land at any given time. While it does have some benefits, there are certainly drawbacks to these methods – including soil degradation. 

“Given that coffee isn’t a crop that is rotated, Mayorga’s producers seek other methods to diversify,” Juan adds.

Common practices

As more and more consumers demand sustainably-grown coffee, producers are leveraging their knowledge to implement effective farming practices that incorporate crop diversification.

Intercropping is one of them. According to the Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education programme, intercropping “is an all-encompassing term for the practice of growing two or more crops in close proximity – in the same row or bed, or in rows or strips that are close enough for biological interaction”.

There are a number of benefits to intercropping, such as maximising farm productivity and encouraging more efficient use of resources – like water, light, and nutrients. Over time, compared to monoculture farming systems, intercropping can also increase yields and improve plant resiliency to pests and diseases, as well as leading to increased biodiversity (which has its own advantages).

Soil health is essential to producing quality coffee, and crop diversification through intercropping can conserve and improve soil health. Moreover, this sustainable farming technique can reduce soil erosion and increase organic matter, nitrogen fixation, and the availability of phosphorus.

In addition to intercropping, other techniques include planting cover and buffer crops, which provide shade cover and protection from wind, frost, and heat.

Farmers standing in a field of chia plants as part of crop diversification with coffee.

What does crop diversification achieve?

Arguably the most obvious reason to implement crop diversification practices is to improve on-farm sustainability and to increase coffee producers’ resilience to climate change – an issue which has become increasingly hard to ignore.

Martin Mayorga is the founder and CEO of Mayorga Coffee. “Climate change and higher internal costs are affecting a lot of producers’ output,” he tells me. “Being prepared for the impact is an important reality, unfortunately.” 

A growing body of research certainly supports this. In a 2022 National Geographic article, a study found that out of coffee, avocados, and cashews, coffee production will be hit the hardest by rising global temperatures

Unpacking the nexus of issues

It’s not only climate change which is forcing coffee producers to diversify their farming practices, however. An increasingly volatile coffee market has seen the C price reach near-record highs recently, although smallholders are yet to receive more money. As a result, many are turning to other cash crops.

Moreover, with levels of rural-to-urban migration in producing countries on the rise – on top of a growing age gap in coffee farming – it’s becoming more difficult to retain skilled workers on coffee farms.

So for many coffee producers, these complex and interrelated issues raise concerns about a sustainable future for their families and livelihoods. Additionally, devastating outbreaks of diseases like la roya show just how vulnerable global coffee production can be.

“For producers, land is an asset and the goal is to maximise the output of that asset,” Martin says. He tells me that following the 2013 roya plague – which wiped out up to 70% of Latin American coffee farmers’ harvests – Mayorga Coffee worked with producers in northern Nicaragua to plant chia seeds as a means to maintain their income. 

The company initially helped 12 coffee producers incorporate chia into their farmland, but now manages about 840 chia producers in Nicaragua, and has expanded the project to work with other farmers in Paraguay and Mexico to meet rapidly growing demand.

By diversifying their crops, farmers were able to maximise both agricultural efficiency of their land and their financial return, preventing them from abandoning coffee production altogether.

Crop diversification & financial security

Growing several different types of cash crops means producers can diversify their income streams – which is a useful tool to combat low coffee prices and food insecurity.

Juan explains that coffee production alone doesn’t usually help to maximise land productivity or generate steady income. He says this is because coffee is only harvested once per year, and its profitability is based on a volatile C market – so prices often fluctuate and remain low.

Instead, Juan tells me that planting a variety of crops that are adapted to local ecosystems – such as banana, avocado, and timber trees – can yield more product within shorter harvest seasons. 

With the right level of support and resources, crop diversification can help coffee producers to work in harmony with their land, and allow them to become more financially autonomous.

A producer tends to chia plants on their farm.

Crop diversification & organic farming go hand-in-hand

In the context of sustainable agriculture, organic farming is often the most discussed topic. But the crucial role that organic practices play in successful crop diversification is typically overlooked.

Martin reinforces that coffee farmers should consider diversifying their farms and obtaining organic certification at the same time, as both systems are based on similar principles.

“I’m always shocked that organic farming is not the norm because in the next ten to 15 years, producers are going to experience issues with coffee production if they’re not supported to transition,” he says. “If you go to any organic farm, the soil is healthy and moist.

“On conventional farms, however, the soil is dry,” Martin adds. “It’s not providing the plants with any nutrition.”

Obtaining organic certifications

To certify as organic, producers must adhere to a strict set of standards and practices, including:

  • No use of chemical and synthetic fertilisers, pesticides, and herbicides
  • Implementing practices which maintain soil health and biodiversity
  • No spill over of chemicals used for non-organic crops

Although they can be costly, organic certifications come with a number of benefits. Not only can coffee producers prove their commitment to environmental stewardship to traders, roasters, and consumers, but quality and yields can also improve. Moreover, their economic return on investment can increase significantly in the long term – a sentiment that Mayorga Coffee works to support.

“It’s surprising to me how many producers want to get paid more and want to have better output, but they don’t focus on improving soil health,” Martin says. “As an industry, we have forgotten that we’ve asked people who grow our food for to spray chemicals on their own land.

“I personally dismiss any roaster that doesn’t exclusively sell organic coffee when they say they care about producers,” Martin tells me. “I just don’t think we can say that we care about producers when we watch them poison their land, themselves, and their communities.”

For this reason, Mayorga Coffee began selling organic coffee in 1999, and has exclusively sourced certified organic coffee since 2012. Martin explains that the roaster works primarily with co-operatives, but also supports individual producers to receive organic certifications – as well as offering access to agronomic assistance and training to successfully diversify their crops.

A Mayorga Coffee worker holds chia seeds as part of crop diversification with coffee.

How can producers start diversifying their crops?

