At auctions like BoP, washed Geshas have their own category, with natural Geshas and other varieties competing in separate categories. All categories perform well on the scoresheet and receive high prices.

Gesha’s exceptional cup quality and floral characteristics are often best highlighted by washed processing methods. In turn, washed Geshas tend to perform well at auctions like BoP.

There is, however, plenty of potential for diversity within Gesha, particularly in ongoing innovation in processing. In recent years, Panamanian producers have been experimenting with different techniques to create entirely new flavour profiles for Gesha without compromising its inherent cup characteristics.

To learn more, I spoke to David Disuanco, the marketing manager at Archers Coffee, and Kai Janson, a producer at Janson Coffee. 

You may also like our article on why there is no “best” origin for Gesha.

How Panama became synonymous with Gesha

Although it originated in Ethiopia and now grows in an increasing number of producing countries, Gesha is perhaps most commonly associated with Panama.

During the 1930s, researchers collected seeds from Ethiopia and sent them to Kenya and Tanzania, where the variety was first recorded as “Geisha” – a common variation of its name. In the 1950s, the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) sent some of the seedlings to the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Centre (CATIE) in Costa Rica.

CATIE then supplied the seeds to the Panamanian government, which distributed them to farms in Boquete. One of them was Hacienda La Esmeralda, which changed Gesha’s trajectory in the specialty coffee market in the early 2000s.

Led by the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama and first launched in 1996, the BoP competitions and auctions have allowed the country’s producers to firmly establish themselves in the specialty coffee market, showcasing truly exceptional quality Gesha.

At the 2004 auction, Hacienda La Esmeralda sold one of its Geshas for US $21/lb. This set a new world record for the highest price ever paid for a coffee and sparked international interest in the variety, which still persists today.

Increasing competition

David Disuanco is the Marketing Manager at specialty roaster Archers Coffee in Sharjah, the United Arab Emirates. The company consistently buys Panamanian Gesha and recently successfully bid on several coffees at the 2024 BoP auction.

“Over the years, we have seen more and more Panamanian producers strive to rank highly at the BoP competition,” he says. “Each year, the competition gets more challenging as producers become more meticulous, creative, and innovative with their farming and processing techniques. This drives all participants to improve and elevate quality continuously.

“Producers are also becoming more diligent with cherry selection, hand-picking and sorting only the ripest ones,” he adds. “They have facilities that allow them to control specific parameters, such as custom-built processing tanks and dark rooms for drying.”

Archers recently successfully bid on several coffees at the 2024 BoP auction and secured limited-quantity lots from more than 30 of the country’s most prominent estates. Archers’ co-founder, Head of Operations, and green buyer, Frederick Bejo, who is also the UAE’s 2024 Brewer’s Cup Champion, was invited as a guest cupper to this year’s auction. 

“This is our craziest Panama Gesha collection, maybe even the greatest coffee collection we have had and encountered to date,” he says.

Why do washed coffees perform so well at BoP?

Panama’s terroir makes its Gesha truly unique. The country’s volcanic soil and diverse terrain create distinct microclimates, resulting in incredibly complex and delicate flavours.

Kai Janson is a producer at the pioneering Panamanian farm Janson Coffee, with which Archers Coffee works closely.

“The country’s coffee sector is passionate and dedicated to continuous innovation, from pioneers like the Petersons, Lamastuses, and my family – the Jansons,” he says. “Producers pay close attention to every aspect of production, from soil health to fermentation to drying, to deliver the best possible cup.”

When grown at high altitudes, Panama Gesha has an exceptionally high cup quality, with nuanced floral, jasmine, and fruity aromas and tasting notes. To highlight these as much as possible, many producers opt for washed processing.

“Washed Panama Gesha is often considered the purest form of expression of the variety as it showcases terroir without having too much influence over the flavours in the cup,” Kai says. “It’s also one of the most challenging processing methods, but it elevates the status of Panama Gesha to an elite level.”

Exceptional cup quality with washed processing is clearly evident. At the 2023 BoP auction, a washed 96.5-point Gesha from Carmen Estate received an incredible bid of US $10,005/kg – one of the highest prices ever paid for coffee.

Embracing the diversity of Gesha through processing

While the washed process may remain the most popular processing method for Gesha, an increasing number of producers in Panama are experimenting with different techniques.

Many are finding success, too, receiving exceptionally high scores and eye-watering prices. At the 2024 Lamastus Family Estates auction, the farm sold a honey processed 3kg lot for US $40,554 – or US $13,518 per kilogram – breaking the world record beyond all expectations.

Some producers are pushing innovation even further beyond the traditional washed, natural, and honey processing methods. One example is Altieri Specialty Coffee, which works with Archers Coffee to develop pioneering new techniques that unlock a spectrum of flavours in Gesha. 

“River flow fermentation is a technique we experimented with during the 2022/23 harvest,” the Altieri team says. “We measured how temperature impacts bacterial activity and how heat transfers differently in liquid compared to air. To achieve this, we anaerobically fermented fresh cherries in sealed silage plastic bags under running water.”

The Altieri team explains how this helps maintain a consistent temperature of 12°C (54°F), whereas stagnant water would increase the temperature. To dry the coffee, the cherries are placed in a dark room maintained at 18°C (64°F).

“The river flow fermentation process results in a fruitier flavour profile instead of a wine-like one,” the Altieri team tells me. “To our surprise, the low-temperature fermentation created floral notes. The intensity increases as you extend the fermentation hours, but the floral notes remain, enhancing notes of jasmine and adding complexity to the cup.”

In addition to processing techniques, Panamanian producers are also focusing on other farm-level improvements. Some are planting new trees to produce better-quality coffee in the coming years, while others are pruning plants to optimise nutrient absorption to improve cherry development.

How roasters and coffee shops can showcase the best of Gesha

Buying Gesha can be an exciting venture for coffee shops and roasters, allowing them to showcase excellent coffee and unique flavour profiles. Moreover, as the variety is such a unique selling point, including Gesha on bar or as part of retail offerings helps cafés and roasteries to differentiate their brands.

There are many ways to source Gesha, but participating in auctions can be one of the most effective to gain access to high-quality lots with interesting cup profiles. In recent years, Panamanian auctions have included an increasingly wide range of processing methods, too. This allows coffee businesses to tap into the diversity of Gesha and offer new experiences to customers.

David explains that Archers Coffee recently purchased four lots at the 2024 BoP auction, including: 

• An Adaura Gesha that ranked seventh in the naturals category
• A Luis Santamaria lot which ranked eighth in the naturals and ninth in the varietals categories, respectively
• A washed lot from Janson Coffee’s Las Alpes Estate 
• The La Higa Private Reserve Janson Gesha lot

“We purchased these coffees as they were the best lots that suited both our needs as a business and our customers’ preferences,” he says. He adds that these specific coffees were selected for their vibrant floral, citrus, and tropical fruit notes, as well as a distinctive mix of red and purple cherries.

Cuppings as a useful tool

To introduce the local coffee community of roasters, baristas, and home brewers to the diversity of Panamanian Gesha, David explains that Fred led a BoP-style cupping at Archers Coffee. This allowed the company’s baristas and roasters to understand the complexity of these coffees on a deeper level, improving their skills and knowledge.

“As we consistently provide high-quality Gesha, consumer perception of quality also evolves and improves,” says David. “They ask more questions, become more curious, and start appreciating the effort that goes into the coffee. 

“They begin to inquire more about the producer, the processing methods, and even often overlooked details, such as how a producer’s coffee tastes different this year compared to last,” he adds.

Archers Coffee recently launched its Ultimate Panama Collection, including high-quality Gesha lots from more than 15 Panamanian producers. The first release features 22 lots from eight producers, with additional lots to be launched in the coming weeks.

As one of the most highly-prized varieties in the world, Gesha has made a long-lasting mark on the specialty coffee industry. Innovative processing methods and continuous investments in production are opening up new ways to experience this coffee.

Coffee shops and roasters can source Gesha processed in a range of methods to showcase the variety’s flavour diversity. By doing so, customers can experience Gesha in ways they never have before, giving coffee businesses a competitive edge.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why some roasters are willing to spend US $10,000/kg on Gesha.

Photo credits: Archers Coffee

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A relatively unknown arabica variety grown in Huila, Colombia, Papayo received its name from its coffee cherries which resemble the papaya fruit. There has been, however, some confusion about where Papayo comes from – which can create its own set of issues.

Similar to other “up and coming” varieties like Pink Bourbon and Ombligon, it wouldn’t be surprising to see Papayo on more competition stages in the coming years, but it’s clear we need to know more about this coffee for more market opportunities to appear.

I spoke to Sam Klein, green coffee buyer at Partners Coffee, Juan Andres Gutierrez, specialty supply chain coordinator at Sucafina, and Yonatan Gonzalez, CEO of Cuatro Vientos, to find out more.

You may also like our article on why the Ombligon variety could become more popular.

Where does Papayo coffee come from?

Like many other “rediscovered” arabica varieties that are popping at competitions and in high-end coffee shops, the exact origins of Papayo are largely unknown.

The variety mostly grows in Huila, Colombia – a prominent producing region in the southwest – but also in other parts of the country, such as Tolima and Quindio. 

