Co-fermented coffees are still divisive, but they are becoming an increasingly bigger part of specialty coffee. Appearing at more trade shows and on café menus, it’s clear that some industry professionals and consumers are embracing these processing innovations.

As they diversify and become their own category, similar to how we classify different processing methods, the need to formally define co-fermented coffees emerges – especially as confusion persists with infusion processing methods.

There are certain similarities between co-ferments and yeast-inoculated coffees. Both involve using external organic substrates and compounds to produce flavours that terroir alone can’t create; yet, the former is sometimes perceived as more “artificial.”

To distinguish between the two and understand why negative perceptions persist, I spoke to Marty Pollack at Torch Coffee and Diego Robelo at Aquiares Estate.

You may also like our article on why co-fermented coffees are becoming a category of their own.

Interest in new processing methods rises

The demand for “funky” tasting coffees is increasing, especially among younger generations and coffee markets in East Asia and the Middle East, where fermented flavours are popular and rarity or exclusivity are highly prized.

Producers then had an opportunity to capitalise on this demand. Experimental and advanced processing methods enable them to develop specific sensory profiles with more interesting and prominent flavour notes. Moreover, novel processing techniques can increase cup scores by a few points, meaning farmers can add more value to their coffee and potentially receive higher prices.

Experimental processing, however, requires refinement, the necessary equipment, and sufficient capital. Without these, farmers face significant financial risk, sacrificing large volumes of cherries for little to no reward.

Previously, coffee producers experimented with processing by altering different fermentation methods – extended fermentations, carbonic maceration, and introducing various yeasts. However, with infused and co-fermented coffees now on the market, the lines between different experimental processing methods have become increasingly blurred.

“An infused coffee has been fermented on its own and is then infused with another ingredient,” says Diego, the general manager of Aquiares Estate in Costa Rica. “Those ingredients don’t aid with fermentation; the coffee is just absorbing them.”

Although there are no formal definitions for both infused and co-fermented coffees, many agree on the following descriptions:

• Infused coffee: Flavouring agents or additives are introduced externally, typically during or after fermentation, or post-harvest processing. These additions can include concentrated fruit powders or extracts, spices, essential oils, or synthetic flavourings such as artificial vanilla, hazelnut oil, or caramel essence.
  • For example, coffee is sprayed with synthetic vanillin to create a “vanilla” flavour, or green coffee is treated with hazelnut oil during storage to impart a nutty taste.
• Co-fermented coffee: External organic substrates (such as fresh fruit pulp, musts, or cacao pulp) are added during fermentation, producing flavour influences beyond the coffee cherry itself.
  • For example, coffee is fermented with frozen passion fruit pulp or cacao pulp alongside the mucilage.

The controversy surrounding infused and co-fermented coffees

Producers have long been utilising fermentation in coffee processing, including anaerobic and lactic fermentation, for instance, to alter flavour profiles. Yet, the emergence of co-fermented, and most notably, infused coffees in the late 2010s sparked considerable debate about flavour manipulation and transparency.

Since its inception, specialty coffee has prioritised terroir, origin, and careful cultivation and processing, all of which highlight naturally occurring flavour notes. In keeping with this point of differentiation, some view infused and co-fermented coffees, which they argue create synthetic flavours, as being at odds with industry values. 

Infused coffees are a particular point of contention. The growing use of artificial ingredients and essential oils for infusion processing methods raises questions about flavour authenticity and even health concerns, especially when there is little to no transparency about the use of additional ingredients.

The debate also extends to competitions and auctions. The 2024 Best of Panama competition notably excluded coffees which “were found to be altered from their natural DNA expression… by using foreign additives”. Organisers cited a desire to “protect the authentic identity” of the country’s coffee sector, which consistently commands premium prices on the international market.

The decision sparked mixed reactions within the industry. While some commended the prioritisation of “purity” and terroir expression, others stand firm in the belief that infused and co-fermented coffees are a welcome innovation in processing and flavour, especially when producers benefit.

Is co-fermentation similar to yeast inoculation?

Defining and differentiating between experimental processing techniques has become a new challenge in specialty coffee. There are now varying grades, qualities, and categories for these new processing methods, leaving the market to contend with the struggle of ensuring transparency to consumers.

With many agreeing that co-fermentation strictly involves the use of organic substrates (most notably fresh fruit pulp) to imbue new flavours or enhance existing ones, it raises the question of how different it is from yeast inoculation – a more commonly accepted practice in specialty coffee.

Borrowed from beer and winemaking, yeast inoculation involves introducing specific yeast strains to the coffee before or during fermentation. A yeast strain is a specific variant of a yeast species that possesses a unique set of genetic traits, influencing how it ferments sugar and affecting the final product’s flavour, aroma, and fermentation speed. One of the most prominent examples in the coffee, beer, and wine industries is Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which can be controlled in a number of ways to create a huge range of different flavour profiles. 

Much like co-ferments, the process involves using organic substrates, compounds, and microorganisms to produce specific sensory profiles that cater to the preferences of niche markets. Coffee producers can utilise local yeast strains or buy commercially available strains to impact flavour profiles.

However, to a certain extent, “accidental” yeast inoculation during coffee processing is unavoidable.

“Fermentation is the breakdown of sugar by microorganisms. This will occur with or without the external introduction of yeast,” says Marty, the co-founder of Torch Coffee in China. “There are plenty of naturally occurring yeasts and bacteria all over and in the coffee cherry that will participate in fermentation.”

The use of specific yeasts, rather than relying solely on strains that are naturally present, as well as the timing of when the yeast is introduced, are the differentiating factors. Processing and fermentation expert Lucia Solis refers to this as “wild fermentations” (relying on yeast and bacteria found in the environment) versus “inoculated fermentations” (purchased or cultivated yeast and bacteria). 

Co-fermentation and yeast inoculation share similarities, but the key difference lies in the inclusion of new sugars, specifically, Diego explains.

“With yeast-cultured coffees, you introduce yeast strains and new microorganisms that will digest and ferment the sugars in the fruit and mucilage of the coffee,” he adds. “But with co-ferments, you are not only introducing a new microorganism, but also a new sugar source.

“A co-ferment can be with fruit, such as guava or watermelon, that also has sugars that ferment at the same time as the coffee does,” he adds. “Those fruits also contain other microorganisms that will alter the fermentation, too.”

In theory, co-fermentation could add more complexity to the fermentation process and potentially provide producers with more opportunities to increase sweetness and customise flavour notes. 

Similarly, most fruits already have their own distinct flavours and aromas, meaning co-fermentation increases the chances of influencing the coffee’s final flavour profile. For some, this may be perceived as more “artificial” than simply using different yeast strains, which only break down sugars, rather than introducing new ones, and indirectly influence flavour.

However, the impact of using fruit to co-ferment coffee may be more minor than we think. The Hachi Coffee Project, a pioneer in experimental processing, recently shared data suggesting that only 3% of the fruit used in co-fermentation ends up in the cup, signalling that the specific flavours of fruit may have little influence on coffee.

Seeking clarity is challenging, but appreciation is growing

Co-fermentation and yeast inoculation are not straightforward processing techniques. But as coffee processing diversifies, splitting into newly defined categories, the need for clarification intensifies. 

“One of the big problems we have right now is a lack of formal definitions for different terms,” Marty says. Despite increasingly noticeable differences, the terms “infused,” “flavoured,” and “co-fermented” are often used interchangeably, exacerbating confusion and concerns about transparency. 

Ultimately, the real and most significant danger lies in inadvertently stripping producers of the value of their coffee and retaining it in majority-consuming markets.

“The main point is not fighting about the terms but rather asking everyone to be transparent about what was done to a coffee during and after the fermentation and drying stages,” Marty adds. “If anything was added to this process, tell people what and how it was added. These things shouldn’t be seen as trade secrets but rather as a part of real transparency.”

This is the collective responsibility of all supply chain actors, not just producers who process coffee. Whether it’s infused coffees, co-ferments, or yeast inoculations, all industry professionals must communicate honestly and transparently about the use of additional compounds and microorganisms, especially as coffee’s health claims are under greater scrutiny.

“For all the coffee we sell at Torch, we tell people what happens during the entire process, including how many days of fermentation under what conditions – anaerobic, underwater, or soaking in mango juice, for example,” says Marty. “If anything is added, we explain clearly and honestly so we don’t have any trouble marketing them.”

As these techniques evolve, there’s also a growing appreciation for co-fermentation and yeast inoculation. Although not all coffee professionals and consumers will embrace them, more people are increasingly recognising the skill and expertise needed to carry out these processing techniques successfully.

“What I like about co-ferments and yeast culture in their ‘pure’ forms is that there is a science behind them,” Diego says. “You need to understand more of the behaviours of the ingredients that you add in.”

Producers like Diego Bermudez, Allan Hartmann, and Matheus Antonaci of the Hachi Project are leading these efforts. Their work employs biotechnology, including the utilisation of various yeast strains during fermentation, to pinpoint and highlight existing flavours in coffee. In time, there’s potential to reimagine what’s possible in terms of coffee’s sensory characteristics.

The debate about infused, co-fermented, and yeast-inoculated coffees requires nuance and an open mind. Ultimately, it underscores the importance of honesty and transparency in coffee processing. 

Simultaneously, if we seek to define these coffees more clearly, it’s imperative that those who have direct experience creating and refining these techniques – producers and farm workers – lead these conversations.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why we should treat infused and co-fermented coffees differently.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Co-ferments vs. yeast inoculation: What’s the difference? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Processing is often at the forefront of innovation in specialty coffee – reinventing how we experience it altogether.

Clean washed coffees are as popular as ever, but the growing demand for more exciting, “unusual”, and novel flavours has driven producers to further experiment with processing techniques. Some have “reimagined” traditional methods or created entirely new ones – opening up new flavour possibilities and market opportunities.

As producers continue to push the boundaries of processing innovation, it’s important to understand how it will evolve and what challenges lie ahead.

I spoke with Felipe Sardi from La Palma y El Tucán and Edwin Noreña from Campo Hermosa Coffee to find out more.

You may also like our article on whether innovative processing can help coffee producers overcome challenges.