Transitioning to crop diversification is by no means an easy task, so producers certainly need support from other supply chain actors. Juan tells me that Mayorga Coffee’s direct trade model, for instance, provides smallholder producers with technical assistance, seeds, and access to international buyers.

Mayorga currently focuses on two crop diversification programmes – chia seeds and black beans – with plans to diversify into other crops that will provide better income for producers. Intercropping beans with coffee promotes natural pest control and good soil health, as well as increased productivity, which is why Mayorga decided to help farmers plant both together.

“Coffee producers’ yields and their capacity to generate income more than doubled when growing chia,” Martin says. “Chia production for our producers in Nicaragua increased from one container in 2012 to about 50 in 2023. Company-wide, we’ll move about 170 containers of chia in 2024.” 

Understanding the market for diversified crops can be challenging for many producers. Martin explains it’s important for buyers to understand when their services add more value to a farming community and when they don’t, and that not every attempt at diversifying markets will always work.

Ultimately, keeping up with emerging – yet stable – market trends is important. Martin tells me Mayorga is continually working alongside producers to test new products, such as turmeric and quinoa.

What should producers know beforehand?

Juan suggests that producers should first prioritise determining which farming practices will work best to maintain soil health. Secondly, he says, they should consider which crops the market is demanding, while also balancing highly-valuable crops with those that grow best with coffee. 

Additionally, Juan tells me that cacao, ginger, turmeric, and beans grow well at lower-elevation coffee farms, while chia can grow in full sun areas.

More importantly, however, Martin says buyers shouldn’t encourage producers to plant up-and-coming crops and coffee varieties without substantial backing and support.

“Whatever suggestions we’re making to producers need to be part of a two-way conversation, and an understanding of what it takes and what it’s going to cost,” he adds. “And roasters better be ready to buy and commit.”

Mayorga Coffee farmers take part in a crop diversification programme with chia seeds.

By no means a new concept, crop diversification leverages generations of local and native knowledge to promote biodiversity and bolster producers’ economic stability – leading to a wide range of benefits.

But the transition to adopting and implementing these practices should be done thoroughly and carefully, and with the support of traders and roasters who are committed to building mutually-beneficial relationships.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how crop diversification can counter low coffee prices.

Photo credits: Mayorga Coffee

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: Mayorga Coffee is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Why more coffee producers are choosing to diversify their crops appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
How climate risk management and insurance can help coffee producers https://perfectdailygrind.com/2024/03/climate-change-risk-management-insurance-coffee-producers/ Wed, 20 Mar 2024 06:40:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=112133 The coffee industry is well aware of the impact of climate change on production across the Bean Belt. Over the past few decades, we have seen that climate change has increased global average temperatures and altered rain patterns around the world – which naturally has a huge impact on production and the people who work […]

The post How climate risk management and insurance can help coffee producers appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
The coffee industry is well aware of the impact of climate change on production across the Bean Belt. Over the past few decades, we have seen that climate change has increased global average temperatures and altered rain patterns around the world – which naturally has a huge impact on production and the people who work in the sector.

Many producers are already doing all they can within their means to reduce the environmental impact of their farms. But considering how climate change poses significant threats to the sustainable future of the coffee industry, adaptation and mitigation measures need to extend much further beyond an individual basis.

One of the most effective ways to support coffee producers tackling the climate crisis is climate risk management and insurance. So how exactly do these measures work?

To learn more, I spoke to Philippe Vaast, the Regional Director for Mexico, Central America, and the Andean Countries at CIRAD and a member of the scientific committee for the Association for the Science and Information on Coffee (ASIC).

You may also like our article on using climate-resilient coffee hybrids in Vietnam.

Coffee picker or cafetero at Hacienda Venecia Coffee Farm, Manizales, Colombia

The impact of climate change on coffee production

The continuous effects of the climate crisis on the coffee industry are certainly prevalent. One of the most recent studies published in the journal PLOS Climate in 2023 found that rising temperatures caused by global warming are likely to lead to “ongoing systemic shocks” to coffee production.

Perhaps most obviously, this could mean lower yields and more supply shortages, which would only serve to exacerbate coffee price volatility and put more pressure on producers.

According to Philippe, some of the major risks to coffee production as a result of climate change are:

  • Damage from frost: With more unpredictable weather patterns, coffee plants can die within a matter of hours when exposed to temperatures lower than 0°C (32°F)
  • Heavy rainfall: Storms during the flowering stage can damage delicate flowers and decrease pollination, resulting in lower yields
  • Prolonged dry seasons: Water stress results in premature coffee cherry development, reduced bean size and density, and lower cup quality

Moreover, research has also found that many of the world’s biggest producers of coffee are likely to feel the effects of the climate crisis. As one example of several, some experts estimate that Brazil (the largest grower of coffee in the world) may see up to 75% of its producing regions become “unusable” as a result of rising temperature and shifting rainfall patterns.

From a socioeconomic perspective, climate stressors to coffee production could financially constrain producers – many of whom already live below the poverty line. With smallholders accounting for up to 80% of the world’s producers, a significant proportion of them struggle to adequately support their families and improve their livelihoods already.

Philippe Vaast at the 2023 ASIC.

Investing in climate adaptation and mitigation

When talking about climate change, the terms “adaptation” and “mitigation” come up often. But what do they actually mean?

Climate mitigation is implementing strategic practices to prevent the exacerbation of the effects of climate change – including avoiding and reducing carbon emissions. According to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change, climate adaptation refers to “changes in processes, practices, and structures to moderate potential damages or to benefit from opportunities associated with climate change”.

So how are climate adaptation and mitigation put into practice in the context of coffee production? One of the longstanding mitigation efforts in the coffee industry is minimising or stopping deforestation, while an increasingly common adaptation strategy is “climbing higher” to cooler growing areas. 