Sam Klein is a green coffee buyer at Partners Coffee – a roaster in Brooklyn, New York which has experience sourcing and roasting Papayo. He says that understanding the main region where the variety grows is key to learning more about it.

“There seems to be an unusually high number of varieties in Huila which have ‘mysterious’ origins and unique flavour profiles,” he explains. “There are claims these coffees are genetically similar to Ethiopian landrace varieties.”

And there could be a relatively straightforward explanation for this.

Juan Andres Gutierrez is the specialty supply chain coordinator at Sucafina in Colombia – an international green coffee trader. He tells me there was a rumoured coffee research farm near the town of Acevedo, Huila, that was breeding and cultivating a range of varieties from around the world. 

“The project was supposedly abandoned, but the plants stayed behind,” he adds. “Since then, more and more unique varieties have been popping up around Huila.”

Papayo & Ombligon: Are they the same?

It was at the 2023 World Barista Championship when we saw Australian competitor Jack Simpson use Ombligon – another “rare” arabica variety grown in Huila. 

Since then, interest in this coffee has grown. Its name translates from Spanish to English as “belly button” as a result of the unique shape of the seeds (or beans). Its flavour profile tends to be incredibly complex, too.

But what’s even more interesting is that some people claim Ombligon and Papayo could be the same variety. This argument is made for a number of reasons, including that they are both specific to Huila, are similar in appearance, and are speculated to have close genetic makeup to Ethiopian varieties. 

According to World Coffee Research, however, this claim is unlikely to be true:

“World Coffee Research does not have evidence to verify that Papayo and Ombligon are the same variety. We have seen many conjectures over the years about niche varieties, but the only way to verify these stories is to genetically test multiple samples. For example, if test results showed that one plant that was supposedly Gesha actually turned out to be Bourbon then that would not be sufficient evidence to say all Gesha is Bourbon. It’s possible for trees to simply be misidentified or mislabelled.”

Ultimately, this means much more field research is needed to scientifically verify the genetic “fingerprint” – and thereby exact origins – of Papayo, but coffee professionals and enthusiasts alike are sure to keep speculating.

“The most compelling suggestion I’ve heard is that Papayo and Ombligon are similar mutations of Pink Bourbon – or of varieties from the same ‘mysterious’ origins as Pink Bourbon,” Sam notes.

How do producers grow and process Papayo?

Given its rather unusual shape, producers who grow Papayo must treat it differently to other arabica varieties. 

Yonatan Gonzalez is the CEO of Cuatro Vientos, a Colombian and US-based green coffee sourcing and exporting company which works with multiple producers who grow Papayo.

Miller Bustos – owner of Finca El Mirador in Huila – is one of these farmers. He has been growing coffee for over 20 years, and says he first learned about the variety when another farmer started to plant it and claimed it had excellent cup quality. 

“The beans are dense and large,” Juan says. “The cherry tends to be pointy and oval-shaped – almost resembling a papaya, hence the name. 

“It also produces high yields, and the plants which grow between 1,400 and 2,000 masl usually receive higher cup scores, and are then sold as microlots,” he continues.

When it comes to processing Papayo, a wide range of methods can result in desirable flavour profiles – although Sam tells me he has cupped mostly washed Papayo.

“While I personally prefer washed coffees, I think this processing method is a useful default for lesser-known varieties,” he says. “But I’m aware of people producing natural and honey processed Papayo, and even some anoxic fermented lots.”

What does it taste like?

Similar to its papaya-like shape, Papayo tends to have complex fruity and tropical tasting notes.

“So far, I’ve only had the opportunity to taste a handful of Papayo lots, but each one had an intense sweetness and a silky mouthfeel,” Sam says. “There are fruity notes of mango, pineapple, papaya, and stone fruits, like plum, cherry, and peach. 

“I’ve also experienced some really lovely spice and black tea notes,” he adds.

Yonatan agrees, saying: “There are yellow fruits, mango, tropical, and banana flavours, and it has a very juicy body and citric acidity.”

Juan, meanwhile, says the Sucafina team have also picked up on other tasting notes.

“We’ve recorded more fudgy and chocolate flavours, and very intense dulce de leche and caramel notes in the washed profile,” he explains. “When done right, natural processed Papayo still has caramel flavours, but with an added fruitiness – almost cherry-like.”

Roasting Papayo

If roasters want to sell more unique and exotic varieties such as Papayo, they often optimise roast profiles to best highlight the more desirable and stand out characteristics.

One key factor to consider is the bigger bean size, which generally means you need to roast the coffee for longer to fully develop the sugars, and therefore flavours.

“Because the beans are so large, it’s better to prolong the development stage of the roast process,” Juan suggests.

Sam says while he has limited experience roasting this variety, he has noticed common traits among different Papayo lots.

“It’s relatively easy to manipulate,” he explains. “I haven’t been too adventurous with end temperatures or development times, but I’ve found that this variety can tolerate different approaches well, while still showcasing all the attributes you’re looking for.”

A new competition coffee?

With its complex flavour profile, high yields, and adaptability to different processing methods, the potential for Papayo to perform well at competitions looks promising. 

In fact, Miller says the variety placed first at a local competition held a few years ago in Huila. Similarly, Yonatan tells me that some of his friends found success using a natural anaerobically fermented Papayo in other competitions.

For now, as this variety is mostly grown in and around the town of Acevedo in Huila, it’s clear that production needs to scale if we’re to see more of this coffee in cafés and roasteries. So naturally, the more the industry overall can learn about Papayo, the more likely it is that yields and quality will increase.

With its catchy name and complex and desirable flavour profile, Papayo could well become a new darling of specialty coffee.

Over the coming years, expect to see more World Barista Championship competitors showcasing this variety on the global stage. And in time, we may also start to see more roasters offering Papayo on their menus.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether Pink Bourbon is the new darling of specialty coffee.

Photo credits: Miller Bustos, Ruben Correa, Specialty Coffee Association

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There are, however, still some varieties which we know much less about. Nonetheless, they still have the potential to become more popular because of their unique flavours and high cup quality. 

Chiroso – a relatively unknown arabica variety – is one of these coffees. Although there is a lot of myth surrounding the origins of Chiroso, information about where it comes from is becoming more readily available. 

So given that interest seems to be growing in this variety, could we see it more often on stage at competitions? And could the market for Chiroso grow in a similar way to other varieties like Pink Bourbon or Sidra?

To find out, I spoke to Pedro Miguel Echavarría, manager at Pergamino, Emery Conger, co-founder of Shuv Coffee, and Lucas Cuadros, co-founder of Unblended Coffee.

You may also like our article on Pink Bourbon.

What is Chiroso & where does it come from?

As with many other rare varieties and species, the exact origins of Chiroso are unknown. It is, however, commonly grown in Urrao – a municipality in southwest Antioquia, Colombia.

Initially, Chiroso was believed to be a natural mutation of Caturra, but with longer-shaped cherries. Because of this, many local producers referred to the variety as Caturra Chiroso.

Pedro Miguel Echavarría manages Pergamino Coffee, a roaster and exporter in Medellín, Colombia – which also grows its own coffee. 

“Chiroso is a slang word in rural Colombia for something that’s slightly elongated,” he says. “It’s not a very common word, but because of the variety’s elongated beans, producers gave it that name.”

Some research institutions, however, have found that Chiroso is not related to the Bourbon-Typica group, which would mean it’s not a mutation of Caturra. Instead, the studies (which have yet to be scientifically verified) found Chiroso to be genetically linked to Ethiopian landrace varieties. 

Understanding Chiroso’s origins

Lucas Cuadros is a co-founder of Unblended Coffee, an importer that specialises in supporting young producers in Colombia. He tells me that he has carried out his own research about Chiroso in partnership with a research organisation.

Based on genetic testing, he also says Chiroso comes from an Ethiopian landrace variety. Moreover, Lucas has identified two types of Chiroso trees in Urrao: one with deep red cherries and the other one with more yellow fruit. Both trees also have different-shaped leaves. 

Even after conducting this research, it still remains unclear how the variety made its way from Ethiopia to Colombia.

“There has been no reliable research that explains it,” says Pedro. “It’s all part of the myth of the variety.”

Growing the variety

Pedro tells me he and his team discovered Chiroso in 2012 at a Cup of Excellence Colombia auction. He explains they decided to buy – and also grow Chiroso themselves – because of its desirable sensory characteristics and cup quality.

“We currently grow about 40 ha of Chiroso, and we have encouraged producers in other parts of Colombia to also plant it,” he says. “It grows similarly to Caturra, for example, but it’s very different from Castillo or Colombia, which are less productive at higher altitudes or colder temperatures. 

“The plant also has very similar characteristics to Caturra – short, light green leaves, large yields, and susceptible to coffee leaf rust (or la roya),” he adds.

What does it taste like?

Chiroso often stands out among green coffee buyers and roasters for its sweet and complex flavour profiles, much like Ethiopian landrace varieties and Geshas.

“It has a floral component that Geshas can also have, but Chiroso is often more herbal,” Pedro explains. “It also has more sweetness and more body than a Gesha.”