How coffee processing keeps evolving

Processing has a huge impact on the overall coffee experience. Research estimates that post-harvest activities, especially processing, are responsible for up to 60% of final coffee quality.

It also has a significant influence over flavour and mouthfeel. Washed and natural processed coffees – often considered the most “traditional” – make up the vast majority of the market. The former are generally much cleaner with more noticeable acidity, while the latter are fruitier and sweeter with a more pronounced body.

Honey processing, also now considered “standard” in specialty coffee, utilises different variations of mucilage retained on the beans to create a range of flavour profiles. Black honey, for example, implies 75 to 100% mucilage, so it’s most similar to natural processing. White honey, meanwhile, usually contains around 10% mucilage – akin to a washed coffee.

Building on the foundation of the “big three” processing methods, more producers started to experiment with their techniques in the mid-2010s. Controlling specific variables or utilising additional ingredients allows them to create entirely new flavour experiences – catering to growing consumer demand for more unconventional sensory profiles.

Controlled fermentation as the driver of innovation

Carbonic maceration emerged in 2015, popularised by Sasa Sestic’s win at the World Barista Championship. Like other processing methods that followed, carbonic maceration leverages fermentation to amplify certain flavour attributes or introduce new ones.

“Over the past few years, the greatest innovation has been the intentional use of fermentation as a tool for sensory design,” says Felipe, the co-founder of the award and competition-winning La Palma & El Tucán coffee farm in Colombia. “We’ve moved from simple washed or natural processes to scientifically guided fermentations, where pH, temperature, microbial activity, and oxygen exposure are meticulously controlled.

“At La Palma & El Tucán, we developed and documented methods such as lactic, acetic, bio-innovation (washed and natural), pH clarity, and honey fermentation processes – each finetuned for specific flavour profiles,” he adds. “These aren’t just experiments anymore; they’re structured, repeatable systems designed to amplify terroir expression.”

These enhanced flavour profiles have captured the attention of both high-end roasters and competitors, who use these coffees as differentiators and unique selling points. 

“Today, fermentation offers a world of possibilities,” Edwin, the CEO and owner of award-winning Campo Hermosa Coffee Farm in Colombia, known for its unique experimental Bourbon and Caturra varieties. “We use mossto, hops, fresh and dried fruits, more accessible forms of glucose, and a wide range of yeasts.”

More recently, co-fermented and infused coffees, also relying on fermentation and the use of additional ingredients, have proliferated. Infused coffees typically include flavouring agents or additives introduced externally, usually during or after fermentation, or post-harvest processing. These additions can include concentrated fruit powders or extracts, spices, essential oils, or synthetic flavourings.

Co-fermented coffees, meanwhile, utilise external organic substrates (such as fresh fruit pulp, musts, or cacao pulp) that are added during fermentation, altering the flavour beyond terroir and the cherry itself.

“Our first co-fermented coffees date back to around 2015, when I began experimenting with mossto and some commercial yeasts I found in local markets,” Edwin says. “I used this juice to infuse the coffee masses during fermentation in closed environments using small 20-litre tanks.

“When I discovered the impact of this leachate on fermentation – and its versatility as a starter culture – I called it mossto, since it followed the same principle as grape must in winemaking. I chose the spelling with double ‘s’ to distinguish it from the wine industry.”

Processing has opened up new opportunities for coffee producers

Despite high coffee prices, producers continue to face an increasing number of challenges. The rising cost of inputs, such as fertilisers and labour fees, means many are unable to reinvest in their farms, leaving them vulnerable to climate change, market volatility, and geopolitical tensions.

To navigate these hurdles, while simultaneously finding a point of differentiation in an increasingly competitive market, more farmers are turning to experimental processing and intentional fermentation. In some cases, these techniques can boost cup quality and improve flavour, especially for overripe cherries typically discarded or sold as lower-quality.

This trend is most noticeable at industry events. More producers have started to market and export coffee, including high-end fermentations, themselves, bypassing traditional trade models and exerting more control over their own supply chains. 

“Especially for those working with innovative or high-value coffees, staying close to export decisions is crucial to ensure the story, quality, and intention behind the coffee are properly communicated,” Edwin says.

These “showstopping” lots are used as conversation starters, helping producers establish new roaster partnerships that can drive long-term sales across a broader selection of more “traditional” coffees.

Coinciding with their growing presence at events, specialty coffee producers are also drawing inspiration from the winemaking industry. Although this isn’t a new concept, more farmers, including smallholders, have started to work directly with wine and beer experts to apply similar practices to coffee processing.

While the primary intention is to broaden the spectrum of flavour without sacrificing clarity or origin integrity, cross-industry collaborations can also result in more consistent and replicable fermentations. They can also give producers greater creative freedom to differentiate their coffees in the market, as well as a more scientific approach to improving quality control and shelf life.

“We are deeply inspired by the wine and beer industries, especially their scientific approach to fermentation, variable control, and use of starter cultures,” Felipe says. “However, it’s essential to recognise that coffee requires a very different framework. Coffee fermentation is shorter; it doesn’t occur only in a liquid medium, and the risks of over-fermentation or sensory collapse are higher.”

Supporting coffee’s ecosystem

This highlights a broader conversation about the use of natural and native ingredients versus artificial or “foreign” ones – a point of contention, especially when it comes to infused coffees. For many, the latter is seen as less desirable and could compromise the coffee’s innate characteristics, or even food safety regulations.

“Indigenous microorganisms are part of the ecosystem’s invisible language – translating soil, climate, and biodiversity into flavour. While inoculation can offer consistency in highly controlled contexts, it can also compromise the expression of terroir,” Felipe tells me. “For us, native microbes are not a variable to manage; they’re a vital part of the coffee’s identity.”

While it’s possible to introduce non-native ingredients during processing successfully, the practice requires time, expertise, and experimentation.

“We fermented coffee using hops from the beer industry. The first results were, without exaggeration, some of the most terrible coffees I’ve ever tasted,” says Edwin. “They were so intensely bitter and unbalanced that it was practically undrinkable. 

“But I was able to refine the technique by applying a fundamental, time-tested principle from beer brewing – only doing the exact opposite,” he adds. “In beer, bitterness is a marker of quality; in coffee, it’s sacrilege. So, techniques must be adapted with restraint and respect for coffee’s delicate balance. It took several iterations, learning to invert that principle, and refining timing, temperature, and hop types before we achieved balance and clarity.”

In 2024, four baristas won their respective national championships using hop-fermented coffees from Campo Hermosa Coffee.

“Fermentation offers a world of possibilities. We use mossto, hops, fresh and dried fruits, more accessible forms of glucose, and a wide range of yeasts, but we realised commercial strains weren’t ideal,” Edwin adds. “They need to be native strains, extracted from the same coffee varieties we grow.”

Accounting for risks with innovative coffee processing

Creating a sense of exclusivity is one of the most effective ways for producers to market experimentally processed coffees. Prestige and rarity can drive up brand appeal and price, sometimes to remarkable levels.

The limited availability of these coffees also reaffirms its premium positioning. Producers can command higher prices that a small but steady number of buyers are willing to pay.

Simultaneously, however, the proliferation of these coffees can obscure the realities of the broader market – namely, that these coffees are risky investments, and the market for them is likely always to remain comparatively small.

“Experimental fermentations and rare varieties like Gesha or Sidra offer not just unique flavours but compelling stories – and in this saturated market, story is currency,” Felipe says. “That said, we must be cautious. Fermentation can elevate, but it can also mask or distort. We have learned that precision, not novelty, is what sustains quality at scale.

“Failure is expensive, and invisible until it’s too late. A single misstep in pH management or microbial contamination can render an entire lot undrinkable,” he adds. “For example, we lose full nanolots to uncontrolled thermal buildup during closed-tank fermentations that go wrong. They usually cup like fermented banana vinegar – not exactly the goal.”

Ultimately, to achieve the desired results with high-level fermentations, a science-based approach is key. This means investing in infrastructure, such as hermetic tanks and cooling systems, as well as scientific tools like pH meters and microbial tracking devices. Additionally, it involves training in microbiology and sensory calibration, and implementing post-processing stabilisation protocols.

“You need to have terroir specificity, mapping micro plots, soil profiles, and climate diaries,” Felipe says. “Scientific documentation is also crucial to show buyers why a flavour exists, not just what it is.”

Evidently, for producers with fewer resources and reduced access to capital, this poses a significant barrier to experimenting with coffee processing. To support these practices more widely, both Edwin and Felipe assert that collaboration, shared infrastructure, and support are essential.

“Transparent narratives are important, like sharing both successes and failures,” Felipe explains. “Our public Error Library documents processing mistakes for wider industry learning.”

Looking ahead, the future of innovative processing won’t be hyper-fermentations with loud and intense flavours, but coffees with balance and intentional precision. 

“We’re highlighting native yeasts, local ingredients, and terroir-driven processes that are truly reflective of place,” Edwin says.

While some emerging markets may embrace more unconventional sensory profiles, authenticity and transparency will steer on-farm decisions.

“Hyper-fermentation will remain relevant, but only if it’s used to elevate terroir, not to overpower it. We’re entering the era of precision and purpose,” Felipe concludes. “The market is maturing beyond flashy fermentation. It wants flavour with intention, integrity, and identity.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how honey processing is evolving.

Photo credits: La Palma y El Tucán

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Producers are pushing for more innovation in coffee processing appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Some believe they are a natural and welcome progression of innovation in experimental processing, creating bold, unique flavours otherwise impossible with “traditional” processing techniques. Others, meanwhile, consider infused coffees inauthentic and misleading, dismissing their place in specialty coffee.

They have long been, and will continue to be, a polarising and contentious subject. But as infused coffees diversify and proliferate in certain markets, have opinions shifted significantly?

Kyle Ramage of Black & White Coffee Roasters, Ennio Cantergiani of Academie du Café, and David Paparelli of M-Cultivo share their thoughts.

You may also like our article on how infused coffees are diversifying.

The impact of infused coffees on the industry

Between 2018 and 2020, rumours began to circulate about a new “infusion” processing method. 