Planting shade trees on coffee farms is one of the ways which combines mitigation with adaptation, as trees sequester carbon and increase biodiversity to create more optimal growing conditions for coffee plants.

“By changing their farm management practices, producers can adapt to some extent to climate change,” Philippe says – who spoke on a panel titled Integrating climate risk management and insurance for sustainable coffee production in a changing climate at the 2023 ASIC conference.

“Practices such as agroforestry, irrigation, and using organic fertilisers can be co-developed locally at relatively low costs to help farmers adapt to climate change, and thereby better withstand unpredictable weather patterns,” he adds.

While proper irrigation systems help to combat dry weather, agroforestry management (which includes planting shade trees and intercropping) can buffer the climatic effects within farm microclimates. Producers can also become more self-sufficient by substituting chemical inputs with organic fertilisers and biocontrol agents produced on-farm, along with improving soil health.

Receiving support from the wider industry

As the effects of climate change generally outpace the results of implementing mitigation and adaptation strategies, there has been a greater push within the scientific community to investigate the climate resilience of different coffee varieties and species, as well as to breed stress-tolerant coffee genotypes to prepare for worsening climatic stressors.

In turn, it’s critical that industry professionals along the supply chain lend support to producers.

“With respect to capacity building, farmers need to have access to information and training to apply sustainable agricultural practices,” Philippe explains. “Farmers need financial incentives to stabilise and secure their revenue through premiums paid for certifications and higher prices for growing high-quality coffee.”

He also points out that leveraging indigenous and local knowledge is a key part of successful climate adaptation and mitigation. Carrying out practices such as sequestering carbon and conserving biodiversity must be done in partnership with local and native communities – including selecting species of shade trees and coffee varieties.

Coffee tree seedlings ready for planting.

How climate risk management and insurance support a sustainable future for coffee production

Alongside adaptation and mitigation strategies, climate risk management and insurance are effective ways to provide coffee producers with more security and support in the face of unpredictable weather conditions.

Climate risk insurance is a type of disaster insurance that reduces the financial risk associated with volatile and changing climatic conditions. Insurance can also be an integral part of a wider and more comprehensive climate risk management strategy. This is because in addition to providing financial relief for vulnerable actors in the value chain after a climate disaster, it also helps to collect data on how to minimise and prevent risk.

Data collection can be used to predict climatic conditions, and potentially provide early warnings for more severe events such as frost and intense storms.

During a talk at the 2023 ASIC conference – which took place from 11 to 14 September in Hanoi, Vietnam – Dr. Jarrod Kath explained that when climate risks are too extreme or costly to be managed with adaptation or mitigation measures, climate risk insurance can be used to transfer risk away from vulnerable supply chain actors to the insurer. 

This type of insurance, Dr. Kath said, uses comprehensive assessments to consider climatic risks beyond rainfall and temperature change – providing producers with more protection.

Benefitting the entire supply chain

Plenty of research suggests that the damages of climate change reduce coffee yields and quality, which subsequently negatively affects farmers’ revenue. But effectively, given that the coffee industry wouldn’t exist without producers, this puts the entire supply chain at risk.

“Climate risk insurance is designed to protect coffee farmers, small businesses, and all stakeholders of the coffee value chain,” Philippe says. 

He adds that climate risk insurance is designed to help farmers cope with both short and long-term effects of natural disasters by covering the three major risk areas (frost damage, heavy rainfall, and prolonged dry seasons). 

Moreover, climate risk insurance can range from microinsurance – such as for property and crops – to much larger-scale catastrophe coverage, meaning producers and farms of different sizes can minimise risk.

Panel at the 2023 Association for the Science and Information on Coffee conference.

Not only does climate risk management and insurance protect producers and their crops by maintaining coffee quality and yields, but it helps to improve their financial security, too.

Climate change is certainly a very real threat to the coffee industry, but by implementing these measures, we can collectively work together to build a more sustainable and resilient coffee sector.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how coffee producers can adapt to climate change.

Photo credits: ASIC

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: ASIC is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How climate risk management and insurance can help coffee producers appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Why it’s easier for wealthier producers to grow specialty coffee https://perfectdailygrind.com/2024/01/wealthier-producers-specialty-coffee-smallholders-challenges/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 06:28:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=111300 It takes money – and sometimes a lot – to grow specialty coffee. Producers not only need to continuously maintain and improve quality and yields, but they also have to invest back into their farms. Whether it’s replacing equipment and machinery or planting more resilient varieties, producers need to turn a profit to operate their […]

The post Why it’s easier for wealthier producers to grow specialty coffee appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
It takes money – and sometimes a lot – to grow specialty coffee. Producers not only need to continuously maintain and improve quality and yields, but they also have to invest back into their farms. Whether it’s replacing equipment and machinery or planting more resilient varieties, producers need to turn a profit to operate their farms as successfully as possible.

For many of the 12.5 million smallholder coffee farming families in the world, this can be challenging to say the least. Despite being responsible for up to 80% of the world’s coffee supply, it’s estimated that up to 80% of these families live below the poverty line. Resultantly, investing back into their farms to grow higher-quality coffee can be impossible, which puts them at a clear disadvantage.

So it’s then a fair statement to make that it’s much easier for more economically advantaged producers to grow specialty coffee. But what impact does this have on the industry and how can we improve market access for smallholders?

To explore this topic further, I spoke to Ted Fischer, author of Making Better Coffee, and Chad Trewick, head of green coffee at Azahar Coffee Company.

You may also like our article on why more producers don’t market their coffee.

A coffee farmer harvests coffee cherries from a tree.

Understanding wealth disparity in coffee production

Coffee farms are businesses, and therefore need to make money to operate. But given that there is no strict market regulation for the price of specialty coffee, the amount paid to different producers can vary significantly.