Emery Conger is a co-founder of Shuv Coffee, which has previously sold Chiroso sourced from Lucas’ farm. Shuv also sold a Chiroso produced by Carmen Cecilia Montoya – with all profits from sales going towards the Trans Mental Health Fund.

“The Chiroso coffees that I’ve tried have a silky mouthfeel, lots of floral notes, and a great balance of citric acid and sweetness,” Emery tells me.

Lucas, meanwhile, says the flavour and complexity of Chiroso can vary depending on where it grows. 

“When processed well, the variety has a well-structured cup profile, more so than Gesha in my opinion,” he tells me. “It has a silky body that a lot of the Geshas don’t have. Depending on the region it grows in, the flavour profile can range from a peach-like fruitiness to acidic like lemongrass.”

Roasting Chiroso

Emery says Chiroso is a more flexible coffee, so you can take a number of different approaches when roasting it.

“The Chiroso coffees we have roasted can handle a good amount of heat up front – probably thanks to its density, the elevation it’s grown at, and its Ethiopian genetics,” she tells me. “I would also recommend stretching out the Maillard phase to increase the sweetness.”

Could Chiroso become more popular?

Although Chiroso was discovered around the same time as Pink Bourbon – another “rediscovered” arabica variety grown in Colombia – it has yet to receive the same level of attention. 

The market potential for Pink Bourbon is only growing, with interest in this variety steadily rising year after year. It was also used by two competitors during the final round of the 2023 World Barista Championship – including winner Boram Um.

Pedro explains why he believes Pink Bourbon has slowly started to become more prominent in the specialty coffee market in recent years.

“When you play the popularity game, it creates a lot of noise,” he says. “It then becomes easier to sell these coffees. But less experienced cuppers may not be able to tell much difference between Pink Bourbon and Chiroso.”

Lucas, meanwhile, believes part of the reason why Chiroso is still relatively unknown in the wider industry is because it was considered to be a type of Caturra for many years.

“Producers were growing Chiroso because it produces high yields,” he says. “People weren’t aware that it had this amazing flavour profile.”

Potential challenges ahead

Despite its high yields and desirable sensory profiles, it’s clear there’s a way to go before we see more Chiroso available in coffee shops and roasters.

“The variety is definitely popular among the roasters that we work with – they are usually aware of it and want to buy it,” Pedro says. “But it’s the same with any other variety, there are some Chirosos that taste spectacular and some that aren’t so different from a standard Caturra.”

Lucas tells me that he has been working on a personal project to share more information about Chiroso with other Colombian producers.

“There’s a lot of value in growing Chiroso, but a lot of farmers don’t know enough about this variety,” he concludes.

The story of Chiroso is a fascinating one, and will no doubt continue to generate interest as we learn more about this unique variety.

It will take some time, however, before more producers start to grow this coffee and we see more available in the market. In the meantime, it wouldn’t be a surprise if more baristas start using it at competitions.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how ultra-rare varieties rise and fall.

Photo credits: Unblended Coffee, Santiago Caro

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We often associate Gesha with Panama – and for good reason. It was in this Central American country that producers discovered the variety’s huge potential in terms of quality. Gesha’s origins, however, are in Ethiopia, where it still grows today. Moreover, other countries have also started to produce Gesha – including Colombia and Guatemala.

This raises the question: is there a “best” origin for Gesha? Or is that impossible (or potentially even unfair) to answer?

To find out, I spoke to Adam Overton, general manager at Gesha Village and Ben Rowe, owner of Just Bru Coffee and Harmony Coffee Roasters.

You may also like our article exploring why some roasters are willing to spend more than US $10,000 per kg on Gesha.

Gesha: A history

Like its name, Gesha originates from the Gesha region of Ethiopia. According to the International Trade Centre Coffee Guide, Gesha is an Ethiopian landrace variety. In agricultural terms, this means it developed naturally to a specific local environment over many generations – most likely without any human intervention.

During the 1930s, researchers collected seedlings and seeds from Ethiopia and sent them to Kenya and Tanzania, where the variety was first recorded as “Geisha” – a common variation of its name. In the 1950s, the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) sent some of the seedlings (named VC496) to the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center (CATIE) in Costa Rica.

Subsequently, CATIE supplied VC496 seeds to the Panamanian government, which then distributed them to farms in Boquete. One of the farms was Hacienda La Esmeralda – the same farm that produced the 2004 Best of Panama-winning coffee that first sparked such huge interest in Gesha.

Since then, producers have built on Hacienda La Esmeralda’s initial success, which has fuelled consumer demand for Gesha. In fact, at the 2023 Best of Panama auction, a washed Gesha from Carmen Estate Coffee received 96.5 points and sold for US $10,005/kg (US $4,538.20/lb).

Today, breeders no longer consider Gesha an heirloom crop, but a variety. This means that over the past few decades, humans have intentionally cultivated Gesha to retain and display more of its desired genetic traits – mostly its incredible flavour profile.

What makes Gesha coffee so special?

Gesha often has a tea-like body, as well as complex fruity and floral flavours. As with any coffee, factors like region, climate, terroir, and processing method all affect its final cup profile.

Adam Overton is the general manager at Gesha Village, a farm in West Omo, Ethiopia. He explains why Gesha is so popular.

“Gesha has a very unique and complex cup profile that you can’t duplicate with other varieties,” he says. “Its signature profile is complex, with layered flavours of citrus fruit and florals and a pronounced flavour of jasmine.”

Ben Rowe is the owner of Just Bru Coffee (a premium coffee subscription service) and Harmony Coffee Roasters in York, UK. He believes that given its excellent reputation, his impressions of Gesha are somewhat skewed in relationship to it other varieties. He explains he almost always assumes several things when purchasing Gesha:

• It will likely cost significantly more than most other varieties in the same quality range
• The Geshas found on many roasters’ offerings are likely to have received at least 88 points on the Specialty Coffee Association 100-point scale
• It was probably sourced from a single producer or estate in Central or South America

“The importer incurs a lot of risk when selecting Gesha to put on its offerings,” he adds. “No doubt they have sampled many, many Geshas and have been meticulous when selecting exactly which ones to sell.

“For my entire coffee career, all the Geshas I have ever tried have been ‘the cream of the cream of the cream of the crop’,” Ben continues. “I think this makes it relatively unique among other varieties.”

Why is Panama the most well-known origin for Gesha?

Bigger and bigger auction prices increasingly put Panama under the spotlight as the Gesha origin.

“Panama had a head start in the specialty coffee market and it’s been great to see this unique variety get the recognition it deserves over the years,” Adam explains. “It’s also worth noting that Panama is considered the ‘best’ Gesha origin because there are many innovative farms and producers getting the best out of the variety. They do this by carrying out farming best practices and innovative approaches to processing that bring out unique qualities.

“But for people who want to taste the true origin of Gesha, they should try Ethiopian Geshas,” he adds. “We have our own unique microclimate that brings out its own distinct characteristics.”

Given its association with Panama, many people consider the country to be the “best” origin for Gesha. Ben, however, challenges these claims.

“For me, it’s akin to saying France produces the best wine, Italy makes the best espresso, or Belgium makes the best chocolate,” he tells me. “I think the statement ‘Panama is the best origin for Gesha’ is more in relation to the fame of Panamanian Gesha or a branding strategy from roasters rather than a claim of absolute quality. It’s certainly the most famous origin for Gesha.

“You can likely grow high-quality Gesha in any producing country if you have good weather conditions and you have good access to resources,” he adds. “It may be that Panama’s terroir is naturally better suited to growing Geshas, and that high-quality wet and dry mill facilities make no difference, but with all the exceptional Geshas we’ve seen in the last ten years that have come from other producing countries and farms who have made such investments, I would debate that.”

Where else does the variety grow?

Gesha can technically be grown anywhere along the Bean Belt, but producers will see varying levels of success. This is because there are many factors which affect coffee quality, and Gesha is particularly susceptible to most of them – including terroir.

“Because of the specific conditions needed to grow this variety, it’s difficult to produce the ‘classic’ Gesha profile outside of Panama, Ethiopia, and a few select farms across the world,” Adam explains.

Colombia has become something of a prominent Gesha origin in recent years – which has led many World Barista Championship competitors to highlight its potential on the global stage.

“Gesha can be grown pretty much anywhere that produces coffee,” Ben says. “Malawi, Colombia, Costa Rica, Mexico, Taiwan, Ethiopia, and Indonesia all grow Gesha.

“The variety seems to showcase its terroir extremely well, but the variety also has its own distinct hallmarks,” he adds. “Regardless of where it’s grown, it tends to express a signature combination of floral, citrus, and stonefruit characteristics.”

So what does it take to grow the “best” Gesha?

As with any other variety, factors like elevation, soil quality, microclimate, temperature, and rainfall all play a key role in producing high-quality coffee.

Adam suggests that altitude is one of the most important variables in determining Gesha quality. Ben, meanwhile, argues that access to finances and resources is the probably most crucial step.

Why access to resources & support is key

“If your goal is to produce very high-quality Gesha then you will likely need to have excellent wet mill and dry mill facilities,” he says. “Many producers also experiment with different types of fermentation, even down to selecting particular yeasts to inoculate with.