The process involved co-fermenting green coffee with additional natural ingredients, such as fruit and spices. Producers could then create intensely bold and prominent flavour profiles, corresponding to whichever ingredients they added. 

As a result, producers could “customise” their coffees to match buyer preferences, broadening market access. Moreover, infusion processing methods could also raise cup scores by a few points, potentially improving farmers’ income.

The benefits were clear, especially in an industry that advocates for producers’ economic and social empowerment. Yet, some coffee professionals are still hesitant to accept them.

Some assert that their “funky” or prominent flavours can’t be achieved by terroir or traditional processing alone. Without full transparency, they claim infused coffees could mislead roasters, baristas, consumers, and even competitors.

“The downside is where the controversy lies – the integrity of the product. Some producers hide the fact that there’s some co-fermentation to level the playing field,” says David Paparelli, the CEO of M-Cultivo, an online platform that connects producers with international buyers and improves their market access. “We still need integrity of the product and honesty when telling buyers how producers process these coffees. There also needs to be some level of education in order to communicate to buyers effectively.”

Although still divisive, infused coffees have only grown in popularity. They have become a permanent fixture of trade shows in particular. Producers and roasters can showcase new and exciting flavour profiles that pique the interest of many attendees, effectively using these coffees as marketing tools.

Lack of formal definitions

Coinciding with polarising opinions, many still disagree on how to define these coffees. 

The terms “infused,” “flavoured,” and “co-fermented” are often used interchangeably. This makes it difficult to distinguish between them, exacerbating confusion and concerns about transparency.

“I always struggle with the term ‘infused coffees’, as it can have negative connotations. It can be inferred that these coffees are intentionally deceptive, which isn’t true,” says Kyle Ramage, a US Barista Champion and a co-founder of Black & White Coffee Roasters in North Carolina, US. “I tend to use the term co-fermented when the coffee is fermented with something else, especially when it comes to fruit-forward coffees.”

Moreover, there’s little agreement about where exactly flavour “infusion” should take place along the supply chain. Some believe infusion can happen at any stage, whether during processing or after roasting. Others, meanwhile, affirm that only you can only infuse green coffee.

“As soon as you add extra ingredients for flavour modification, I consider it infusion,” says Ennio Cantergiani, the owner of Academie du Café, a coffee training and education centre in Chardonne, Switzerland. “Unfortunately, it’s not so simple. There are many classifications of these coffees, including yeast and bacteria inoculation, co-fermentation with and without sugar, flavoured-infused, and barrel aged.”

As the different categories of infused and co-fermented coffees proliferate, they can be separated into two distinct types: flavour modification and flavour enhancement. 

Co-fermentation, for example, is more of a flavour modification. Producers add extra ingredients to imbue their flavours into the coffee. Yeast inoculation, for instance, is more akin to flavour enhancement. Farmers add different yeasts and bacteria to coffee as it ferments to emphasise certain flavours and textures, such as lactic tasting notes.

“Co-fermentation is often the focus of the infused coffee debate,” David says. “Yeast inoculation is becoming increasingly common and has been in the wine and beer industries for a long time. I don’t think there’s necessarily any problem with classifying it as a natural coffee flavour. It’s more of an enhancement, not a modification or tampering.”

Opening up conversations about infused coffees

Since its inception, specialty coffee has prioritised terroir, origin, and careful cultivation and processing, all of which highlight naturally occurring flavour notes. 

In keeping with this point of differentiation, some view infused and co-fermented coffees, which they argue create synthetic flavours, as being at odds with industry values. Others, meanwhile, stand firm in the belief that they are a welcome innovation in processing and flavour, especially when producers benefit. 

Over five years later, there’s still clear division between the “team terroir” and “team infused” camps. Although the overall industry may never fully embrace infused and co-fermented coffees, particularly in more mature markets, the growth of these coffees has given way to more constructive discourse about processing and flavour.

“We’re at a point where we can have nuanced discussions about what infused coffee is and isn’t, and the different levels of infused coffee,” David says. “There’s a spectrum that we’re finally acknowledging. We need transparency. The conversations have shifted to a more open space, and hopefully, this is where we progress towards in the future as well.

“These coffees have made processing more of a scientific endeavour, which is more similar to other premium beverage industries, and we should acknowledge this positive impact,” he adds.

Indeed, consumer interest in infused coffees has grown, particularly among younger generations and in cultures where fermented flavours and novel experiences are popular, such as China, Japan, and Saudi Arabia.

To introduce these coffees to a wider audience, Black & White has blended co-ferments with other traditional processing methods, which Kyle says creates more balanced, yet still interesting, flavour profiles. The Piña Colada blend, which combines coconut fermented coffee with a traditional processed coffee, has a sparkling mouthfeel, for instance.

“We can have a lot of interesting, constructive conversations,” he tells me. “At the 2024 Specialty Coffee Expo, I took part in a panel discussion about co-fermentation, advocating for it. The people against it had solid arguments, and the discussion was tense, but overall positive. We have different opinions, which is good for our industry.”

Raising awareness of health concerns

Alongside discussions about transparency, flavour authenticity, and value addition, the growing prominence of infused coffees has raised concerns about food health and safety – especially when using artificial ingredients.

While the producer-led trend largely began with the use of natural ingredients, such as fruit and spices, there has been a growing number of cases where farmers use artificial flavourings to achieve similar results.

Artificial flavourings are often perceived as “less than” compared to natural, whole food ingredients, potentially creating more synthetic, one-dimensional tasting notes. Scientific research also suggests that artificial food additives are related to a number of health risks, including developing certain types of cancer.

This highlights the essential need to offer full transparency about all additional ingredients used on coffee farms and beyond.

“I always support these practices as long as the language is accurate. If we buy coffee that has had fruit added to it, we need producers to be honest,” Kyle says. “If not, we always speak directly with the farmers. Customers need to be aware of what they are purchasing and that we are as transparent as we can be about what happens at the farm level.”

With the recent US Food and Drug Administration ruling that automatically classifies black coffee as “healthy”, labelling is likely to be under even more scrutiny.

“It’s a mandatory requirement in terms of food regulations, especially for labels,” Ennio highlights. “Everything that has been added during the process that affects product integrity must be declared. Therefore, when extra ingredients, whether natural or artificial, are added to modify the flavour and taste of coffee, it must be mentioned on the label. Consumers must be aware of what has been added to the product. 

“The 2024 US lawsuit against Unilever is a case in point,” he adds. The company agreed to pay almost US $9 million to settle a class action lawsuit regarding one of the main ingredients in Breyers Natural Vanilla Ice Cream, after it was found that the product contains non-vanilla plant products, potentially misleading consumers about where the flavour is derived from.

Genuine innovation will drive the industry forward

Regardless of opinion, the demand for infused and co-fermented coffees is evident. 

As interest in advanced processing methods, such as anaerobic fermentation and thermal shock, proliferates, infusion and co-fermentation are likely to find a niche.

“Infused coffee, especially yeast inoculation, will become a more common practice in high-end specialty coffee,” says David. “On the other hand, co-fermentation will become its own category with different subcategories, like fruits and flowers. As long as producers can make a living off of these coffees, they will support the industry.” 

The strongest interest has been in emerging specialty coffee markets. With a bigger demand for novelty coffees, the Middle East, China, South Korea, Taiwan, and Japan have been among the largest export destinations for infused coffees. 

Although demand has also been steadily increasing in Europe and the US, consumers in these countries are more likely to consider experimental flavours over-fermented and sour, and tend to be more value-oriented when buying coffee. This means artificially infused coffees may find less success in these markets.

“We need people who have bold opinions and who disagree,” Kyle asserts. “As we have more specialised roasters, importers, and green buyers, we will also have more specialised customers. The more educated our customers are, the better it is for our industry. 

“When people have to think, ‘Do I like this cinnamon-infused coffee, or do I like the clean washed Ethiopian coffee?’, the more they will start to demand what they actually want. And we need that in our industry to push us forward.”

Ultimately, we need to be open-minded and inclusive of these coffees, especially when huge knowledge gaps still exist. At the same time, however, the market for infused and co-fermented coffees remains comparatively small compared to washed, naturals, and honeys – and that is unlikely to change.

“It will always exist as a niche market. Some consumers love these coffees, and it is true that it could be a ‘bridge’ between tea and coffee lovers, particularly light infused coffees with floral notes,” Ennio says.

While the debate over flavour manipulation is important, we should acknowledge that there are more pressing matters that demand equal, if not more, industry attention, such as climate resilience and farmer livelihoods.

“We should spend a lot more time talking about other things. Producers will figure out a solution and how to categorise co-fermentation,” says David. “We need to focus on how we should create an industry where farmers can thrive in the future.”

Since they captured the attention of specialty coffee professionals, infused coffees have sparked contentious discourse. While people have become more accepting of these coffees overall, confusion and apprehension persist.

The terroir vs. infusion debate will continue for years to come. But as infused coffees diversify and new categories emerge, they will likely find a home in the industry.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether we should treat infused and co-fermented coffees differently.

Photo credits: Ennio Cantergiani

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Five years on, where does the industry stand on infused coffees? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Unpredictable weather patterns threaten global coffee production as we know it. According to a study published in December 2024, prolonged droughts and climbing temperatures affect the flowering of coffee plants in Brazil, the world’s largest producer and exporter of coffee, delaying or hastening the maturation of cherries. 

These challenges force producers to find new ways to adapt, seeking to preserve quality and yields to secure income. One possible solution is leveraging advanced processing methods that help improve flavour and quality, especially with overripe cherries typically discarded or sold as lower-quality coffee.

I spoke to Nick Mabey, co-founder and director of Assembly Coffee and Volcano Coffee Works, Dr Fabiana Carvalho, a neuroscientist at the University of Campinas, and Professor Lucas Louzada, Director of Operations and Quality Control, and Ana Luiza Pellicer, co-owner and commercial director at Mió, to learn whether these methods are scalable.

You may also like our article on how honey coffee processing is changing.

Climate change is presenting more and more challenges

The impact of the climate crisis has long been prevalent across the Bean Belt. The estimate that up to 50% of current global arabica–growing regions could become unproductive by 2050 has been well-known for some time now, presenting the supply chain with unprecedented challenges.