Take, for instance, the C price, which is the trading price of commodity-grade arabica on the Intercontinental Exchange – a major commodities exchange based in New York City. At the most basic level, the C price is determined by supply and demand, so it is in constant fluctuation. As of late January 2024, the C price sits just under US $2/lb.

The price of specialty coffee is linked to the C market, but usually with an additional premium – which can range vastly.

One of the most recent (and extreme) examples is the 2023 Best of Panama auction, when a 96.5 point washed Gesha from Carmen Estates received a staggering bid of US $4,500/lb ($10,005/kg). 

This is quite an exceptional case, of course, and shouldn’t be compared to the C price in any real terms. Considering, however, that the International Trade Centre’s Coffee Exporter’s Guide estimates most producers retain around 10% of the retail coffee price, this equates to about US $0.40 per cup – if we assume most coffee shops charge around US $4 per cup of filter coffee.

For many, it’s difficult to reconcile the fact that while some farmers received thousands of dollars at auctions for small amounts of coffee, many others live below the poverty line. 

Can we easily explain these inequities?

Ted Fischer is a professor of Anthropology at Vanderbilt University in Tennessee. His book, Making Better Coffee, focuses largely on how indigenous Maya coffee farmers play an integral role in Guatemalan coffee production.

While he acknowledges the topic is incredibly complex and hard to fully unpack, he tells me that heritage and succession play a big role.

“In countries like Guatemala and other parts of Latin America, the wealthier farms tend to be those who have been operating for a much longer time,” he says.

The disparity also links back to colonial trade models. During the 1700s and 1800s, European colonial powers established the mass production and global trade of coffee, and retained the vast majority of wealth for themselves – while paying very little to no wages to farm workers.

Although colonial structures and dynamics are deeply ingrained in the coffee sector, the way coffee is traded has thankfully changed for the better over the last few decades, with a much bigger focus on direct trade and paying “fairer” prices. 

However, when respective producing countries gained their independence and European colonial powers abandoned coffee production, it inherently meant there was a lot of inequity and disparity between different farms.

The reasons for this can vary widely – from location of the farm (i.e. higher altitudes often result in higher-quality coffee) to access to capital to knowledge of how the market operates.

“If producers have enough resources to be innovative and entrepreneurial, and have the capacity to experiment with different varieties and processing methods, then they can invest time and money into specialty coffee production,” Ted says.

“Smallholders can certainly produce great coffees,” he adds. “But more often than not, well-established, medium-sized farms have the resources to tap into these new markets.”

Farm workers harvest ripe cherries on a farm.

How does the wealth gap form?

Wealth inequality is a complex and intersectional issue that affects many societies and industries. One of the main contributing factors is that having money in the first place simply makes it easier to accumulate even more wealth, as well as improving access to investment opportunities, capital, industry networks, and education.

Moreover, being more financially secure means producers can often afford to try out new farming practices or plant new varieties – and bear the economic burden if their efforts aren’t successful.

In the specialty coffee industry in particular, “success” for producers is mostly determined by constantly evolving quality standards – which are largely established by consumer markets in the first place. To keep up, producers need to continuously innovate, operate efficiently, and, most importantly, gain access to different markets.

“To achieve all of this, you need resources beyond just making ends meet day-to-day, which can be a real struggle for some small-scale producers,” Ted says.

What’s more, accessing financial support and capital can be a challenge for smallholders, who are more likely to lack the necessary collateral to secure loans from banks. And if they are able to receive loans, they can often come with higher interest rates – which can worsen their financial situation in the long run.

Chad Trewick oversees Azahar Coffee Company’s green coffee sourcing operations – a company which focuses on paying Colombian producers stable prices for their coffee. 

“Producers with fewer resources face strategic disadvantages in many ways,” he tells me. “If they have to cut back on important inputs for their coffee production, they will see lower yields, which keeps them stuck in a cycle of poverty. 

“Without access to ongoing training and support for adopting new and innovative farming practices, they miss out on opportunities to improve coffee quality and farm efficiency,” he adds.

Building better networks

As well as focusing on quality, the specialty coffee industry places a lot of value and importance on building personal connections. 

Although it’s largely the responsibility of roasters to share information about coffee production with consumers, there’s also an expectation for producers to establish long-term relationships with roasters, too. Additionally, attending industry events and hosting farm visits can be hugely beneficial for producers, but only a small number will have the financial resources and facilities to do so.

“Gaining access to different target markets and understanding demand and consumer preferences by attending events and expos puts some producers at a significant advantage,” Chad says. “The knowledge gained from these experiences can lead to greater success in the industry.”

A Kenyan coffee farmer stands alongside one of their coffee trees.

Why improving market access for smallholders is so important

Specialty coffee prides itself on championing transparency, traceability, and sustainability. A big part of this is establishing genuine connections with producers and farms of all sizes.

“The current market structure, however, makes it challenging for those who grow smaller quantities of coffee to engage with specialty roasters,” Ted explains.

One of many approaches to improve market access is to minimise the number of intermediaries in the supply chain. These are people who carry out a number of tasks in producing countries, such as:

  • Transporting coffee (whether as cherry or parchment)
  • Milling
  • Exporting green coffee

Intermediaries do play an important role in the industry – and can even benefit producers in many ways. Their presence in the supply chain, however, can often mean that producers end up receiving a smaller percentage of the final price for their coffee.

In theory, by streamlining the supply chain, smallholders can add more value to their coffee and potentially develop closer relationships with traders and roasters. But if producers don’t have the resources and infrastructure to mill and export their coffee in the first place then working with intermediaries is a necessity.

Alternative trade models

Co-operatives are another viable solution. Essentially, a coffee co-operative is a group of producers who join together to collectively improve their access to a number of resources. These can include fertilisers, farming tools, seeds, and loans. 