“Specialist labourers, consultants and highly-trained agronomists aren’t cheap either,” he adds. “You’ll likely need proper irrigation systems, access to water in case of prolonged drought, and an abundance of fertilisers. Producers may even need to forego income the first few years until the plants start to bear fruit, and then may have to take a hit if their crops fail. Very few producers are in that kind of a position. 

“That’s not in any way an attempt to discredit farmers producing at the highest level of quality possible,” he continues. “I’m aware of how much hard work and experience is needed, but I’m simply pointing out there’s a reason we don’t see more high-quality Malawian Geshas, and it’s unlikely to just be a direct result of what’s in the soil.”

It’s more than likely that Panama will forever remain the go-to origin for Gesha. The country’s relationship with this exclusive variety is unique, and has cemented its position as a global producer of high-quality Gesha.

There are, however, many other countries which grow Gesha – and some of them are becoming more prominent. But ultimately, without the right level of financial support and access to resources, some producers could struggle to reach the high standards set by Panama’s coffee sector.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on experimental coffee processing in Panama.

Photo credits: Gesha Village

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Although some Geshas still fetch eye-watering prices – like the 96.5 point washed Carmen Estate Gesha which sold for US $10,005/kg at the 2023 Best of Panama auction – it’s not uncommon to see the variety served in more high-end coffee shops around the world. Technically, Gesha is no longer an “ultra-rare” coffee.

In more recent years, specialty coffee roasters and competitors alike have started looking elsewhere for more exclusive coffees – think Wush Wush, Sidra, eugenioides, and Pink Bourbon, to name a few.

So why do these varieties (or species) start to become more popular? And why do some of them eventually start to fade into the background?

To find out, I spoke to James Fairbrass, green coffee buyer at Proud Mary Coffee in Portland, Oregon, US.

You may also like our article questioning why some roasters are willing to spend more than US $10,000 per kg on Gesha.

Gesha: a variety for the ages?

Many of us know the story of Gesha – largely considered the first ultra-rare coffee variety. First found in the Gesha region of Ethiopia in the 1930s, the seeds were eventually transported to research centres in Kenya and Tanzania – where the variety was first recorded as “Geisha”. 

It was during the 1950s that CATIE (the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Centre) in Costa Rica acquired Gesha seeds. By the 1960s, Don Francisco Serracín of Don Pachi Estate had planted the variety in the western parts of the Boquete region of Panama.

Over the course of the next four decades, more and more Panamanian producers planted Gesha, but it took some time for the industry to fully recognise its excellent quality potential and desirable sensory profile.

The breakthrough moment came at the 2004 Best of Panama auction when Hacienda La Esmeralda set a then-world record of US $21 for the highest amount paid for a pound of coffee. 

In the years since, it’s a huge understatement to say this record has been broken, as we have seen buyers pay increasingly more for Gesha at a number of auctions:

• Panama’s Ninety Plus sold an undisclosed micro lot for US $10,000/kg (or US $4,535/lb) at its own private 2019 auction
• At the 2022 Lamastus Family Estates auction, a honey processed Gesha produced by Elida Estate sold for an unbelievable US $6,034/lb. This equates to more than US $12,068/kg – by far the most expensive coffee in the world
• The highest bid at the 2023 Best of Panama auction was US $10,005/kg for a washed Gesha. In total 1,250kg of coffee received US $1,085,275, which set a new record for the Best of Panama auction

Why did it become so popular?

Once you taste Gesha, it’s easy to understand why it has become one of the most sought-after exclusive varieties. Its uniquely floral flavours and tea-like body make it one of the most exceptional coffees available on the market. Additionally, Geshas also often receive 90 points or above when scored using the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale.

As a result, many baristas and coffee professionals have opted for Gesha at some of the most prestigious coffee competitions over the past two decades, including the World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup.

Events such as these often have a direct influence on trends in the wider specialty coffee industry. As such, despite remaining relatively expensive, it’s become more common to see Gesha on the bar or retail shelves in some of the world’s more high-end coffee shops.

But has its popularity waned? 

We always see Gesha on stage at high-level coffee competitions. But its popularity at these events has noticeably dipped in recent years, particularly at the 2021 World Barista Championship and Brewers Cup where competitors were opting for even more exclusive varieties or species.

James Fairbrass is a green coffee buyer at Proud Mary Coffee in Portland, Oregon, US – a pioneering roaster which specifically focuses on more high-end coffees. 

He emphasises that when questioning whether Gesha has become less popular, looking exclusively at competitions doesn’t always provide us with the full picture.

“To look at barista competitions as an indicator for what’s popular in specialty coffee is quite a narrow view of the industry as a whole,” he tells me. “It’s a niche within a niche.”

James continues that in his experience, demand is actually higher than ever – with both roasters and consumers willing to pay more. 

“Just look at the vast majority of coffee auctions, from Cup of Excellence, to Best of Panama, to single producer private auctions,” he says. “The highest scoring – and often highest valued – coffees are usually Geshas.

“If the popularity of Gesha was waning, I’d argue that we would also see a decline in the amount of money that roasters around the world are willing to pay – and we’re simply not seeing that,” he adds.

The emergence of other ultra-rare varieties (and species)

Given that Gesha has become more widely available in specialty coffee shops in recent years, it’s fair to say we can’t really refer to it as an “ultra-rare” variety anymore.

We can, however, look at competition trends as an indication of which other exclusive varieties (or even species) could be on the rise.

Eugenioides

At the 2021 World Coffee Championships, this “forgotten” coffee species very much had the spotlight. Coffea eugenioides is a parent species of arabica, and is believed to have originated from east Africa.

Both the 2021 World Barista Champion (Diego Campos) and World Brewers Cup winner (Matt Winton) used eugenioides in their routines, with several other competitors also using it that same year. And there’s a reason for this: the species has a fascinating sensory profile – with strong notes of tropical fruit, high levels of sweetness, and a silky mouthfeel.

Although interest in eugenioides certainly remains, demand is still very low. Moreover, growing this species is especially challenging and yields are relatively small.

Sidra

Another variety that has quickly gained more popularity is Sidra. In 2019, Jooyeon Jeon used a Sidra from La Palma y el Tucán in her winning WBC routine. Likewise, Cole Torode – who placed third – used the exact same coffee.

Three years later, Sidra also won the World Barista Championship when Australian competitor Anthony Douglas used it in his routine.

The exact origins of Sidra are somewhat unknown. Many believe, however, that the variety originates from the Pichincha province in Ecuador. Claims about its origin vary from that it’s genetically similar to Ethiopian heirloom varieties to that it is the result of crossbreeding Typica with Bourbon.

But again, as with other more exclusive varieties and species, scaling production of Sidra is challenging – largely because it requires full-shade conditions and is highly susceptible to certain pests and diseases.

Pink Bourbon

During the final round of 2023 World Barista Championship, we saw two competitors use the Pink Bourbon variety – including the winner, Boram Um. Known for its slight pink hue and complex flavour profile (similar to Panamanian and Ethiopian coffees), interest in this variety has been growing for some time now.

There is, however, very little verified information available about its origins. Owner of Aromas del Sur Rodrigo Sanchez Valencia is often credited for helping to discover the variety. Recent research indicates Pink Bourbon is genetically linked to Ethiopian landrace varieties, but this study has not yet been scientifically verified.

The potential for more producers to grow Pink Bourbon is currently largely limited to Colombia, which means it will most likely take some time for production to scale.

Wush Wush

Originating from the Wushwush region of Ethiopia, the Wush Wush variety can now also be found in Colombia. With a fairly varied range of flavour notes (including blueberries, vanilla, maple, and lavender), this coffee became particularly popular a couple of years ago.

Proud Mary Coffee, meanwhile, has been buying Wush Wush from Nancy and Oscar Maca at Finca El Zafiro in Colombia since 2016.

“If people are still sleeping on Wush Wush, they need to wake up – it’s delicious!” James says.

In fact, Proud Mary sometimes sells Wush Wush as part of its “deluxe” range.

“We often see these coffees purchased for competitions or for special events, which is great, but it inevitably means that very few people actually get the opportunity to taste them,” he adds. “To sell more, we need to get more customers to taste them and realise that they are special coffees. And that’s where the deluxe menus in our cafés have had a huge impact.”

Laurina

In 2018, MAME Coffee co-founder Emi Fukahori used an anaerobically fermented Laurina for her winning World Brewers Cup routine. In partnership with Daterra (which produced the coffee), Emi helped to re-introduce specialty coffee to one of the most exciting varieties in some years.

As well as having a desirable flavour profile (including flavour notes of melon and citrus fruits), Laurina is also naturally low in caffeine. In turn, the variety has been a unique selling point for many roasters looking to offer higher-quality alternatives to decaf coffee. 

Laurina has definitely become more popular in recent years, so it’s not exactly “ultra-rare” in comparison to other varieties and species. But it’s still difficult to grow at scale – mostly because it contains less caffeine, which is a natural pest repellant.

Are ultra-rare varieties destined to rise and fall?