Although the consequences of climate change are present in almost every producing country, Brazil’s leading position in the global market means the repercussions are significantly more noticeable. Persistently above-average temperatures and below-average rainfall have heavily impacted the country’s coffee cultivation.

Last year, Brazil had its hottest winter in recent decades, caused by the El Niño effect, a combination of intense heat and prolonged drought. Coffee plants are highly sensitive to extreme temperature fluctuations, which alter the chemical compounds and activities inside of the plants and cherries.

“The arabica plant has to adjust its physiology to survive in hostile climate conditions,” says Dr Fabiana Carvalho. She leads the Coffee Sensorium, a project that started in 2017 and researches how extrinsic factors influence the consumption of coffee, and is the Head of Research and Development at Mió, a coffee farm and exporter in Monte Santo de Minas, Brazil.

“The carbon metabolism – known as C3 – of arabica plants works optimally in conditions where average temperatures range between 19 to 23ºC. However, when the average temperature rises above 28 to 30ºC for multiple consecutive weeks, the carbon metabolism switches from C3 to C2, working harder as a survival mechanism,” Fabiana adds.

“At this point, the plants’ metabolism is no longer targeting photosynthesis, but focusing on photorespiration. As an analogy, the plant starts neglecting the coffee fruits and abandons its phenological cycle; they start to focus on survival, so the cherries mature from ripe to overripe very quickly.”

Understanding the ripple effects across the supply chain

While not restricted to Brazil, the impacts of a worsening climate crisis are especially prevalent in the country, given its status as the world’s biggest producer and exporter of coffee. 

In some of its major growing regions, average temperatures have consistently hit 30ºC throughout the year, inevitably impeding production yields and quality. Because of Brazil’s role in the global market, persistent supply shortages have driven the C price – the benchmark for international coffee prices – to all-time highs in 2025.

“Supply deficits from origin have put a lot of pressure on the delivery of coffee under contract, finance costs have eroded long positions for roasters, and the backwardation of the market has put a lot of pressure on traders getting coffee to the board, so building long term exposure has become risky,” says Nick Mabey, the co-founder and director of specialty coffee roasters Assembly Coffee and Volcano Coffee Works in London, UK. 

“A supply squeeze in almost all market facets is playing into this,” he adds.

On the surface, higher prices sound ideal for coffee producers, who have long grappled with income instability during periods of low C prices. But when factoring in rising costs – from pickers’ wages to the increased costs of fertilisers – the reality is that few farmers are reaping the benefits.

Compounded by the effects of climate change, producers in Brazil and beyond face a stark situation. Unpredictable weather and ongoing market volatility render many of them unable to invest in climate mitigation and adaptation strategies, creating a pervasive cycle of income instability and declining quality and yields.

Is processing innovation a solution?

With average global temperatures expected to rise in the coming years, the coffee industry is likely to experience “ongoing systemic shocks” that increase the risk of quality and yield declines, driving up prices even further.

There are a number of agroforestry practices that producers can implement to mitigate changing climate conditions, such as shade cover and intercropping. However, with increasingly unpredictable weather accelerating or delaying plant maturation, posing a significant risk to stable income, producers must find ways to adapt to global heating that offer more immediate relief.

Advanced and novel processing techniques, such as anaerobic and lactic fermentation, have emerged over the past decade as differentiating factors for producers, allowing them to access new markets. These methods result in unique, interesting flavour profiles that cater to diverse consumer preferences, especially in markets like East Asia and the Middle East, which value exclusivity and unconventional tasting notes.

However, as climate conditions worsen, coffee processing innovation has the potential to become an effective strategy for managing the associated problems. A 2020 study found that using different yeast strains during fermentation can exacerbate and heighten different flavours in coffee, allowing producers to hone in on specific sensory profiles.

But whether deliberate fermentation can improve quality and cup score is a different question. The same research paper concluded that the concentration of certain compounds, namely isoamyl acetate, peaked at 24 hours and then began to steadily decline past this point during fermentation, meaning that controlling total fermentation time is essential.

Can fermentation help improve quality?

As the rapid and eventual overripening of cherries becomes a growing issue in prominent producing countries like Brazil, fermentation emerges as a possible solution.

“We noticed that our coffee plants were under severe stress due to the warmer winter; they were losing leaves quickly,” says Professor Lucas Louzada, the Director of Operations and Quality Control at Mió. “We decided to speed up the harvest; however, we then had to deal with the problem of underripe and overripe cherries.

“The central idea about fermenting overripe cherries came to me when I was preparing a class on coffee drying; I remembered a paper I had written in 2019 about the percentage of water available at each stage of coffee fruits, from harvesting to final drying,” he adds.

Over the last five years, Mió, Assembly Coffee, and the Coffee Sensorium have collaborated on many different projects. During this harvest, the team worked together on three deliberate fermentation techniques based on data-driven protocols focusing on increasing the quality of overripe cherries.

“We decided to implement the research protocols on a larger scale to develop high-end specialty coffees from overripe cherries,” says Ana Luiza Pellicer, co-owner and commercial director at Mió.

They placed one lot, which contained 99% overripe cherries, in an oxygen-free tank at 38°C to undergo carbonic maceration. The yeast fermentation lot, containing 60% overripe cherries, was also placed in oxygen-free tanks and inoculated with yeast to kickstart the fermentation process. The team later added glucose and fructose to assist the process.

The “volcanic” fermentation process, which uses baker’s yeast and oxygen to drive fermentation, was also used. The lot containing 70% overripe cherries was placed in an oxygen-rich environment, formed into small mounds, and inoculated with yeast to begin the fermentation process. All three lots were fermented for 72 hours and dried as natural coffees.

A question of scalability

The climate crisis has exposed the coffee industry’s vulnerability to pests and diseases, falling yields, and price volatility. Therefore, to secure a sustainable future for global production and consumption, there is a clear need to support producers in their risk management strategies.

“The most obvious answer would be to invest in shade cover to cool coffee farms,” Lucas says; however, the transition to agroforestry practices requires access to sufficient resources and support.

Novel coffee processing offers a viable alternative to coping with the impact of changing climate conditions, but scalability remains an issue, especially across different producing countries. 

In Kenya, for example, a country also dealing with the climate crisis, the majority of coffee is processed at washing stations, where producers and cooperative members often process their cherries together. Utilising controlled, advanced fermentation in these instances would then require significant investment to implement large-scale structural changes, which would prove difficult.

“Unfortunately, thousands of coffee producers don’t have access to scientists or researchers to solve complex problems in real-time,” Lucas adds. “The next few years will be dedicated to studying the physiology of coffee plants and understanding how extreme weather events can affect coffee cultivation and production worldwide without losing sight of quality and food safety.”

Unpredictable and worsening weather conditions underscore the importance of investing in the sustainable future of coffee production. Although coffee processing innovation doesn’t offer a one-size-fits-all approach, it emphasises the need to find new, creative ways to adapt.

“The global climate is changing and, in turn, changing global coffee production,” Lucas concludes. “But until producers understand how they can be proactive about adapting, starting by halting large-scale deforestation, the situation is set to worsen.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how much we really need to know about experimental processing.

Photo credits: Assembly Coffee, Mió

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Producers are facing more challenges: Could processing innovation be a solution? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Arising from this challenge, honey processed coffee was born. Intensely sweet with a pronounced body and complex flavour notes, specialty coffee buyers quickly became interested in this processing method, and demand increased.

Today, it’s considered one of the “big three” alongside washed and natural processed coffees. Producers have experimented with different variations of mucilage retained on the beans to create a range of flavour profiles, creating black, red, yellow, and white honey processed lots that we’re now familiar with.

In recent years, a number of novel and advanced processing methods have emerged as a way for producers to differentiate their coffees with exciting, unconventional tasting notes. As these techniques have gained popularity, honey processing has effectively become “normal” – and deemed less exciting than methods such as anaerobic fermentation and carbonic maceration.

But that doesn’t mean producers still aren’t continuing to innovate with honey processing. To learn more, I spoke to Jorge Raul Rivera, a three-time Cup of Excellence-winning coffee producer in El Salvador, and Jamie Treby, coffee strategist at DRWakefield.

You may also like our article on whether more producers are starting to diversify their processing methods.

How honey processing became a staple of the coffee industry

Some coffee origins are synonymous with certain processing methods. Brazil is known for its natural processed coffees, while washed coffees are particularly popular in Kenya.

Costa Rica, meanwhile, pioneered honey processing. Like any processing technique, the idea is to enhance and pinpoint certain flavour notes, but it was also developed out of necessity after government-imposed water usage restrictions in the late 2000s.

“Costa Rica is the most well-known origin for honey processed coffees, particularly with the different ‘colours’ of honey,” says Jamie Treby, a coffee strategist at green coffee trader DRWakefield. “There are farms that talk about innovating as far back as the early 2000s.”

Borrowing from pulped natural processing used in Brazil, the honey process gets its name from the sticky mucilage left intact on the beans as they dry. Unlike washed coffees, where the skin and pulp are entirely removed, and naturals, where the entire cherry dries intact, honey processing lies somewhere inbetween. Cherries are pulped to remove the outer skin, leaving behind the mucilage. 

Producers then leave varying levels of mucilage intact as the coffee dries, creating different flavour profiles and textures. The different “colours” imply different percentages of mucilage left on the beans before drying. Typically, the higher the amount of mucilage, the more sugars will be present as the coffee dries, leading to sweeter flavours.

The most common types of honey processed coffees are:

• Black honey: 75 to 100% mucilage, so it’s most similar to natural processing
• Red honey: 50% mucilage
• Yellow honey: around 25% mucilage
• White honey: around 10% mucilage, so akin to a washed coffee

Demand grows

Intitial responses to honey processing were sceptical, with some claiming the flavours were too “wild” or “unclean”. But as consumer demand changed, interest in honey processed coffees grew. 

More specialty coffee roasters started to source honey processed Costa Rican single origins, helping to establish the country’s global reputation. The coffees also performed well at auctions, receiving high scores and fetching high prices.

Over time, producers in other countries started to experiment with honey processing.