Moreover, producers can also take part in formal training programmes and can leverage better marketing and business opportunities. In theory, this can help them to receive higher prices for their coffee, or improve stability by committing to selling a larger volume of coffee on a repeat basis.

Although this model has received some criticism in recent years (including the potential to reduce coffee quality), when well-managed, co-operatives offer a number of benefits to members – especially smallholders who own smaller parcels of land.

Two types of coffee processing methods demonstrated side by side.

It’s a harsh reality that more economically advantaged producers inherently have better access to resources, capital, and new markets – and therefore can more easily grow specialty coffee.

But that doesn’t mean the industry shouldn’t do more to support smallholders. By bridging the wealth gap in coffee production, we can take steps towards a truly sustainable supply chain.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether consumers actually want to be more connected to producers.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Why it’s easier for wealthier producers to grow specialty coffee appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Medium-sized farms play an important role in specialty coffee https://perfectdailygrind.com/2024/01/medium-farms-specialty-coffee/ Tue, 23 Jan 2024 07:40:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=111132 For many consumers and industry professionals, specialty coffee and direct trade are inextricably linked. Building strong and mutually beneficial working relationships between producers and roasters is often seen as a cornerstone of establishing a truly sustainable supply chain. So with this association between specialty coffee and direct trade, there can be a narrative of smaller-sized […]

The post Medium-sized farms play an important role in specialty coffee appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
For many consumers and industry professionals, specialty coffee and direct trade are inextricably linked. Building strong and mutually beneficial working relationships between producers and roasters is often seen as a cornerstone of establishing a truly sustainable supply chain.

So with this association between specialty coffee and direct trade, there can be a narrative of smaller-sized roasters forging long-term partnerships with smallholder producers to work closely together. Simultaneously, farmers require capital and resources to grow specialty coffee, so larger farms often have more capacity to invest in improving quality and yields.

Both of these examples are certainly true – with small and large farms playing a huge role in the global production of specialty coffee. So where does that leave medium-sized coffee producers?

To learn more, I spoke with Ana Sofía Narvaez, Relationship Builder at Caravela Coffee. Read on to find out what she had to share about the importance of medium-sized farms in specialty coffee.

You may also like our article on the reality of producing specialty coffee on very small farms.

A rake sits on top of dried green coffee.

How can we define a medium-sized coffee farm?

Categorising coffee farms of different sizes can be challenging. When it comes to smaller farms, it’s universally agreed that producers who farm areas smaller than five hectares can be defined as smallholders. This term accounts for around 95% of the world’s 12.5 million coffee farming families which contribute to 67% of global production.

Regarding areas of land larger than five hectares, however, it becomes more difficult to pinpoint exactly what size the farms are. Ultimately, it depends on the origin country itself, as scale of production is an important defining factor.

“A producer in Brazil who has a 25 ha farm is probably considered small scale,” Ana says, who is the Customer Relations Manager at Doselva – an organic spice company operating in Central America. “But in the context of Nicaragua, a farm of that size is medium. 

“However, in the context of the same country, a producer with a 200 ha farm might think that a 25 ha farm is small,” she adds.

Another useful indicator of farm size is whether a producer carries out their own post-harvest processing practices on site, including:

  • Processing (such as washed, natural, honey, or more advanced techniques) and drying
  • Wet milling (removing the seeds from the flesh of the coffee cherry)
  • Dry milling (removing the parchment from the beans)
  • Hulling, grading, and sorting 

Some smaller-scale producers may own or use micro mills, or alternatively transport their cherry to larger facilities to be processed by a third party. Medium and larger-sized farms, meanwhile, are more likely to operate or have access to bigger facilities which process and mill higher volumes of coffee.

Geographical context is still important here, however. Ana tells me that in Central America, for instance, many producers process their own coffee regardless of farm size.

Caravela Coffee employee inspects coffee plants with a farm worker.

Where do these farms “fit” into specialty coffee?

First and foremost, it’s incredibly important to emphasise that every farm that grows coffee scoring 80 points or over has a place in the specialty coffee industry – no matter its size or whether it processes its own coffee.

Specialty coffee often focuses primarily on smallholders – and rightly so. According to TechnoServe, more than 80% of the world’s 12.5 million coffee smallholder families live below the poverty line. Developing more long term, resilient relationships with and buying more coffee from these producers is an important step to improving their income, and thereby supporting them to increase quality and yields.

Meanwhile, it’s usually easier to see where larger farms can fit into specialty coffee. As these producers are considerably more likely to have more resources to hand and better access to capital, they can often invest more into improving the quality – or even trying new and advanced processing techniques more successfully with certain lots.

“In my experience, a producer who has a well-structured processing and drying station has a better chance of maintaining consistent quality standards with larger volumes of coffee sold as either commercial or specialty – depending on the market they operate in,” Ana tells me.

The level of coffee quality is ultimately dependent on each farm, its business goals, and access to resources and finance – so size can play an important role.

“Processing methods, weather conditions and terrain, access to technology, implementing best practices, and available varieties all need to be accounted for as well,” Ana adds. 

Given that they will have more staff, medium and larger-sized farms are more likely to be able to control and manage these different variables more effectively – and thereby increase the volumes of specialty coffee they produce.

The ultra-premium market

Producers looking to enter the ultra-premium coffee market have to continuously innovate – whether it’s honing their processing methods or planting rare varieties. Trial and error is an essential aspect of this, alongside developing a thorough understanding of farming best practices.

Innovation, however, is an investment that not all producers can afford to carry out. Compared to other businesses in the supply chain, producers don’t typically hold much capital at any given time – especially smallholder farmers. This can mean that the risk of not recouping investment is much higher for smaller-sized farms.

Medium and larger-sized farms, conversely, sell more coffee based purely on their size. In turn, they are likely to generate more money and turn a profit to invest back into their businesses – providing them with more leverage to sell coffee in the ultra-premium market.