Competitions will always continue to have an impact on which rare varieties and species become popular in the wider specialty coffee sector. And with competitors always looking for the “best” coffee to use during their routines, it’s becoming more important for them to rediscover more unique coffees.

“As an industry, we’re always searching for something new and exciting,” James says. “Innovation has always been a part of the specialty coffee industry. From what we’re seeing, the varieties that people are looking to experience are a part of that mindset, too.”

However, considering that Gesha has seemingly fallen out of favour with competitors, is it inevitable that other varieties will face the same fate?

For most of these “rediscovered” coffees, there is still a lot of potential for them to remain in the spotlight. What’s more, outside of competitions, it’s likely that they will stay popular for even longer – but production of these coffees will remain low for the foreseeable future.

Based on James’ experience at Proud Mary Coffee, demand for Gesha continues to be high – so it’s possible that the same will apply to other ultra-rare varieties.

“We’re selling more Gesha than we ever have before,” he asserts. “Both as pour overs in our coffee shops and through our e-commerce platforms.” 

The impact of experimental processing methods

In conjunction with a growing interest in more exclusive and ultra-rare coffees, there has been a rise in more experimental and advanced processing techniques. These methods can have a huge impact on flavour and mouthfeel, and open up new possibilities when it comes to experiencing coffee.

They can, however, often mask the innate characteristics of coffee, which can pose challenges when it comes to more delicate varieties and species.

“As an industry, we have spent the better part of the last 25 years telling our customers that origin, variety, terroir, and processing are all important – that these are the things that make coffee special,” James explains. “With the rise in popularity of experimental processing, I worry that we’re going to lose a lot of that.”

The range of ultra-rare and exclusive coffees is continuing to grow. And if Best of Panama prices are anything to go by, some roasters are still willing to pay a premium to secure them. 

“We’re going to continue buying as much deluxe, rare, and exotic coffees as we can, and we’ll find ways to sell them,” James concludes.

But whether these varieties and species will retain their levels of popularity – or eventually begin to fade – remains to be seen.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring whether coffee competitions are moving away from Gesha.

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During the final round of 2023 World Barista Championship, we saw two competitors use the Pink Bourbon variety. Known for its slight pink hue and complex flavour profile, interest in this variety has been growing for some time now.

There is, however, very little verified information available about the origins of Pink Bourbon – which of course restricts our understanding of this unique variety.

But given that more and more roasters and coffee shops have started to offer this coffee in recent years, does it have potential to reach the same heights as Gesha or other similar varieties?

To find out more, I spoke to Rodrigo Sanchez Valencia, a producer at Finca Monteblanco and Aromas del Sur, Boram Um, co-owner of Um Coffee Co. and Fazenda Um, and Isaiah Sheese, owner of Archetype Coffee. Read on to learn what they had to say.

You may also like our article on the Ombligon variety.

What is Pink Bourbon & where does it come from?

Like many other new or “rediscovered” arabica varieties (or even species), the exact origins of Pink Bourbon are unknown.

Rodrigo is a producer and the owner of Aromas del Sur – a co-operative which unifies all the farms he owns and manages. He is often credited for helping to discover the Pink Bourbon variety.

“As part of a joint effort with importers and exporters that we were working with at the time, the Aromas del Sur team found Pink Bourbon in 2013,” he says. “We believe it’s native to southern Huila in Colombia.”

According to Rodrigo, the variety first appeared in the San Adolfo area of the Acevedo municipality in Huila during the 1980s.

“There is no verified information about its specific origins,” he tells me. “When coffee leaf rust (la roya) first appeared in the region in the 1980s, more producers started to grow this variety unknowingly because it was resistant to the disease – and was highly adaptable to its environment and produced higher yields.

“We were one of the first producers to grow Pink Bourbon as a commercial crop, so we set out to find other farmers who were growing smaller quantities and were unaware of its quality potential,” he adds.

Dispelling prior claims about Pink Bourbon

It’s common to hear that Pink Bourbon is a natural hybrid of Red and Yellow Bourbon varieties. However, recent research is likely to have disproved this theory.

In late September 2023, Café Imports published an article stating that after conducting genetic testing in partnership with RD2 Vision, Pink Bourbon is likely to have come from an Ethiopian landrace variety.

However, it’s important to note that this research has not been scientifically verified, so the variety’s exact origins and heritage can’t be known for certain.

Growing Pink Bourbon

Even in optimal environmental conditions, Pink Bourbon is challenging to grow successfully. Not only do producers need to meticulously maintain plants, they must also isolate them from other varieties to ensure successful cross-pollination.

Rodrigo, meanwhile, says Pink Bourbon’s resilience and productivity are beneficial. 

“To date, we’re not aware of any diseases which it’s susceptible to,” he explains.

Boram is the 2023 World Barista Champion, and used Pink Bourbon from his farm in Brazil in his winning routine. He tells me his experience growing this variety is very different to Rodrigo’s – possibly due to different terroirs in Brazil and Colombia.

“Pink Bourbon is very susceptible to certain diseases and fungus, which is why we grow it in a controlled and safe environment,” he says.

Isaiah Sheese placed fourth at the 2023 World Barista Championship, and also used Pink Bourbon. He says he has noticed subtle differences in the variety’s physical characteristics.

“Some cherries are longer and thinner like Gesha or Ethiopian landrace varieties,” he explains. “However, we have also seen cherries which are rounder, and therefore more dense – which could be a result of growing at a higher elevation.”

One of the variety’s most distinctive traits, of course, is its slight pink hue.

“The cherries are orange or salmon-coloured,” Rodrigo says. “The plants also have more elongated leaves, which are light green or yellow-green in colour. Newer leaves start off as more orange coloured.”

What does it taste like?

Pink Bourbon not only stands out for its strikingly-coloured cherries, but also for its sweet and complex flavour profile.

“It’s usually more acidic – like citrus fruit flavours – with delicate notes of white florals and honey-like sweetness,” Boram says.

Isaiah agrees, telling me: “Pink Bourbon usually cups similarly to washed Ethiopians or Panamanian Geshas – with floral, pink lemonade, honeysuckle, and jasmine flavour notes, and a very elegant silky texture.”

Rodrigo, meanwhile, often picks up more tropical tasting notes.

“It’s a very complex coffee, with flavours of peach, papaya, and melon, as well as more floral notes such as jasmine, rose, and green tea,” he says. “It’s a very balanced coffee in terms of body and acidity.” 

Using different processing techniques to highlight certain flavours

Similar to other varieties, choosing specific processing methods can help make Pink Bourbon stand out even more.

Rodrigo explains he has found that Pink Bourbon cherries contain higher amounts of sugar (or have a higher Brix level) than other varieties, which makes them adaptable to different processing methods.

“We can use a diverse range of processing techniques, ranging from conventional methods to more unique processes, such as cold fermentations and thermal shock,” he tells me. “Personally, in terms of improving complexity, I prefer using cold fermentation.”

For Boram, the variety’s stand-out flavour profile worked well with anaerobic fermentation – which led him to choose it for his WBC routine.

“I’ve found that anaerobic fermentation processing methods bring out its best potential, but the key factor is drying the cherries properly,” he says. “We slowly dry the coffee in a temperature and humidity-controlled dark room with no UV light.

“We then manage to highlight more of the sweet floral and honey notes,” he adds. “Pink Bourbon is a fairly new variety to Brazil, so it’s important that more producers try growing it, too.”

For his World Barista Championship performance, Isaiah used a Pink Bourbon sourced by one producer (Lucy Galindez of Finca Bella Vista in Colombia), and then processed by another (Diego Bermudez of Finca El Paraiso). Diego is well-known for creating the thermal shock process.

“We have always loved fully washed Pink Bourbon,” Isaiah says. “But when we tasted it using Diego’s two-stage thermal shock fermentation, it elevated the flavour notes even more. We were blown away.”

Roasting Pink Bourbon

With roasters offering more and more unique varieties, they often need to tweak their roast profiles accordingly to get the best results – and Pink Bourbon is no exception.

Isaiah worked with his team at Archetype Coffee to roast his competition coffee, which was roasted for espresso. 

“Compared to washed Pink Bourbon, the two-stage thermal shock processing method definitely changes how this coffee reacts to heat when roasting – it’s similar to a natural process coffee,” he says. “While washed coffees generally require a more aggressive and upfront approach, you need to be more gentle when you start roasting thermal shock processed coffee.

“What’s more, we used the Stronghold S7 to roast my competition coffee, which is a very different style of roaster than a traditional drum machine because it also includes a halogen-powered heat source,” he adds.

Boram also had to adjust his roasting technique for his Brazilian Pink Bourbon – which he explains was largely because of different climatic conditions.

“Coffees in Brazil are usually grown at lower altitude in a different kind of terroir, so they tend to be less dense,” he tells me. “So we roasted the coffee for longer using lower temperatures to make sure it developed properly.”

Could the market for Pink Bourbon grow in the coming years?

It’s clear the market potential for Pink Bourbon is huge, with interest in this variety steadily rising year after year. But considering that some farmers face a number of challenges when it comes to scaling production, we may not get to see the variety in as many coffee shops and roasteries as we would like in the coming years.

Rodrigo, however, is hopeful that Pink Bourbon has a permanent place in the Colombian specialty coffee sector.