“Graciano Cruz, a pioneering producer from Panama, brought honey processing to El Salvador,” says Jorge Raul Rivera, an award-winning coffee producer in El Salvador. “In the beginning, everyone was apprehensive, but it’s not rocket science and we got to understand how to do it well pretty quickly. 

“For that reason three of our first places at Cup of Excellence are honey processed Pacamara.”

Jamie says honey processing is also becoming more popular in countries like Guatemala, Vietnam, Myanmar, Peru, and Uganda – underscoring its mass appeal.

The “new normal” for specialty coffee

As more countries started to process black, red, yellow, and white honey coffees at higher volumes, the global market quickly became saturated with them. With varying flavour profiles and mouthfeel, these coffees appealed to a wide range of consumers, allowing coffee shops and roasters to meet demand across the board.

In time, honey processed coffees quickly became “standard” offerings in the specialty coffee market. Once differentiated, and even considered “too funky”, they no longer stood out as consumers demanded more interesting and unique flavour experiences.

“When we started our farm decades ago, we processed 90% washed coffees and only 10% non-washed,” Jorge tells me. “Nowadays it’s the opposite; we do 80% non-washed and 20% washed because that’s what consumers want.”

The proliferation of experimental processing methods in recent years – most notably various types of controlled fermentation such as anaerobic and lactic fermentation – has captured some of honey processed coffee’s market share. Offering even more complex, layered, and interesting flavour profiles, advanced and novel processing techniques have started to become more common in specialty coffee.

At the same time, standardisation became a challenge for honey processed coffees. 

“The percentage of mucilage left intact, as well as fermentation and drying times, all vary, so what one producer creates as red might be another producer’s yellow or black,” Jamie explains. “We have producers that offer red honey coffees, but the percentage of mucilage and fermentation and drying times are all different, so the colours cover a broad spectrum.

“White honey coffees, in particular, can be close to washed coffees, but how producers develop them varies,” he adds. “They can be pulped with 5% mucilage left on, or a short drying time with 90% of the mucilage intact.”

What could be next?

Despite being considered a “normal” processing method by many, producers – in Costa Rica and beyond – are continuing to innovate with honey processed coffees.

While some use the processing method as a base to build on further flavour development, others have created new types of honey processed coffees. Pink, orange, and golden honeys have appeared in specialty coffee shops and roasters, although the exact mucilage percentages and fermentation and drying times are unknown. This drives innovation, but also muddies the water further regarding standardisation.

“Honey processing has always been about different variations. In the beginning, people thought you could only do honey, natural, and washed coffees, but you can do so many variations,” Jorge says. “That is what’s so interesting and special about it.

“There’s no specific variety that works best, too. Pacamaras work well as honey processed coffees, and Geshas, when done well without too much fermentation, taste amazing. It’s a matter of craftsmanship.”

There is immense value in honey processing, especially in producing countries where access to water is scarce. For this reason, producers will continue to leverage this processing method whether on its own or as a starting point for further flavour development.

“I’ve seen some anaerobic honey coffees, which considerably dial down the ‘over-funk’ into a complex yet soft coffee,” Jamie tells. “I think producers will dial back honey processing into one or two variations per farm, rather than trying to offer all of them.”

Is robusta the future of honey processing?

As specialty coffee embraces high-quality robusta, there is potential for producers to use honey processing to offer new, differentiated sensory experiences.

“Honey processing is particularly common for arabica and helps to soften acidity. For robusta, though, it can soften a more aggressive flavour profile and make it more palatable to a wider audience, or even produce some fruitiness that is not so common,” Jamie says. “The flesh of robusta tends to have a higher brix percentage than arabica, so there are more sugars to work with.

“More sugars means you can build more on a base profile, especially because you’re not fighting the noise of acidity, so the impact of processing on flavour is easier to detect,” he adds. “In Vietnam, where the robusta profile is quite mild, honey processing can produce some amazing fruity coffees and is no doubt a contributor to success.”

Honey processed arabicas continue to fetch high prices at auctions. At the Gesha Village 2022 auction, a consortium of Japanese buyers purchased a 60kg bag of Ethiopian honey processed coffee for over US $33,000 – indicating its appeal and value.

While it may take many years for honey processed robusta to achieve similar results, there is clear potential for growing market demand.

Once exclusive to Costa Rica, honey processing quickly became popular in the early 2010s for its intensely sweet flavours. Today, producers around the world use this method, and it’s now a staple of specialty coffee. 

Experimental processing has since gained some of its market share, but farmers are still finding ways to innovate with honey processed coffees.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether we can really define experimental processing methods.

Photo credits: DRWakefield, Jorge Raul Rivera

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How honey processing is evolving appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

The popularity of washed coffees prevails and undoubtedly will for years to come. But at the same time, it’s been hard to ignore the increasing number of experimental processing methods appearing on coffee shop menus and roasters’ offerings.

In recent years, there has been a growing focus on more advanced and novel techniques, such as extended and anaerobic fermentations, drawing inspiration from other industries like winemaking. Natural processed coffees are also becoming more popular as people are interested in fruit-forward, funkier profiles.

So where does this leave washed coffees? Are they becoming more popular again, or are other processing methods becoming more prominent?

I spoke to Abenezer A., Managing Director of Origin Land Coffee, and Andreas Kussmaul, a trader at Exportadora de Café California (ECC), a subsidiary of Neumann Kaffee Gruppe, for their insight.

You may also like our article on why it’s becoming more difficult for producers to differentiate their coffees.

Why washed processing methods are so popular

Although the natural process is the oldest processing method in the coffee industry, washed coffees became popular at the start of the 20th century. For producers who have access to plentiful water, this technique allows them to process coffee more quickly and consistently and also reduces the risk of overfermentation.

Another reason for their immense popularity is the sensory profiles they produce. The washed process generally results in cleaner flavours. As such, many producers opt for washed processing to better highlight terroir and inherent characteristics.

Abenezer A. is the Managing Director of Origin Land Coffee, a specialty coffee exporter in Ethiopia. In addition to better flavour clarity, he says washed coffees also express complexity and nuance.

“For example, in the context of Ethiopia, washed coffees from Banko Gotiti are complex, bright, and clean, loaded with heavy floral notes,” he tells me. “They’re also balanced, so they’re generally easier to drink.”

For green coffee buyers and roasters, washed coffees also offer other advantages. Consistent flavour profiles mean these lots are dependable year-round offerings. They’re also more flexible and adaptable to different roast profiles, brewing methods, and as single origins or in blends.

The rise in “funky” fermented coffee

Washed processing methods include a small amount of fermentation. But in recent years, a growing number of producers are leveraging intentional, controlled fermentation processing techniques to unlock new flavours and aromas.

With processing methods such as carbonic maceration, lactic and anaerobic fermentation, and thermal shock processing becoming more popular, consumers are becoming more accustomed to unique, unorthodox flavour experiences.

Andreas Kussmaul is a trader and licensed Q-grader at Exportadora de Café California (ECC), a subsidiary of Neumann Kaffee Gruppe. He says the popularity of “funkier” coffees is part of a broader cultural shift among younger generations.

“Younger consumers are pursuing new experiences,” he says. “Heavily fermented and unusual coffees meet their needs.”

Abenezer, meanwhile, says he has noticed more Ethiopian producers using experimental processing methods over the last five years.

“We have seen a wide range of funkier naturals and fermented anaerobic coffees in Guji, Yirgacheffe, and West Arsi, predominantly due to the ever-increasing demand from roasters who first saw the potential of these flavour profiles from other coffee-producing countries.

“The higher prices received for these coffees have motivated many wet mill owners, as well as exporters, to produce fermented coffees,” he adds. “Furthermore, there is significant growing demand from roasters in Asia who are key buyers of funkier naturals and fermented coffees.”

Is specialty coffee shifting back towards washed processing?

Many trends come and go in the industry, and the popularity of differentiated processing methods is no exception. Washed coffees will always remain popular, but the question is whether natural and experimental processing methods are becoming more advantageous for producers to leverage.

“I think the industry will be remain divided between washed and other ‘standard’ processing methods and the funkier ones,” Andreas says. “I think producers that are using new processing methods will continue in that direction as demand for those coffees is only going to increase, but implementing these techniques is expensive.”

Abenezer, however, adds that the washed processing method is also costly for producers, which is likely persuading more to switch to natural processing.

“Most farmers competing at the Ethiopia Cup of Excellence are drying naturals in their own backyards or facilities,” he tells me. “To sustain a major shift towards washed coffees, producers must invest considerable time and effort. Currently, specialty washed grade 1 coffees command a lower price than natural grade 1 coffees.”

But washed processing has never gone out of style

Although natural processed and even funkier coffees have seen a rise in popularity that is unlikely to disappear, washed coffees will remain in high demand with customers. 

In addition, honey processed coffees can be considered a happy medium. With various levels of mucilage removed according to different colours, producers can replicate flavour profiles we associate with both washed and natural coffees.

Andreas explains, however, that honey processing also comes with its own challenges.

“It’s often more difficult and expensive than washed or naturals, and doesn’t always receive as high of a price as naturals,” he says.

Abenezer echoes this, saying: “A well-done honey process coffee can be exceptional, but requires a consistent processing mechanism. 

“Over the years, only a few have mastered the honey processing perfectly,” he adds. “It requires a rigorous workflow which can be labour intensive. The market share of honey processed coffees is also quite limited.

How could washed processing continue to evolve?

Abenezer explains that one of the most effective ways to scale and sustain the washed coffee process is to invest in wet mill expansion.

“Farmers need to have access to wet mills set up, and this requires investment,” he tells me. “For example, Aricha is a coffee-growing area located in the South Western part of Ethiopia where the majority of farmers have micro coffee pulpers, which help them supply washed coffees in larger volumes.

“Another solution would be to reward farmers with premium payments for their cherries at large-scale wet mills,” he adds. “For instance, most exporter-owned wet mills in Gedeb Woreda and Yirgacheffe pay extra annual premium payments to help motivate farmers to deliver the ripest and most outstanding coffee cherries.”

Moreover, as climate change increasingly impacts the coffee industry, we could see more producers adapt to these changing conditions with their processing methods, which may indicate a slight shift away from washed coffees.