For producers looking to market their coffees to more high-end buyers, this can be one of the most effective methods. However, medium and larger-sized farms will still inevitably grow low 80-point coffees (or even below this score), which often make up a large portion of their total production volumes.

Green leaves of a coffee plant on a farm.

The advantages of buying coffee from medium-sized farms

There are, of course, benefits to sourcing coffee from farms of any size, but medium and larger-sized producers will naturally sell higher volumes – and potentially a wider variety of coffees, including different varieties and processing methods. 

“These producers may also have more streamlined operations and have greater control over production costs,” Ana tells me. “They can also have better access to financing and credit for coffee production, and may have greater bargaining power when selling their coffee.”

Medium and larger-sized farms can, in theory, also implement changes to their farming practices more efficiently. The task may be too challenging (or even impossible) for some smallholders who have less access to capital, especially those who can’t risk a drop in quality or yields.

That’s not to say, however, that managing larger farms and bigger workforces isn’t difficult, too. With higher production volumes, producers need to hire more employees – including seasonal pickers – which requires more training and investment.

A coffee farm worker holding a rake.

No matter its size, every individual coffee farm will experience its own unique challenges and advantages. And to best support the specialty coffee industry, roasters should endeavour to source coffee from a variety of producers.

But given the focus on smallholders and larger coffee farms, it can be easy to forget that medium-sized producers play an integral role in specialty coffee, too.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how we can improve access to finance for smallholder coffee farmers.

Photo credits: Caravela Coffee

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Medium-sized farms play an important role in specialty coffee appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Why do some coffee plants produce pink flowers? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2023/11/pink-coffee-flowers/ Thu, 09 Nov 2023 06:25:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=109335 For the millions of farmers around the world, the emergence of fragrant flowers on coffee plants marks one of the most important stages of the production cycle. The timing of blooming varies between producing countries, but it’s inevitably a key indicator of potential productivity for the season ahead. Most of us are familiar with the […]

The post Why do some coffee plants produce pink flowers? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
For the millions of farmers around the world, the emergence of fragrant flowers on coffee plants marks one of the most important stages of the production cycle. The timing of blooming varies between producing countries, but it’s inevitably a key indicator of potential productivity for the season ahead.

Most of us are familiar with the white jasmine-scented flowers. In some rare cases, however, coffee plants produce pink flowers. There are a number of reasons for this striking difference, but what are they?

To find out, I spoke to Oliveiro Guerreiro Filho, a genetic and plant breeding expert at the Instituto Agronômico de Campinas, Juan Diego de la Cerva, owner of Finca El Socorro, and Tommaso Bongini, head roaster at Gearbox Coffee Roasters.

You may also like our article exploring why coffee plants flower and what it means for producers.

White coffee blossoms on a coffee tree on a farm.

The genetic diversity of coffee flowers

“As a general rule, coffee flowers are white,” Oliveiro says. “There are some genetic variations, including the number of petals and stamens, as well as the shape of the corolla tube.”

Sometimes, however, certain coffee species and varieties bear pink flowers. Oliveiro says that while this is relatively uncommon, it occurs because of two main reasons:

  • The result of inherent, natural genetic variations. This is especially true for certain species and varieties, including Coffea racemosa and Aramosa
  • The product of a spontaneous gene mutation known as “purpurascens”

“With purpurascens-afflicted coffee plants, young and adult leaves – as well as new stems and stipules – are purplish in colour,” Oliveiro explains. 

Comparatively, when coffee plants consistently reproduce purpurascens characteristics from one generation to the next, many producers classify and treat them as separate varieties. Botanists, meanwhile, classify them as cultivars. This is because they have been intentionally propagated to preserve their more unique characteristics.

“Purpurascens coffee flowers are pink because their gene expression affects the colour of the whole plant and not just the flowers, as opposed to the natural genetic make-up of coffee varieties that makes them produce pink flowers,” Oliveiro tells me. “For the latter, just the flowers are pink – not the leaves, stems, and stipules.”

A butterfly sits among pink blossoms on a tree.

What causes the purpurascens mutation?

Oliveiro explains how the mutation can occur in certain Coffea species – including arabica, robusta (or canephora), liberica, and racemosa.

“A gene can have several alleles,” he tells me. “The gene is a part of the DNA or RNA that controls a certain characteristic, such as the pink colour of flowers, while the allele is the specific variation of the gene, which will determine how this characteristic will be expressed.

“So the purpurascens phenotype is a genetic mutation in the chromosome DNA sequence of coffee plants,” he adds.

While this doesn’t prevent the normal formation of leaf tissue, it can be passed down to future generations – meaning it’s possible for more plants to produce pink flowers.

Throughout his studies, Oliveiro has noted that coffee plants with the purpurascens mutation have lower yields, but are just as susceptible to pests and diseases as non-affected coffee plants.

Which species & varieties typically produce pink flowers?

Over the years, producers and researchers have reported countless instances of coffee plants producing pink flowers. Oliveiro adds that in some former English colonies, these plants are known as “orange coffee”.

Additionally, in Indonesia, these plants are called Koppi wengue, while in Brazil, farmers typically refer to them as “purple coffee” or “café carangola”.

The first scientifically recorded purpurascens-mutated coffee was discovered in Java, Indonesia in the early 1900s, which was identified as a mutation of Typica.

Aramosa coffee

The Aramosa variety is a natural hybrid of the arabica and racemosa species, and typically has a low caffeine content. Originating from Mozambique, Coffea racemosa is one of the oldest species, and was first introduced to producers in Brazil in 1954. 

Aramosa plants are fairly robust and resistant, even to harsher weather conditions. When ripe, its fruits are purplish red, while the flowers are rose pink in colour.