“Pink Bourbon will remain one of the most important varieties in our market,” he says. “We are proud to be the pioneers of growing this coffee.”

Boram also believes the success Rodrigo and other Colombian producers have experienced with this variety could help increase its production – as well as in other countries.

“Given that Colombia produces such high-quality Pink Bourbon, I hope this will increase peoples’ interest in this variety, including in Brazil,” he concludes.

Specialty coffee is always on the lookout for the latest “it” variety, and now more than ever, there are many options to choose from. 

Pink Bourbon is eye-catching for a number of reasons, including its complex and desirable flavour profiles. As a result, there is certainly potential for this variety to become a new darling of specialty coffee – but this may take some time.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the Typica Mejorado variety.

Photo credits: World Coffee Events, Specialty Coffee Association, Aromas del Sur

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At the 2023 WBC, meanwhile, several of the top six competitors chose to use lesser-known varieties – including winner Boram Um with Pink Bourbon and second runner-up Jack Simpson with Ombligon. 

Representing Hong Kong, fourth runner-up Dawn Chan also used a more exclusive variety called Typica Mejorado. Dawn sourced the coffee from Finca Soledad in Ecuador. 

Not much is known about the origins of Typica Mejorado, nor its market potential. To learn more about this variety, I spoke with José Pepe Jijón, the owner of Finca Soledad. Read on for more of his insight.

You may also like our article on Ombligon coffee & whether it could become more popular.

Where does Typica Mejorado come from?

Similar to the Sidra variety, it’s believed Typica Mejorado (also referred to as Typica Mejorada) originated from a Nestlé breeding facility in the Pichincha province of Ecuador.

Pepe Jijón is a first generation coffee farmer. At Finca Soledad, he grows Sidra and Gesha, as well as Typica Mejorado.

According to what many coffee professionals believe, he tells me researchers at the Pichincha breeding lab imported different coffee seeds (mainly sourced from Ethiopia) to develop new F1 hybrid varieties which produced both high yields and good cup quality.

Following this, it’s said that Don Olger Rogel – who was a field technician working at the lab at the time – identified two seeds which resulted in the most desirable sensory profiles. He named them Sidra and Typica Mejorado, and helped to disseminate seeds to farms in Ecuador.

“Don Olger provided our co-op with the first Typica Mejorado seeds in Ecuador,” Pepe says. “I was lucky enough to plant them on my farm in 2010.”

Although it’s certainly similar in name to Typica, Typica Mejorado is not related to this variety. It’s likely to have been given this name as its sensory profile is very similar to Typica, but often with more complex and expressive flavour notes. 

Where is Typica Mejorado grown?

While Typica Mejorado is mainly produced in Ecuador, the variety is also grown in Costa Rica and Colombia. The plants are typically tall, but produce low yields. 

Pepe explains the plants look very similar to Gesha.

“You wouldn’t be able to tell the difference if you had a Typica Mejorado plant next to a Gesha plant,” he says.

The seeds (or beans) of Typica Mejorado plants, however, are not all the same size. Some tend to be longer (similar to Gesha), while others are much smaller. Pepe explains this is because altitude and terroir have a big impact on how Typica Mejorado plants develop and grow.

Some of the oldest Typica Mejorado plants are found in Ecuador, including at Finca La Soledad. 

“I still have some of the mother trees which I continue to take seeds from because they have adapted so well to the terroir,” Pepe says. “However, just like Gesha and heirloom varieties, Typica Mejorado is very susceptible to environmental changes, such as excessive rain and exposure to sunlight. 

“The plants tend to also have a poor root system, similar to Gesha again,” he adds. “But after growing Typica Mejorado for 13 years, the variety has evolved to become more resistant to certain pests and diseases.”

Common sensory profiles

Generally speaking, Typica Mejorado has a very interesting and unique flavour profile. In fact, some coffee professionals say they even prefer it to Gesha.

“The variety has very clean citric and red fruit notes, and is very similar to Gesha in terms of flavour,” Pepe says. “You can really play around with this coffee and use different processing techniques, and allow it to really shine.”

At the 2023 WBC, Dawn Chan of Wanwan Coffee Roasters (who placed fifth) used Typica Mejorado from Finca Soledad. During his routine, Dawn said he chose the variety because it was a new sensory experience for him, and also allowed him to improve his brewing skills. 

The specific coffee Dawn used was Typica Mejorado tyoxidator. This is named after a processing technique used at Finca Soledad which is similar to the washed method.

“The coffee tastes amazingly sweet, which is why people love it,” Pepe explains. “Essentially, we aerobically ferment the cherries in open containers and then depulp them. Following this, we anaerobically ferment the coffee in the mucilage to create a very sweet coffee.”

Lastly, the coffee is washed and then dried.

Pepe points out it’s important to not submerge the cherries in water at the beginning of the tyoxidator processing method.

“We don’t wash the cherries because I think it’s invasive to the flavours in the coffee,” he tells me. “Instead, we want all the yeasts and natural bacteria in the fermentation tank to influence the flavours in the coffee.”

When it comes to roasting, Pepe says Typica Mejorado doesn’t need a specific roast profile. He suggests tweaking roast development according to the different sizes and densities of the beans.

Is there a wider market for Typica Mejorado?

The quality potential for Typica Mejorado is undeniable. But could we start to see it more often in specialty coffee shops?

Given that it produces such low yields, it’s unlikely that Typica Mejorado will appear on more coffee shops menus in the near future. However, as well as being used at the 2023 WBC, the variety also placed first, third, and fourth at the 2021 Cup of Excellence competition.

“People around the world are asking for Typica Mejorado seeds,” Pepe says. “I think it’s a result of the coffee’s beautiful flavour profile and the hard work of farmers in Ecuador who have been able to showcase what these coffees can do.”

Pepe tells me that Dawn’s routine at the 2023 WBC is not only highlighting Typica Mejorado, but also the quality potential of Ecuadorian coffee. He explains this is encouraging a new generation of young people to work in coffee production.

“My son is 18, and five or six years ago, he didn’t want to work in coffee because he saw how I was struggling,” Pepe says. “But now that I’m receiving support from the international specialty coffee community and improving the marketing of my coffee, my son is helping me on the farm. 

“I’m not sure that he will work in the coffee sector in the long term, but he is certainly falling in love with coffee thanks to Typica Mejorado and Sidra,” he adds. 

A similar path to Gesha?

As for its market potential in the future, Pepe believes Typica Mejorado could become as popular as Sidra. This variety has become more well known following 2022 World Barista Champion Anthony Douglas using it in his winning routine, with seemingly more and more specialty coffee shops serving it.

Moreover, Pepe thinks Typica Mejorado may follow a similar path to Gesha.

“Gesha wasn’t so popular when it was grown in Ethiopia or Costa Rica, but it became very famous when produced in Panama,” he says. “It took 20 to 25 years for producers to start showcasing more of its highly floral characteristics.

“I think Typica Mejorado and Sidra are on the same path,” he adds. “We haven’t yet discovered the full potential of Typica Mejorada and Sidra because we’ve only been growing them for ten years, but they are already showing great promise.”

Like with many other more exclusive varieties, excitement about Typica Mejorado is growing in specialty coffee. With such high quality cup potential, it’s certainly a coffee we should pay attention to.

However, with smaller yields and plants which grow different-sized beans, it’s unlikely that producers in Ecuador and beyond will be able to sustainably scale production any time soon.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on Sidra coffee.

Photo credits: Jose Pepe Jijon, Specialty Coffee Association

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It’s clear that specialty coffee sees plenty of potential with the quality of these varieties. In turn, the market for high-quality low-caf coffee is slowly but steadily growing. 

Another coffee variety which is naturally low in caffeine is AC1. First discovered in Ethiopia, the Instituto Agronômico de Campinas (IAC) has carried out extensive research on this coffee to better understand its market potential. And there have been some promising results, too.

To learn more about AC1, I spoke to Dr. Julio Mistro, a researcher at IAC, and Kenean Dukamo, head of coffee at Ethiopian exporter Daye Bensa. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on Laurina coffee.

Where does AC1 come from?

Like other low-caf varieties, AC1 is naturally low in caffeine. Comparatively, AC1 contains around 0.76mg of caffeine per gram of coffee, while arabica contains an average 8 to 12 mg/g.

So where does AC1 come from?

Around 60 years ago, a group of agronomists and researchers from the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation travelled to Ethiopia. The group collected 621 variations of arabica seeds, which were shared with research institutes around the world. These included the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center (CATIE) in Costa Rica.

Dr. Alcides Carvalho – a researcher at the IAC at the time – requested some of the seeds sent to CATIE, which were planted at Fazenda Santa Elisa in Campinas, Brazil in 1973. Some 26 years later, IAC researcher Maria Bernadete Silvarolla identified three arabica plants which produced coffee with very low caffeine content. These were the AC1, AC2, and AC3 varieties.

Dr. Julio Mistro leads the research project on Fazenda Santa Elisa. 

“AC1 is a tall plant with less angular branches [than other coffee plants], and produces relatively low yields,” he says. “The variety is moderately tolerant to coffee leaf rust, but is very sensitive to higher temperatures and dry conditions.”