“Specialty coffee will always be pursuing new things, exploring new flavours processing techniques,” says Andreas Kussmaul. “Taking into consideration the impact of climate change, producers will adapt their processing methods to use less water.”

Washed coffees are a staple of the coffee industry and always will be. But at the same time, it’s clear that many producers across different origins are leveraging the benefits of other processing methods.

Whether or not washed processing is becoming more popular is difficult to answer. Ultimately, however, we are seeing a more diverse range of processing methods than ever before.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how to improve quality with washed coffees.

Photo credits: Neumann Kaffee Gruppe

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Are washed coffees becoming more popular again? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Demand for these coffees largely stems from continued interest in unique and unusual flavour profiles. This ultimately drives some producers to experiment even further – effectively redefining existing processing methods or creating entirely new ones.

Innovation is an inherent and welcome part of the industry, especially at this level of the supply chain. But as some producers continuously tweak their processing methods to differentiate themselves in the market, the risk of miscommunicating how they achieve certain flavour profiles can increase.

This then begs the question: is it important that roasters know exactly what these new experimental processing methods involve? And if they don’t, how does this impact the consumer? Roland Horne, founder and CEO of WatchHouse, and Vicente Mejia, founder and CEO of Clearpath Coffee, give their insight.

You may also like our article on what roasters need to know about lactic fermentation.

How the market for experimentally processed coffees has diversified

There was a time in the coffee industry when honey processing was considered unconventional (with the exception of Costa Rica, which pioneered this method in the late 2000s). In today’s market, however, this technique is one of the “big three” alongside natural and washed processing.

This shift demonstrates the impressive level of innovation that has taken place in coffee processing over the last nearly two decades. As producers developed new methods to stand out in the market, consumers were exposed to more interesting and complex flavour profiles. 

Demand started to increase, and competitions like the World Barista Championship further fuelled interest. At the 2015 event, winner Sasa Sestic used a carbonic macerated Ethiopian Sudan Rume in his routine, which thrust experimental processing into the spotlight.

Like other advanced processing methods, carbonic maceration leverages fermentation to amplify certain flavour attributes or introduce new ones – broadening the spectrum of coffee flavour in ways rarely achieved on a commercial scale.

In the years since the 2015 WBC, the number of advanced processing techniques has exploded in specialty coffee. Some of the most notable examples include:

• Anaerobic fermentation – an increasingly popular processing method where producers control fermentation in a low-oxygen environment
• Thermal shock – created by Diego Bermudez, farmers wash cherries in hot water (at around 40ºC or 104ºF) before immediately running them under colder water (at around 12ºC or 54ºF)
• Lactic fermentation – a type of anaerobic fermentation where producers encourage the growth of Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB), which converts simple carbohydrates into lactic acid

The push for experimentation with coffee processing is still ongoing. Terms like “anoxic” and “acetic” fermentation are increasingly appearing on packaging as producers look for new ways to manipulate flavour and improve cup scores.

Can we strictly define these new coffee processing techniques?

If you ask coffee professionals and enthusiasts to describe most experimental processing techniques, it’s likely that many will at least be able to provide a loose definition. But given that more producers are putting their own spin on advanced processing methods, as well as creating new ones, it’s become increasingly difficult for the wider industry to keep up.

Moreover, the similarities between certain processing methods can make it difficult to fully distinguish between them. Anaerobic and anoxic fermentation, for instance, essentially rely on very similar conditions and can create almost identical flavour profiles – further adding to confusion.

This is an understandable concern for roasters in particular. Often acting as the bridge between consumers and the rest of the supply chain, they are responsible for communicating as much information about their coffee as possible.

Roland Horne is the founder and CEO of WatchHouse in the US and UK, which recently celebrated its tenth anniversary. He confirms that it can be difficult for roasters to know exactly what new experimental processing methods entail.

“Most roasters don’t have the opportunity to visit farms that are carrying out experimental processing,” he says. “Since they’re never exposed to these methods firsthand, and there are no industry standards for naming them, there is little agreement on what they actually mean.”

Vicente Mejia is the founder and CEO of Clearpath Coffee, a specialty coffee exporter in Colombia. He agrees with this perspective, saying: “There are a lot of complex steps in coffee processing and most roasters don’t have the time to learn all the details.”

Do roasters need to fully understand them?

Consumers certainly want to know more about experimental processing methods and how they impact flavour profile. But do roasters need to share information in meticulous detail?

Vicente doesn’t think so, and believes it actually detracts from more pressing issues in the industry.

“The bigger problem is the lack of transparency about infused and co-fermented coffees,” he says. “Some farmers claim they can produce certain flavour notes through fermentation alone, but in reality, they are adding ingredients to achieve these results.”

Ultimately, there’s the fear that if infused coffees aren’t marketed or sold transparently then consumers will perceive these flavours as inherent to terroir and variety. This would be an inaccurate representation of the coffee, and could mislead perceptions of similar processing methods or flavour profiles.

Roland, meanwhile, believes the language used to describe advanced processing can muddy the waters even further.

“Since some of these processing methods are so new, there’s a changing nomenclature that creates a lot of unnecessary words instead of focusing on what is really important,” he tells me. “Instead, we should emphasise that these coffees are fermented in a controlled environment for a specific period of time at a certain temperature with a clear flavour goal in mind.

“I think it’s less important that we’re specific about 96 hours versus 72 hours, 25ºC versus 20ºC, or which strains of bacteria are used,” he adds. “I think this only adds to confusion.”

Similarly, Vicente highlights that most consumers don’t derive a lot of value from learning specific details about processing.

“The end consumer doesn’t need, and in most cases doesn’t want, to know all the details of a very complex fermentation process,” he says. “Instead, we need to make specialty coffee more accessible and enjoyable.”

Establishing a feedback loop

Although Roland and Vicente both agree that roasters don’t need to fully understand new experimental processing methods, this doesn’t suggest that less transparency is more valuable. 

In fact, the opposite is often true. Two-way communication between roasters and producers will inevitably make it easier to cater to changing consumer tastes and preferences, and ensure novel processing still meets market demand for differentiated flavour experiences.

“Creating a feedback loop means we can learn from each other and improve our processes,” Roland explains. “We can inform producers about what our customers think of these coffees so that they can adapt their processing methods.”

Conversely, producers can share information with roasters about what does and doesn’t work for them. Building trust in the partnership reassures producers that they can ask for more support or resources to carry out certain experimental processing methods, or to experiment with creating their own, so that they don’t have to absorb all the risk.

In the years to come, we’re likely to see more and more advanced processing methods create new and diverse coffee flavours. As demand increases, it’s important that roasters have a baseline of knowledge about what these techniques involve.

But understanding the specific nuances of novel processing is often unnecessary. Instead, to add more value to the industry, roasters and producers can work closely together to offer differentiated sensory experiences.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why transparency is key for infused coffees.

Photo credits: Darren Rowlands, Massimo Shyrbi

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How much do roasters actually need to know about new experimental processing methods? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

In recent years, however, it’s been hard to ignore the growing prevalence of natural processed coffees in cafés and roasteries. Revered for their fruit-forward flavour profiles, more and more coffee shops have started to serve naturals as espresso. 

But at the same time, with their clean and bright cup profile, washed coffees will remain a staple on most menus. So is there a clear winner between the two? And should it matter?

To find out why specialty coffee shouldn’t have a favourite processing method, I spoke to Neil Oney, coffee quality manager at StoneX Specialty Coffee, and Stephen Gray, head of coffee at Origin Coffee Roasters.

You may also like our article on whether more producers have started to diversify their processing methods.

Washed and natural processing: What’s the difference?

Before we discuss why specialty coffee shouldn’t have a favourite processing method, let’s break down what washed and natural coffees are.

Sometimes referred to as dry processing, natural processing is one of the oldest known techniques. Producers spread out cherries to dry in the sun with the fruit still intact. Once the cherries reach a certain moisture content, they are hulled. This involves removing the dried fruit (including parchment and mucilage) from the seeds.

Historically, this was done by hand, but more modern practices often involve the use of machinery to expedite the process. The beans may then go through additional dry milling to clean them before they are ready for export.

Washed processed coffee (also known as the wet process), meanwhile, requires stricter quality control methods:

• After harvesting, cherries are immediately depulped to remove the skin and fruit surrounding the seeds
• The coffee is then fermented to break down the mucilage – a process that can last anywhere from eight to 72 hours
• After fermentation, the beans are washed to clean away any remaining mucilage and are then sun dried, typically on raised beds or patios

The stark differences between the two processing methods results in very distinct flavour profiles and mouthfeel.

Stephen Gray is the head of coffee at Origin Coffee Roasters – a B Corp UK roaster.

“Generally speaking, washed coffees have more acidity, cleaner and better flavour clarity, and a less pronounced body,” he says. “Conversely, natural coffees have a fuller body, lower acidity, and a more intense sweetness, but with less subtlety or clarity.

“Even with similar tasting notes between the two methods, you would find more crisp, fresh fruit and floral flavours in washed coffees, and deeper, ripe, or stewed fruit flavours in natural coffees, with a ‘booziness’ or ‘funk’ to them,” he adds.

Does flavour influence which processing method is more popular?

Stephen believes processing methods have a direct effect on how popular a coffee is. 

“Natural processed coffees tend to be more intense in their flavour, and this makes it easy for them to stand out,” he says – adding that their “funkiness” is often highly sought after.

It’s important to note, however, that natural coffees can somewhat divide opinion.

Neil Oney is the coffee quality manager at StoneX Specialty Coffee, a green coffee trader that works with producers and roasters. He agrees that natural processing can polarise people.

“Especially as fermented flavours become more and more dominant, the chances that someone will love or hate these coffees increases,” he tells me. 

On the other hand, washed coffees tend to be cleaner and more consistent than naturals, which means they usually appeal to a wider range of consumers. Moreover, many agree that washed processing highlights a coffee’s innate characteristics, and thereby allows you to more effectively experience its terroir.

Neil notes that while washed coffees maintain a steady presence in specialty coffee, interest in natural coffees has been growing. 