The Finca El Socorro “Purpuracea” variety

When the mother originates from an arabica plant, it is easier to crossbreed spontaneous purpurascens varieties. However, the genes that determine the colour of the flowers are recessive – which means the dominant gene will express itself more.

One example is Purpuracea – a variety grown by Juan Diego de la Cerva, who is a Guatemalan producer and the owner of Finca El Socorro.

Juan Diego explains that in 2009, some of his Maracaturra seedlings had purple leaves, so he and his team decided to plant them on a separate lot.

“After a while, we noticed their morphology was very different, with lower yields compared to the Maracaturra mother,” he says. 

During an initial tasting, Juan Diego says the cup profile was excellent – and even consistently received over 90 points at various cuppings. He then decided to grow the Purpuracea variety on a commercial scale using rootstock grafting techniques

In 2007, 2011, and 2020, Finca El Socorro’s Purpuracea went on to win the Cup of Excellence Guatemala competition – a clear sign of quality.

“At the moment, we don’t intend to publicise the genetic make-up of these plants,” Juan Diego says. “This is something unique that we want to preserve as exclusive to our farm.”

A butterfly searches for nectar among pink blossoms.

What does Purpuracea coffee taste like?

Tommaso is also the head roaster at Gearbox Coffee Roasters in Florence, Italy. The company has sourced Juan Diego’s Purpuracea since 2019. 

“We have purchased fully-washed Purpuracea coffee, which has a tremendous and persistent acidity, good body, and complexity,” he explains. 

Following this, Tommaso asked Juan Diego to use natural processing methods.

“The result was way beyond expectation: a more enhanced body than the washed coffee, and a great acidity that went from citric to malic and acetic,” he adds. 

Common tasting notes for washed Purpuracea include blackcurrant, ripe plum, and lychee, while the natural processed coffee has notes of plum, cotton candy, poached pear, and green tea.

“It’s a unique coffee and therefore costs more,” Tommaso says. “But it’s worth it.”

Pink coffee flowers on a tree on a coffee farm.

Most producers have probably never seen pink flowers on coffee plants – and may never encounter them. While natural mutations can certainly occur, it’s very rare to come across pink flowers on coffee farms.

However, lesser-known coffees – like Juan Diego’s Purpuracea – show strong potential in the specialty coffee market, which increasingly values rare and unconventional species and varieties. 

And as producers and researchers continue to develop hybrid plants, there’s the chance that we could see more pink-flowering coffee varieties in future.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how specialty coffee producers can use coffee flowers.

Photo credits: IAC, Finca El Salvador

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Why do some coffee plants produce pink flowers? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Why cherry sorting is essential to improving coffee quality https://perfectdailygrind.com/2023/11/coffee-cherry-sorting/ Mon, 06 Nov 2023 06:13:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=109301 Growing high-quality coffee requires great skill and attention to detail. Beyond implementing farming best practices, harvesting and sorting cherries are essential parts of the process. Many farms choose to manually pick and sort cherries, with some even having no option but to harvest them by hand. These methods, however, can be laborious and time-consuming, and […]

The post Why cherry sorting is essential to improving coffee quality appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Growing high-quality coffee requires great skill and attention to detail. Beyond implementing farming best practices, harvesting and sorting cherries are essential parts of the process.

Many farms choose to manually pick and sort cherries, with some even having no option but to harvest them by hand. These methods, however, can be laborious and time-consuming, and often lead to higher costs for producers.

As a result, some coffee farmers are turning to mechanised solutions to harvest and sort cherries – and thereby improve coffee quality. 

To learn more, I spoke to Carlos Henrique Palini, commercial director at Palinialves, and Felipe Fernandes Vilhena Faleiros, operational manager at Eldorado Specialty Coffees.

You may also like our article on the anatomy of a coffee cherry.

A farm worker harvests crops in Latin America.

How do pickers harvest and sort cherries?

Harvesting and sorting cherries are two essential steps in coffee production. Farm workers can use several different methods to do both – including manual, semi-mechanised, and fully mechanised.

Carlos works at Palinialves, a Brazilian agricultural equipment manufacturer. He explains that cherry ripeness is a key factor in all three harvesting and sorting techniques.

“You need to pick coffee cherries at the most optimal stage of ripeness and uniformity, with a higher percentage of ripe fruits, or red cherries,” he says.

Selective picking helps coffee farms to do this. Labourers harvest only the ripest cherries by hand, which helps to improve quality and increase sweeter and more complex flavours. This method, however, is very labour-intensive.

Some farms, meanwhile, will use hand strip picking. This is when labourers harvest all the cherries off branches by hand.

Mechanised harvesting methods

One of the most common semi-mechanised harvesting techniques is when farm workers use hand-held tools called derricadeiras to shake and strip cherries off branches. The cherries then fall onto tarps placed below the plants to make collecting them easier.

Felipe works at Eldorado Specialty Coffees – a group of farms in Brazil. He says their producers wait for cherries to reach around 75% full ripeness before harvesting them using mechanised systems.

On larger farms located on flatter terrain – like in Brazil, for example – producers will use specialist machinery to strip pick cherries. Labourers drive large mechanical harvesters which have vibrating, rotating rods to shake cherries loose that pickers then collect in containers.

Whether done by hand or machine, strip picking can save time and money, but removing unripe cherries from the harvested lots can be arduous.

During harvesting, it’s common for pickers to also remove both underripe and overripe cherries, as well as ripe ones. The first two must be removed to maintain coffee quality.

“Through post-harvest processing, you separate the ripe cherries,” Carlos explains. “This improves the uniformity of ripeness to increase quality.”

Processing green coffee cherries at a coffee factory.

What about sorting coffee cherries?

Carlos tells me the process of sorting cherries involves various pieces of equipment and several techniques to achieve optimal ripeness. Many farms will start by placing harvested cherries on a tarp, and removing any unripe ones. Others will use automated systems to sort cherries by size, colour, and density. 