Research on the AC1 variety

In a 2011 study titled Characterisation of AC1: A naturally decaffeinated coffee, IAC researchers compared AC1 to Mundo Novo. This variety is a natural cross between Bourbon and Typica which is popular in Brazil. Researchers chose Mundo Novo because of its relatively low caffeine content (between 1% and 1.2%).

Researchers compared a number of factors between the two varieties, including the development of:

• Cherry growth
• Sugars
• Organic acids
• Amino acids
• Phenolic compounds

Although AC1 cherries are smaller than Mundo Novo, there are many similarities in chemical composition between both varieties. Ultimately, this has led researchers to conclude there is potential for the AC1 variety in the global coffee market.

Is there a place in the market for low-caf varieties?

While naturally low-caffeine varieties are a relatively new discovery in the global coffee industry, decaffeinated coffee is immensely popular. According to research firm SkyQuest, the value of the global decaf coffee market will reach US $28.86 billion by 2030.

Although moderate caffeine consumption is safe for most consumers, there are many reasons why people choose to drink decaffeinated coffee. These include allergies and health concerns – especially about the processes used to remove caffeine from green coffee.

These concerns largely stem from past processes which used chemical solvent methyl chloride to remove caffeine. When consumed in high amounts, methyl chloride can potentially be toxic – which has led many companies to stop using this chemical solvent altogether.

Different decaf processes

Today, there are a number of safe ways to decaffeinate coffee, with each one having its own impact on coffee flavour and quality. The most common method is the Swiss Water process, which has been in commercial use since the 1970s.

The Swiss Water process uses fresh water containing soluble compounds from green coffee (apart from caffeine, which is removed using a carbon filter). This mixture is referred to as green coffee extract (GCE).

Green coffee is then soaked in this mixture for up to ten hours, which allows the caffeine compounds to transfer from the green beans to the GCE. This leaves around 0.01% caffeine content.

For many specialty coffee professionals, the Swiss Water decaf method preserves most of the coffee’s inherent characteristics. Moreover, it’s one of the safest and most natural ways of removing caffeine from green coffee.

Other methods include:

• The Mountain Water Process, developed by Descamex
• Carbon dioxide method
• Descafecol’s sugarcane method

Given that the various decaffeination processes can affect coffee quality and flavour profile in different ways, there is certainly more market potential for low-caf varieties. As these coffees are naturally low in caffeine, they don’t need to be chemically treated or modified. This means there is potential to preserve quality and flavour as much as possible.

Could AC1 become more popular?

With interest in low-caf varieties like Laurina and Aramosa growing in the specialty coffee sector, is there the same potential for AC1?

Although more research is needed to answer more definitively, it’s clear that low caffeine levels can be detrimental to the growth of AC1 and other low-caf coffees. This is because caffeine acts as a natural repellent against insects and pests, so coffee plants which contain less caffeine can die more quickly. In turn, despite growing interest from specialty coffee roasters and consumers, there is little incentive for producers to plant low-caf varieties.

“The IAC doesn’t recommend commercial production of AC1, and we have never distributed seeds for commercial planting,” Julio tells me. “AC1 needs different treatment compared to other varieties in Brazil, including more fertiliser application and irrigation, as well as more intensive weed, pest, and disease control methods.

“Even with these strict measures, which also cost more money, yields would still be low,” he adds. “We would need to carry out more complex studies to better understand how to scale AC1 production sustainably.”

Using low-caf varieties to diversify production

In light of the challenges associated with growing AC1 and low-caf varieties, agronomists are using these coffees to determine future market potential.

“The IAC has cross pollinated AC1 with other prominent Brazilian arabica varieties, including Catuaí, Mundo Novo, Obatã, and Ouro Verde,” Julio explains. “We then developed new cultivars with not only high yield potential, but with caffeine levels between 0.03% and 0.10%.”

Julio adds that the IAC is carrying out regional trials to select which plants could be best for commercial production.

“It will take around six or seven years to conduct these tests successfully,” he says. “We are open to collaborating with companies that are willing to invest in the final phase of the programme.”

In June 2023, the IAC reported it had planted several of these low-caf varieties on farms across Brazil, with results already seeming promising.

“The aim of the programme is to develop varieties that are more productive than Laurina, but have even lower levels of caffeine,” he tells me. “On average, Laurina contains about 0.6% caffeine, but produces very low yields and is highly susceptible to several diseases.”

Kenean Dukamo, who placed second at the 2022 Cup of Excellence Ethiopia competition, tells me that while he doesn’t grow AC1 or other low-caf varieties, there is certainly interest in doing so.

“We would be open to growing a coffee variety that is naturally low in caffeine, so we could sell it as an alternative to decaf,” he says.

Innovation is rampant in specialty coffee, and this includes expanding and diversifying the market for low-caf varieties like AC1. While it’s clear that more research is needed to better understand how to scale production of these coffees, roasters and consumers alike are increasingly showing interest.

But ultimately, for producers to grow more naturally low-caffeine varieties as sustainably as possible, it’s important they receive the right level of support and guidance.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether low caffeine varieties could replace decaf.

Photo credits: Julio Mistro, Kenean Dukamo

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The 2023 World Barista Championship was no exception to this trend, with many of the six finalists using unique coffees in their routines. For example, Australia’s Jack Simpson (who placed third) used Ombligon for his espresso, milk, and signature beverage courses. 

Ombligon is a relatively unknown arabica variety grown in Colombia, but interest in this coffee is certainly growing following this year’s WBC. In line with this, is there potential for the market for Ombligon to grow in the coming years?

To find out, I spoke to Jack Simpson and Juan Pablo Campos. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on Sidra coffee.

What is Ombligon and where does it come from?

Like many other rare arabica varieties, the exact origins of Ombligon are unknown. Currently, Ombligon only grows in Huila, Colombia – a prominent producing region in the south west of the country.

The name “Ombligon” – which translates from Spanish to English as “belly button” – comes from this variety’s unique shape.

Juan Pablo Campos is a founding partner of Lohas Beans, a specialty coffee exporter in Colombia. Lohas Beans works closely with Nestor Lasso at Finca El Diviso – a well known Colombian coffee producer who grows several different unique arabica varieties, including Ombligon.

Juan explains that he and other coffee professionals believe Ombligon is related to an Ethiopian heirloom variety. He adds that because the variety is a natural mutation, it also shares similar traits to other native Colombian coffee varieties.

“Ombligon has similar characteristics to Caturra, such as wide leaves, cherries which grow close together, branches which grow vertically, and high yields,” he tells me. “However, many Colombian coffee professionals agree that Ombligon could be a natural mutation of other varieties like Pacamara, Bourbon, or even Castillo – mostly because of the high yield potential and resistance to coffee leaf rust.”

Producers in Huila, Colombia grow Ombligon at different altitudes, but between 1,600 and 1,800 m.a.s.l. tends to work best.

Jack Simpson is the Head of Quality Control & Sales at Axil Coffee Roasters in Melbourne, Australia. He is also the 2023 Australian Barista Champion. He tells me he first came across Ombligon a few months before the 2023 WBC while sampling coffees from Finca El Divisio. 

“I was intrigued,” he says. “I had never heard of this variety before and it had a very unique flavour profile.”

Growing and processing the variety

Juan explains that Ombligon isn’t particularly challenging to grow. This is mostly because it produces high yields and is fairly resilient to certain diseases – particularly coffee leaf rust (or la roya).

However, there are still important considerations to factor in when growing Ombligon.

“It produces rather large beans, so producers who aren’t used to this could end up breaking or chipping some of them when using traditional depulpers for washed processing methods,” Juan says. “To avoid this, you need to properly adjust depulpers to accommodate the larger beans.

“Ombligon is also denser than other varieties, with less ‘floaters’ or non-developed beans present in floatation tanks,” he adds.

When it comes to processing methods for Ombligon, there has been much innovation with natural fermentation techniques. Colombian producer Nestor Lasso has been pivotal in developing these methods, which have led to some exciting results.

Juan explains the process includes the following steps:

• After careful harvesting, mainly overripe Ombligon cherries (which have Brix levels ranging from 24°Bx to 26°Bx) are selected for processing
• The cherries are placed in bags and left to oxidise for 48 hours. This is followed by a 12-hour resting period, and then another 60-hour oxidation stage
• After 60 hours, the bags of cherries are left open to increase the temperature inside of them
• The cherries are then washed in 32°C (89.6°F) water to reduce the temperature difference between the water and inside the cherries
• Ombligon cherries are then placed into sealed plastic tanks to undergo anaerobic fermentation
• The cherries are washed in 60°C (140°F) water to stop the fermentation process, and are then dried using specialist dehumidifying equipment

Processing Ombligon for competitions

Juan tells me the processing techniques for Ombligon are much stricter and more precise when used for competitions.

“We process Ombligon cherries in stainless steel tanks in 200kg batches,” he says. “This means the variables are more controlled and are on a smaller scale, which helps to enhance the characteristics that Nestor wants to highlight for competitors who use this coffee.”

What does it taste like?

Jack explains that there were several reasons why he chose Ombligon for his 2023 World Barista Championship routine.