“I don’t see natural processed coffees becoming less popular,” he says. “There are some fantastic producers and roasters who are devoted to natural coffee, just as there are those who focus more on washed coffees.”

Stephen echoes this sentiment, but points out that consumers’ tastes evolve over time.

“For people who are new to specialty coffee, natural processed coffees often captivate them with their distinct and unfamiliar flavours,” he says. “However, as your palate becomes more refined, the subtlety and complexity of washed coffees often become more apparent and appreciated.”

How consumer preferences affect processing at origin

Inevitably, the popularity of both washed and natural processing methods affects the coffees that producers grow and roasters sell. According to recent research conducted by Perfect Daily Grind, 52% of people surveyed said they prefer washed coffee, while 28% said natural processing is their favourite.

For the latter, Stephen explains, responding to changes is less challenging.

“It will affect their buying patterns as they try to either follow or get ahead of consumer trends,” he says. “Roasters have the advantage of being closely attuned to consumers, allowing them to navigate the market more easily.”

But producers may find it significantly harder to implement different processing methods, particularly smallholders who often have less access to capital. Investment is considerable and the financial risks can be high, which some farmers aren’t able to absorb.

“It’s very cost and time intensive to learn a new processing method,” Neil explains. “If producers aren’t certain there is a market for these coffees or the processing trials fail then it can be devastating for a small farm.”

Even more importantly, however, is the fact that geographical location and environmental factors can pose huge limitations on coffee processing.

“In countries with high rainfall and less open, flat space, naturals are a lot more difficult to produce, as they require extended periods of exposure to air and sunlight to dry and ferment evenly and consistently,” Stephen says. “In Rwanda, for example, natural processing was actually banned by the government for a long time as people thought it damaged the reputation and value of the country’s coffee.

“Because of this, quality naturals can now fetch high prices in Rwanda,” he adds. “But depending on a farm’s location, natural processing might be the only feasible option for a coffee producer.”

Innovation in coffee processing is ongoing

While both natural and washed coffees have their fans, there are more options available on the market than ever before.

Both Stephen and Neil tell me they have seen a huge rise in controlled fermentation techniques, which suggests more interest in a scientific approach to processing – similar to those in the beer and wine industries. 

Neil points out that experimentation with methods like anaerobic fermentation and yeast inoculation has been gathering speed for some time. Although implementing these processes can be tricky, it allows producers to control the flavours in their coffee when done right.

However, just like pivoting to a more conventional processing method, this can represent a significant financial risk for farmers. Similarly, the market for these coffees is limited and becoming more saturated – which needs to be considered.

With their distinct flavour profiles, washed and natural processed coffees will always have their place in the industry. But it’s also about more than flavour, as producers’ needs and access to resources are just as important.

The popularity of washed coffees and naturals will inevitably shift from time to time as consumer preferences change. Specialty coffee, however, should strive to embrace both – and be mindful that it shouldn’t chase continued innovation in processing at any cost.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how we really define experimental processing.

Photo credits: Origin Coffee Roasters, StoneX Specialty Coffee

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Washed vs natural processing: Why specialty coffee shouldn’t have a favourite appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Winemaking’s most noticeable influence in the coffee industry is certainly on processing methods. As coffee producers use more and more advanced and experimental processing techniques, we can see just how much knowledge and expertise specialty coffee has borrowed from the wine industry.

Its influence, however, doesn’t stop here. In addition to massively shaping coffee processing, the wine industry’s unique reliance on new and innovative technologies is swaying some coffee producers to follow suit.

To learn more about how winemaking could further impact specialty coffee, I spoke to Camilo Merizalde, founder and director of the Santuario Project, Carlos Pola, owner of the San Antonio, Las Brisas, and San Roque farms in El Salvador, and Doug Frost, Master Sommelier, Master of Wine, wine consultant, and writer.

You may also like our article on winemaking’s influence on coffee processing.

How has winemaking already influenced coffee processing?

Winemakers have developed their craft over centuries – if not millennia. Today, it’s an industry that blends history with scientific research, resulting in endless experimental practices that help to improve wine quality. Considering this, it’s no surprise that coffee producers draw inspiration from winemaking.

In addition to owning several coffee farms, Carlos Pola is also a coffee app developer. He explains that the wine industry has shaped coffee processing immensely over the years.

“Grapes and coffee cherries are very similar, and because winemaking dates back centuries, the wine industry has a lot of experience and practices that lend themselves well to specialty coffee,” he says.

Perhaps one of the most influential practices has been carbonic maceration. Popularised by winemakers, carbonic maceration relies on carbon dioxide to start the fermentation process. In the context of coffee processing, producers flush sealed, airtight tanks containing coffee cherries with CO₂. This removes any residual oxygen, and allows the microorganisms present in the tanks to break down the sugars in the cherries – resulting in more complex, bright, and winey coffees.

Camilo Merizalde is the founder and director of the Santuario Project in Colombia.

“Carbonic maceration has been a starting point to explore other advanced processing methods that are based on the same principles,” he explains. “We have explored this process by using microorganisms, such as yeasts and lactic bacteria, that accentuate specific characteristics.

“For example, we collected leachate from fermenting selected coffee cherries, and then added it to coffee mass – a technique also used in the wine industry,” he elaborates. For context, leachate is water that has percolated through a solid and extracted out some of its soluble or suspended solids.

“We also began to use carbonic maceration to make fruit juice that we use to induce fermentation in cherries and pulped coffee,” he adds.

More recent developments in experimental coffee processing

Advanced and experimental processing methods are some of the most exciting and innovative aspects of coffee production.

Since 2018, Carlos has collaborated with UK Barista and World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion Dan Fellows to develop his own new techniques. One particularly interesting example is cryo maceration – a cold fermentation method which Carlos says is used in the wine industry, too.

The technique works equally well for coffee. In fact, Dan used a cryo macerated coffee during his winning 2019 World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship routine. 

The process involved freezing Red Pacamara cherries for seven days before subjecting them to natural processing. Carlos adds that for this specific coffee, he and Dan sought to enhance the fruity, syrupy, and funky flavours.

Like cryo maceration, other new experimental coffee processing techniques are beginning to emerge in the specialty coffee industry. Here are a few examples:

Acetic fermentation

Prominent Colombian farm La Palma y El Tucan has been experimenting with the acetic process for some time now.

Producers use acetic acid bacteria to process pulped coffee in a high-oxygen environment. The cherries are continuously mixed throughout the process, which ensures the bacteria survives and multiplies. 

Some producers carry out a similar process by placing whole cherries under water in an open tank. Producers stir the cherries periodically, which encourages the growth of more acetic acid bacteria. When done well, this process can impart more fruity or floral characteristics in the coffee.

Thermal shock

Thermal shock processing is largely attributed to Diego Samuel Bermudez, who first introduced this method to the specialty coffee sector. It’s important to note, however, that thermal shock is not a type of fermentation, but rather an additional step in coffee processing.

During fermentation, temperature plays a crucial role in regulating the process. Producers must carefully control temperature to ensure the development of volatile aromatic compounds that give coffee its flavours and aroma. 

With thermal shock processing, producers wash coffee cherries after fermentation. In most cases, producers wash cherries in hot water (at around 40ºC or 104ºF) before immediately running them under colder water (at around 12ºC or 54ºF). This process can lead to very pronounced and intense flavours. 

The Duncan Estate wine process

Another practice from wine production that has been applied to coffee processing is the Duncan Estate wine process. This is when producers leave cherries on coffee plants for up to two weeks after maturing – essentially allowing some fruit to over-ripen. 

After harvesting the cherries, the producer sun-dries them for several days in a cool climate, usually over 1,600 metres above sea level to achieve the optimal conditions. The result is a uniquely fruity, fermented, and wine-like cup profile.

What else can coffee producers learn from winemaking?

While winemaking has definitely had the most impact on coffee processing, the wine industry is influencing specialty coffee in other ways. More recently, coffee producers have leveraged innovative technologies used in the wine industry to improve farming practices and distribution and business channels.

Moreover, utilising new technologies allows the coffee industry to bridge the gap between producers and consumers.

Doug Frost is a wine expert, and the founder and CEO of Echolands Winery in Walla Walla, Washington, US. He explains that in the wine industry, sharing information between producers and consumers adds more value to the supply chain.

“Sharing our stories with consumers is the best, and maybe the only, way to create brand loyalty,” he says. “Whether we use QR codes, e-labels, or any other technologies, we can start a conversation with our consumers that enhances their drinking experience.”

He adds that although blockchain technology is still nascent in the wine business – and equally so in the coffee industry – it massively helps to improve traceability.

“The idea that I may soon be able to find out who is drinking my wine is exciting,” he tells me. “The level of technology isn’t quite there yet, and there are privacy issues to consider, but if I had the opportunity to follow up with customers, that could forever change the relationships between wineries and their customers.”

Leveraging new technologies

In both the wine and coffee industries, sensor technology is incredibly important to ensure consistency and quality. For instance, sensors can track temperature, light, humidity, wind, and water availability levels.

“In our winery, we are using more sensors to gain more accurate feedback about fermentations, which also helps to improve efficiency,” he says.

However, he adds that relying on human expertise is still important: “I need people to still be sticking their noses in glasses, tanks, or barrels on a constant basis – that’s what matters most.”

Light detection and ranging (LiDAR) technology is also used in the wine industry, which uses remote imaging to map the structures of vineyards and farms. When combined with satellite imagery, drones, and on-the-ground technology, farmers can use it to efficiently gather data on ripeness, water stress, and diseases.

Although there are clear benefits to having access to these technologies, David reiterates that a human element is equally important.

“Some of these technologies will improve our work, and lead to better sustainable practices, but honestly, a lot of it is about replacing human labour,” he explains. “Is that a good thing? Not in my opinion. The old saying is, ‘the boots of the winemaker are the most important thing to have in your vineyard’.”

What’s more, these technologies are still expensive to implement. Although they can save costs and increase profitability in the long run, the initial investment is usually steep – especially for smaller producers. David says cooperation between farmers and more openness to share information and knowledge could help kick start the implementation of these technologies in specialty coffee.

“Theoretically, producers can band together to afford access to these technologies, although that is easier said than done,” he notes.