In certain cases, cherries are placed in water tanks. This is to identify any defective, underdeveloped, or overripe cherries, which will float to the surface and are then removed. 

Following this, farm workers will visually inspect the coffee while it dries on raised beds or patios to identify and remove any damaged, insect-infested, discoloured, or underripe beans.

After a drying period of around two months, producers will use a density sorter and gravity separator to distinguish between high-density and low-density beans. Denser beans are typically considered to be higher quality, and often sell for higher prices.

Finally, the green beans are sorted by colour to remove any defective beans – either by hand or using sensor machines. This step is crucial to ensure the coffee meets specialty-grade standards.

Problems associated with manual sorting methods

Although manual coffee sorting can assist with quality control, this method is usually very time-consuming and isn’t always the most accurate. 

“Because of the size of our farms and the volume of coffee harvested daily, sorting cherries manually is inefficient and costly,” Felipe says.

It can take hours for a team of people to meticulously sort cherries by hand. The longer this process goes on, the more likely it is that cherries will overripen and spoil. Selective picking can take even longer as not all cherries mature at the same rate, so labourers need to harvest multiple times.

To increase productivity, coffee farms must also employ large teams, so costs can quickly add up.

“Most coffee-producing regions in Brazil, however, currently suffer from labour shortages,” Felipe explains. This leads to a number of issues, including overripe cherries and inadequately sorted coffee – ultimately resulting in lower yields and profit losses.

Additionally, pickers often rely on colour alone as an efficient way to assess ripeness levels, but this process can be subjective. Moreover, sorting yellow cherries can be especially challenging because it’s more difficult to know when they have reached optimal ripeness.

“Manual sorting is an even bigger challenge for larger producers because they have more extensive planted areas and a higher volume of coffee at different stages of ripeness, which results in even greater non-uniformity,” Carlos tells me. “In turn, larger farms require more robust post-harvest infrastructure to separate and sort coffee cherries.”

A farm worker hold unripe and ripe cherries next to a Palinialves optical sorting machine.

Increasing use of mechanised sorting systems

For producers who have the means and resources to decide, they must weigh up the pros and cons of manual and mechanised sorting solutions. But as it becomes more challenging to find a stable workforce every year in some producing countries, an increasing number of farms have started to rely more on automated solutions. 

One of these is Palinialves’ FullSelect optical sorter – which will be showcased at the company’s booth at the 2023 International Coffee Week event in Belo Horizonte, Brazil from 8 to 10 November.

Carlos explains how the machine works.

“The FullSelect is an electronic optical sorter that separates coffee cherries based on colour,” he says. “Farm workers feed harvested cherries (which are at various stages of ripeness) through a hopper. They are transported on a conveyor belt to the optical sorting machine.

“The machine uses high-resolution cameras to take photos of the cherries and distinguishes them by colour sensitivity,” he adds. “For instance, red or yellow cherries are accepted, while green and black ones are rejected.”

When the FullSelect identifies defective cherries, a stream of high-precision compressed air moves and separates them from ripe ones.

“The optical sorter also includes a set of full-colour cameras that can detect green coffee in ripe red cherries,” Felipe tells me. “These cameras are very sensitive and can sort cherries based on subtle differences in colour tone with a high level of precision.”

When would manual sorting methods work better?

It’s important to note that not all farmers need to use mechanised harvesting or sorting machines. For example, it’s potentially more cost effective for smallholder farmers who grow coffee across one or two hectares to harvest and sort cherries by hand – mostly because they produce smaller volumes of coffee.

Additionally, some farms may be located at higher altitudes or on more mountainous terrain, which makes it difficult to operate harvesting machines. But more importantly, some producers may not have the capital or access to loans to invest in these solutions.

Washing harvested fruit using machinery.

How can sorting machines benefit producers?

Of course the most obvious advantage to using mechanised sorting solutions is saving both time and money. Instead of meticulously sorting cherries by hand, producers can use machines and focus on other areas of their farm.

“Mechanised sorters like the FullSelect are much more reliable than manual methods, and allow me to free up more of my time,” Felipe explains.

Using these machines can also increase production volumes more effectively.

“Manual sorting methods often have high operational costs, but result in lower yields,” Carlos tells me. “Optical sorters can process between 6,000 and 10,000kg of coffee cherries per hour, which is significantly higher than the volume pickers can sort by hand.”

Carlos adds that sorting machines also offer several other benefits for producers, particularly those focused on growing higher-quality coffee.

Palnialves’ FullSelect machine, for example, can sort high volumes of cherries efficiently and precisely,” Carlos says. “Producers can then process only the ripest cherries, and thereby elevate overall quality.” 

A bigger focus on quality

For producers who have the resources to invest in mechanised sorting solutions, post-harvest processing methods can become more accessible and streamlined.

“The FullSelect machine is straightforward to operate, and can be configured using an intuitive touchscreen panel,” Carlos explains. “It also features automatic sensitivity adjustment.”

Additionally, this more advanced technology means farmers can dedicate more time and energy to other aspects of their business to improve coffee quality even further.

“With using mechanised sorters, I’m assured that I’m only processing red ripe cherries with no defects,” Felipe concludes.

A coffee worker handles green coffee cherry on a farm.

From planting seeds to implementing various processing methods, producers who grow high-quality coffee certainly don’t overlook any step of the process. As part of this, many farmers around the world rely on manual harvesting and sorting methods – with some having no choice but to. 

At the same time, however, it seems more producers have started to see the benefits of using mechanised sorting solutions. For coffee farms who have the infrastructure and resources to invest in these machines, they can provide a wide range of benefits. 

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on identifying and improving cherry ripeness.

Photo credits: Palinialves

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: Palinialves is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Why cherry sorting is essential to improving coffee quality appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>