“This coffee is very unique. It’s complex, but it also has definable flavours and characteristics, which I think is one of the most important elements to consider when choosing a coffee for competitions.

“Using a variety that is new and interesting always excites me, but this year, Ombligon also fit so well into my routine,” he adds. “I spent a lot of time learning about Nestor’s innovative approach to fermentation, so his processing technique combined with the complexity of this coffee was a perfect choice.”

Many coffee professionals report tasting notes of raspberry, guava jam, mango, and white chocolate. Jack, meanwhile, tells me he has tasted red cherry, blood plum (a type of cherry plum), blood orange, watermelon, yellow peach, orange marmalade, dark chocolate, and toffee. 

During his 2023 WBC milk beverage course, Jack also mentioned notes of boysenberry ice cream and malted chocolate.

“The mouthfeel is incredible – it’s very silky and thick, and it coats the mouth,” he says. “It also has a long-lasting sweet finish, which is one of the reasons why I chose this coffee.”

Roasting Ombligon

To highlight all of Ombligon’s best qualities, finding the right roast profile is essential.

Jack explains how he spent a lot of time adjusting the roast profile. He found that the coffee works well as both espresso and filter.

“For espresso, I found that we needed to take a more gentle approach, as well as using a longer development time than usual, to balance the acidity,” he says “The Agtron readings were quite low, [which indicates a darker roast profile], but this made for a more balanced, sweet espresso.

“When prepared as espresso, I tasted more flavours of stone fruit, citrus, and chocolate,” he adds. “Meanwhile when roasted for filter, there were more flavours of cherry and a more vibrant acidity.”

Could Ombligon become more popular?

Given its potential for producing high yields and resilience to certain diseases, it seems there is some potential for Ombligon production to scale in the coming years. Moreover, there is a spotlight on this variety following the 2023 World Barista Championship – and this is likely to continue for some time.

Additionally, when using the right processing methods, Ombligon has produced some excellent flavour profiles that many coffee professionals and enthusiasts would certainly be interested to try.

However, for many producers, there is an obvious level of risk when experimenting with growing and processing new varieties. In order for more farmers to grow Ombligon, they would need the right level of support and access to resources.

“If it’s possible for more producers to grow Ombligon, I would love to see more of it in specialty coffee,” Jack says. “Nestor did an amazing job with the coffee I used, so it will be exciting to see what the future holds for Ombligon.”

With its potential to produce incredible results in the cup, demand for Ombligon is likely to increase over the next few years – albeit at a very slow and steady pace. As this variety is currently only grown in Huila, Colombia, the ability to scale production is somewhat limited.

If we want to see Ombligon in more coffee shops, more producers would have to start growing this variety. For this to happen, they would need plenty of support and access to the right resources.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on what happened at the 2023 World Barista Championship.

Photo credits: Specialty Coffee Association, Juan Pablo Campos, Lohas Beans

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But over the past decade or so, specialty coffee’s fixation on single origin coffees has become more and more pronounced. As well as the perception of higher quality, transparency and traceability have become increasingly important for consumers – people now want coffees which have a “story” behind them.

However, in recent years, blends have made something of a comeback. At previous World Barista Championships, we have seen more and more competitors use blends as part of their routines. Furthermore, as coffee prices have increased, more roasters have started to switch their focus towards blends to manage their costs more effectively.

So – are single origin coffees still more popular among specialty coffee consumers? And if they are, are they still really “better” than blends? To find out, I spoke to Joel Singer, founder and general manager at Origin Coffee in South Africa, and Lloyd Thom, green buyer at Campos Coffee in Australia. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on why knowledge of coffee origin matters.

What does “single origin” really mean?

Like with many other terms in specialty coffee, there is no formal definition of “single origin coffee”. Although we can determine that single origin coffees are sourced from one location, this can range from:

• One specific country
• A region within a country
• One particular farm or producer (who may own multiple farms)
• A specific plot of land on one farm (such as micro or nano lots, depending on the size)

Consequently, these coffees often have more unique flavour profiles, and are more expressive of the terroir in the region where they were grown. The term “terroir” – which is typically used in the wine industry – essentially encompasses all of the factors that contribute to the flavours in coffee. Some of these include:

• Altitude
• Soil quality & composition
• Climatic conditions
• Organisms which live or grow in, on, and around coffee farms

Furthermore, single origin coffees become more popular because more consumers care more about traceability and transparency. Compared to a blend – made up of several different component coffees – single origins are much easier to trace back to one particular region, farm, producer, or plot of land.

To market these coffees more effectively, roasters will often include more information on the packaging – such as altitude, variety, processing method, and cup score. They may also share more information about the producer and the farm with the consumer as a means of “bridging the gap” between the two.

Does “specialty” imply “single origin”?

For the most part, specialty coffee roasters and coffee shops have long since associated single origins with higher quality for a number of reasons.

This idea first came about during the third wave of coffee during the mid-to-late 2000s, which was marked by quality and traceability becoming much more important for both roasters and consumers. 

“The bigger commercial brands built their reputation on providing a consistent, yet sometimes lower-quality, product depending on their price points,” Joel says. “Back then, the way to differentiate your brand was to focus on traceability – who is the producer and where does your coffee come from.

“It was a cue to the customer that something was different about your coffee,” he adds.

Single origin coffees also helped to show consumers that some roasters work more closely with producers, and thereby know more about where their coffee comes from and how it was grown. Among other things, this can result in farmers receiving higher prices for their coffee, as well as establishing more trust with roasters to develop long-term working relationships.

“Single origins account for a relatively minor percentage of Campos’ overall sales, but they are at the core of our story and philosophy as a company,” Lloyd tells me. “We talk about the places these coffees come from and the people and processes involved.

“We aim to celebrate the origin itself, including the associations people may have with that specific country or region,” he adds.  

A premium experience

With specialty coffee consumers placing a growing emphasis on factors like traceability and sustainability, they are often willing to pay higher prices for single origin coffees – as long as they are high-quality.

[When drinking single origin coffee], it’s almost like you’re taking the customer on a journey that they didn’t necessarily know they wanted to go on,” Joel says. “But they appreciate it once they experience it.”

Ultimately, by being able to taste more unique and interesting sensory profiles, consumers get to enjoy the full spectrum of a coffee’s flavour. At the same time, they are also learning more information about origin and coffee production – adding more value to the overall experience.

“Offering single origins plays an important role in brand perception for roasters – similar to selling a range of expensive items,” Lloyd tells me. “They might be out of a customer’s price range, but the fact that the roaster has these coffees tells the consumer that they know what they’re doing [when it comes to high-quality coffee].”

But what about specialty coffee blends?

There’s no doubt that single origin coffees helped pave the way for a general push towards higher-quality coffee, and irrevocably shaped the specialty coffee sector for the better.

However, that’s not to say blends don’t have an important role to play, too.

Blends have been a staple of the coffee industry since its beginnings, and are a combination of at least two different coffees. These coffees may vary across a number of factors, including:

• Different countries (e.g. Brazil and Kenya)
• Various regions with a country
• Coffees from different producers in the same region
• Different varieties or processing methods from the same farm (in this case, coffees can be known as single-origin blends)

Historically, blends have been perceived as being lower quality in comparison to single origin coffees. This can certainly be true in some cases, especially when the flavours in the different coffees aren’t complementary, or their solubility levels aren’t similar enough to ensure even extraction.

Furthermore, it can be common practice for larger commercial roasters to blend arabica with lower-quality robusta to keep them cost-effective – which has added to the overall perception of blends as being lower quality in recent years.

However, more recently, this narrative has changed – especially in specialty coffee. The idea behind blends is to create consistent and more repeatable flavour profiles, and to create a more well-rounded, versatile coffee than a single origin might be able to offer.

Blends in competitions

Over the past two years, we have seen this most notably on the stage at the World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup. 

At the 2023 WBC, for instance, winner Boram Um used a blend of anaerobically fermented Gesha and natural Pink Bourbon in his milk beverage course. Italian competitor Daniele Ricci, who placed second, also used a blend of Colombian Gesha and Caturra from the same farm.

During their performances, both competitors emphasised how blending their coffees helped to create a more balanced and well rounded taste experience.

Dependability & consistency

Consumers are clearly willing to pay more for single origin coffees, but sometimes the decision simply boils down to consistency.

“Roasters don’t create blends that are better than the sum of their parts just to sell cheaper coffee,” Joel says. “Blends tend to be at entry-level price points for good reasons.

“At our coffee shops, around half of sales are blends,” he adds. “But with wholesale customers, it’s about 90% – prices are a concern for the vast majority of hospitality businesses.

“If every roaster was only selling single origins, consumers wouldn’t necessarily have the same experience wherever they go,” he continues.

So, are single origin coffees “better” than blends? Well, it’s difficult to say. Ultimately, the answer is completely subjective and based on an individual’s preference, so it’s impossible to draw a conclusion across the board.

As an industry, the most important thing will be acknowledging that both single origins and blends have a huge potential for quality – and as such, that they can coexist harmoniously.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on specialty coffee blends: How exciting can they be?

Photo credits: Lloyd Thom, Campos Coffee

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