Looking ahead

Camilo explains that coffee producers who have the resources should consider exploring practices used in winemaking to differentiate themselves.

“I think exploring more about coffee cherry microbiology and the influence of terroir and variety on flavour – similar to what the wine industry does – will become a bigger focus in specialty coffee,”  he says. 

He believes that producers can benefit from winemaking techniques by gaining “new knowledge, thereby improving coffee quality”.

And as sustainability becomes more important to consumers, we could see both the coffee and wine industries change in the coming years.

“There was a time when consumers were generally unconcerned about mono-cropping and using chemicals, but not anymore,” Carlos says. “Wine drinkers are now asking questions about how grapes are grown, how workers are treated, and how wine is packaged. They want wines that align with their values, and their values are focused on a sustainable future.”

Winemaking continues to influence coffee producers and their processing methods. In time, the two industries may grow even closer – allowing producers to share more knowledge, technologies, and farming practices.

“As different kinds of fermentation and yeasts are explored in both the coffee and wine worlds, we can hopefully exchange more specific and accurate information,” Doug concludes. “With access to new technologies, we can find a way to focus more on the science.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article asking how we should really define experimental processing.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Specialty coffee could still learn more from winemaking appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

In fact, when it comes to processing methods in particular, it doesn’t take long to realise just how much specialty coffee producers draw inspiration from winemaking. We’re seeing the influence of the wine industry more and more in recent years, with producers using advanced processing methods more often – and thereby continuing to expand the range of flavours we can experience.

To learn more, I spoke to Camilo Merizalde, founder and director of the Santuario Project, and Carlos Pola, owner of the San Antonio, Las Brisas, and San Roque farms in El Salvador. Read on to learn what they had to share.

You may also like our article comparing coffee & alcohol production.

How has coffee processing changed in recent years?

For many specialty coffee professionals and enthusiasts, experimental processing is one of the industry’s most exciting topics. Although most coffee is processed using the three “traditional” methods – natural, washed, and honey – more advanced and novel techniques have been appearing at pace over the past few years.

We’re all well aware of how far coffee processing has evolved recently. But fewer of us may realise that winemaking has been key to this level of innovation.

For example, 2015 World Barista Champion Saša Šestić famously showcased carbonic maceration during his winning performance. He used the Sudan Rume variety which quickly caught people’s attention for its intense, fruity aromas, and heightened sweetness.

Saša’s WBC performance instantly thrusted carbonic maceration into the spotlight, and helped to generate even more interest in experimental processing. He wasn’t alone, however.

Camilo Merizalde is the founder and director of the Santuario Project, a specialty coffee producer and exporter with farms and wet mills in Colombia, Costa Rica, Brazil, and Mexico. Together with Saša, he developed the carbonic maceration process.

Similarly, 2019 World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion Dan Fellows won using a frozen fermented Pacamara coffee. Like Saša, Dan collaborated with another coffee processing expert: Carlos Pola.

Exploring the influence of winemaking

Wine and coffee share several fundamental similarities. First and foremost, their unique sensory qualities are influenced by several factors, including:

• Terroir
• Fermentation
• Processing methods

Terroir describes a group of location-specific environmental conditions that include climate, terrain, soil, farming practices, and the effects of local culture and heritage. Although winemakers first coined the term centuries ago, it’s now commonly used in the specialty coffee sector.

However, the biggest similarities between winemaking and coffee production are found in processing methods.

“So many of the processing methods we use in coffee are the result of trends in winemaking, as well as extensive research about the anatomy of the coffee cherry and all the ways we can modify and accentuate flavour and quality,” Camilo says.

Carlos tells me has been experimenting with carbonic maceration and cold fermentations since 2018. He believes that because winemaking is such an ancient profession, the coffee industry can learn so much from it.

“The characteristics of the fruits are similar and, most importantly, winemaking dates back centuries,” he explains. “The practices and protocols used in the wine industry can be replicated in the much newer specialty coffee sector.”

He adds that processing methods like carbonic maceration and cryo-maceration – both influenced by winemaking – help his coffee to stand out in an increasingly competitive market.

“These techniques have helped us differentiate our coffees through creating extraordinary sensory attributes and higher scores,” he explains. “In our experience, it helps us to enhance flavour profile and prolong the shelf life of coffee.”

Fermentation is key

Fermentation is a chemical reaction that uses enzymes to break substances down into simpler ones. Typically – as mostly in the case of anaerobic fermentation – it requires a total absence of oxygen and the presence of yeast or bacteria, sugar, and heat. 

In alcohol production, enzyme-producing yeasts break sugars down into ethanol and other compounds, which gives different alcoholic drinks their distinctive flavours and aromas. 

All processing methods involve some level of fermentation, but not all of them have an impact on sensory profile. Some producers ferment coffee to more easily remove the seeds from the skin and mucilage (like washed processing), while others will use fermentation to heavily influence tasting notes and mouthfeel.
When carried out under controlled conditions, fermentation can produce a highly diverse range of flavours in coffee.

Anaerobic fermentation

Anaerobic fermentation always occurs in a low-oxygen environment. Typically, producers de-pulp coffee (although not always) before sealing it in airtight tanks or other vessels. A valve is also used to expel gases created through the fermentation process.

In turn, this method substantially alters the final sensory profile. In most cases, the flavours tend to be more intense, highly complex, and rather unconventional – especially compared to washed coffees.
As a result of these more unique flavour profiles, anaerobic fermentation is becoming more common. Some do believe, however, that this process can lead to inconsistent results if variables aren’t controlled tightly enough.

Lactic fermentation

La Palma y El Tucan, a farm in Cundinamarca, Colombia, is widely believed to have championed the lactic fermentation process. Technically, it’s a variation of anaerobic fermentation because it also occurs in a low-oxygen environment. 

After sorting coffee cherries, producers seal them in tanks. The anaerobic environment encourages the growth of lactobacillus cultures – the same bacteria used in dairy production – which convert sugars into a lactic acid solution. 

Producers often kick-start the process by inoculating the tank with a starter culture. However, like other complex and extended fermentation methods, lactic fermentation can be difficult to execute successfully.

To avoid this, some producers add a salt solution during the processing stage to control the rate and level of fermentation. If done correctly, the process produces a very sweet coffee with a medium-to-high body, with more fruity and yoghurt-like flavours and mouthfeel.

Yeast-assisted fermentation

Yeast application (also referred to as yeast inoculation) is the processing method that is perhaps most directly influenced by winemaking. Humans have been using yeast to ferment food and drink for thousands of years.

Under the right conditions, certain yeasts will grow directly on the skin of coffee cherries. However, it’s important to differentiate between spontaneous (wild) fermentation and commercial inoculation. 

Like winemakers, coffee producers can choose whether to allow yeasts to develop naturally or to intentionally add them. There are advantages to both methods, so the decision often comes down to which method is most accessible and sustainable. In other cases, it’s more about achieving a specific outcome in terms of flavour and quality.

Similar to lactic fermentation, producers begin the commercial inoculation process by introducing a starter culture to the coffee cherries. Typically, producers will use Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is a type of yeast that works especially well for processing coffee. 

Spontaneous fermentation, meanwhile, happens much more slowly. It’s also less predictable, which means stricter quality control methods are essential to achieving good results.

Carbonic maceration and winemaking

Probably the most famous processing technique borrowed from winemaking – especially in specialty coffee – is carbonic maceration. In the 1930s, wine producers in France’s Beaujolais region helped the method become more well known.

Wine from this region is generally made using the Gamay grape, which results in light red wines with pronounced bitterness and acidity. Carbonic maceration softens the grapes, giving the wine a sweeter and fruitier bouquet.

Like other experimental processing methods, carbonic maceration uses fermentation to amplify certain flavour attributes, or even introduce new ones.

Firstly, producers de-pulp the coffee cherries before sealing them in plastic or stainless steel tanks. Next, they flush the tanks with carbon dioxide. This forces oxygen out through a one-way valve. 

During fermentation, the same valve allows other gases to escape. Finally, after a predetermined period of time, the producer places the coffee on raised beds so it can dry. Here, it undergoes further fermentation – similarly to natural processed coffees.

“Carbonic maceration gives us the opportunity to delve deeper into more complex flavours,” Camilo says.

However, he notes that while carbonic maceration is inspired by the winemaking process, there are some notable differences.

“One of the most notable is the concentration of the mucilaginous layer on both coffee cherries and grapes, as well as the microbial composition of both,” he adds. “We personally believe that the coffee industry is still lightyears behind the wine industry in terms of processing.”

What does carbonic macerated coffee taste like?

In a previous article for PDG, Saša explains that he uses carbonic maceration to “target specific microorganisms by controlling different variables during fermentation”.

“These variables include tank temperature, environment, time, yeast and bacteria esters, and many more,” he elaborated. “Doing so allows us to elevate the flavour profile of the coffee, raising its cup score and changing its taste in a specific way.”

One style of carbonic maceration encourages the growth of microorganisms like Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, which both produce acetoin. Saša says that this gives the coffee a creamy, buttery mouthfeel.

The microorganisms present in the fermentation tank break down the sugars in the cherries more slowly. This results in coffees with complex flavours – often described as bright and winey.

In Panama, where producers consistently grow high-scoring specialty coffees, innovation in carbonic maceration is a growing trend. Producers say the resulting coffees are more layered and complex than those processed using other methods. They also have higher levels of acidity and a wider range of flavours and aromas.

Considering humans have been drinking wine for much longer than coffee, winemaking has left an indelible legacy on coffee production. As more coffee producers experiment with methods like carbonic maceration, it’s likely that the industry will continue to lean on winemaking for inspiration.

“While we have been experimenting with wine for thousands of years, coffee processing with similar fermentation techniques has been around for just a few years, so there is much work to be done and many more years of experimenting,” Carlos concludes. 

“In the process, the possibilities for better and different profiles in coffee are enormous.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on experimental coffee processing in Panama.

Photo credits: Camilo Merizalde, Carlos Pola, Finca Campo Hermoso Quindio, Edwin Noreña

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Specialty coffee has the wine industry to thank for its influence on processing appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.