Specialty coffee has transformed espresso. The industry’s preference for fruit-forward, sweeter, and brighter coffees has led many roasters and cafés to move away from traditional espresso roasts. Dark, roasty, and robusta-heavy blends that were so common in the late 1990s and early 2000s have largely been replaced with medium-to-light roasts and single origin options.

In the wake of these changes, there has been a flurry of innovation in espresso extraction that is redefining the drink in new ways. Coarser grind sizes, shorter extraction times, and lower pressure have created turbo shots – resulting in sweeter and cleaner flavours.

As coffee prices have climbed higher in recent years, we’ve seen a revert to blends and high-quality robusta. Specialty coffee pioneers like Blue Bottle launched the First Espresso arabica-robusta blend in early 2024, which pays “homage to espresso of the 1950s”.

Although it’s reductive to say that espresso has come full circle, there are signs that it’s returning to its roots. To find out more, I talked to Maurizio Giuli, CSO at Simonelli, Chiara Bergonzi, founder of Lot Zero, and Patrik Rolf, CEO of April Coffee Roasters.

You may also like our article on the history of the espresso machine.

The origins of the drink

When talking about how espresso has changed, we first need to understand what it has evolved from. Iconic Italian brand illycaffè defined a single espresso as 7g of coffee extracted between 88°C and 93°C under nine bar of pressure to produce a concentrated beverage of no more than 30ml.

This puts the “traditional” espresso shot at a 1:4 coffee-to-water ratio, substantially higher than the 1:2 or 1:3 ratios commonly used in specialty coffee shops today.

Roast profile is less discussed, however. While many assume that traditional espresso roasts would have been very dark, a recent video from James Hoffmann brewing coffee from the 1950s indicates that medium roasts may have been popular.

Another common assumption is that traditional espresso used robusta-heavy blends. Historical evidence, however, doesn’t entirely support this idea. 

Maurizio Giuli is the Chief Strategy Officer at Italian coffee equipment manufacturer Simonelli Group. “Traditionally, the main component of Italian espresso blends was Brazilian arabica,” he says. He explains that the move towards robusta didn’t happen until the mid-1970s when “high inflation in Italy coupled with a production crisis in Brazil meant that to keep the price of coffee affordable, a percentage of Brazilian arabica was replaced with robusta”.

Espresso culture and consumption habits were also significantly different a few decades ago. Chiara Bergonzi, the founder of specialty coffee roaster Lot Zero in Milan, Italy, explains how.

“A ‘traditional’ espresso is deeply rooted in Italian culture, where the focus is on simplicity, quick consumption, and affordability,” she says. “It’s a drink consumed quickly at the bar, conventionally for a very cheap price. Espresso is often considered a quick pick-me-up, often enjoyed standing, and without much fuss over the flavour profile. The focus is on intensity, body, and balance, rather than exploring nuances.”

Espresso continues to evolve

Technological evolution revolutionised espresso extraction and consumption. Prior to the late 1940s, machines could only brew espresso under 2 bar of pressure – meaning baristas were probably serving coffee more akin to a moka pot.

The addition of piston levers after World War Two profoundly changed the nature of espresso brewing, and ultimately gave us the drink we know today. Achille Gaggia discovered that boilers can force water into a cylinder before it’s pushed water through a bed of coffee – which is where the term “pulling a shot” comes from.

This led to a dramatic increase in brewing pressure from 1.5 to 2 bar to 8 to 10 bar, which also resulted in crema. Gaggia referred to it as “caffe creme” because the resulting coffee “was of such quality that it produced its own cream”.

Changes continued throughout the rest of the 20th century, especially as robusta was added to blends. To mask and reduce the overly bitter flavours, darker roasts became more prominent and baristas tightened coffee-to-water ratios. 

But as specialty coffee emerged in the 1990s and 2000s, approaches to roast profiling changed once again.

“The industry went in a very different direction,” Chiara says. “Sourcing higher-quality coffee meant flavour profiles became much more complex, highlighting acidity and sweetness that you wouldn’t typically find in a traditional espresso.”

To showcase quality and delicate flavours, more roasters started to embrace lighter roasts. Given its much shorter extraction times than filter coffee, however, espresso needed to be more soluble, so light roasts weren’t often the best choice.

“As specialty coffee was becoming popular, espresso consumption was growing outside of Italy,” Maurizio tells me. “There was a clash between different approaches to roast profiling and what was considered best for specialty coffee and espresso.”

Roasting for espresso

In many cases, lighter roasts result in overly acidic and unbalanced espresso. This problem was compounded by a “lighter-is-always-better” mentality regardless of how the coffee was brewed – especially as single origins became more popular.

Considering that solubility is key to extracting excellent espresso, more developed roast profiles usually work better.

“Medium roasts have gained popularity for several reasons, particularly due to a growing awareness that dark roasts tend to overshadow the positive attributes of coffee and accentuate bitter flavours,” Chiara says. “In contrast, medium roasts allow for the caramelisation of sugars, creating a more balanced profile that harmonises sweetness and acidity. This approach minimises the bitter components, resulting in a sensory profile that showcases bright, citrusy, and floral notes.”

Specialty coffee reinvents espresso

As specialty coffee consumption grew around the world, baristas and roasters adopted a more scientific approach to roasting and brewing.

“We’re much more precise, using advanced equipment that allows for better control of variables like pressure, temperature, and grind size,” Chiara says. “This has created a more refined espresso experience, improving consistency and the ability to extract more complex flavours.”

Education is also a tenet of specialty coffee, helping to bridge knowledge gaps in the supply chain and increase consumer awareness.

“Today’s coffee drinkers are much more informed about origins, processing methods, and even the environmental impact of their espresso, leading to a more thoughtful and conscious consumption experience,” Chiara adds.

Competitions have also played a pivotal role in redefining espresso. Patrik Rolf is the founder of Denmark’s April Coffee Roasters. He underscores the importance of the World Barista Championship, which he says “has always been at the forefront of espresso brewing innovation, made possible by a better understanding of equipment and water quality, among other factors.”

The industry-standard 1:2 ratio was turned on its head at the 2013 edition when Australian Barista Champion Matt Perger pulled longer “coffee shots” – similar to allongé or lungo shots common in Quebec, Canada and Italy. 

In the years since, there has been a flurry of experimentation with longer ratio espresso brewing outside of the competition, from the hybrid espresso-pour overs at California’s Cat & Cloud to the Noma-canos developed at the Danish fine-dining restaurant Noma. 

A scientific paper published in 2020 aimed to build on this innovation and systemically improve espresso extraction. Researchers found that a lower dose, coarser grind size, and shorter extraction time reduced channelling and increased extraction time, which produced a more balanced espresso with greater flavour clarity.

Unconventional brewing methods

There’s no doubt that experimenting with espresso extraction adds value to the industry. The purpose of the 2020 research paper was not only to improve extraction consistency but also to find a more cost-effective way to pull shots. Smaller doses and shorter brew times mean cafés use less coffee and can serve drinks more quickly, helping them save an estimated US $3,600 a year.

However, applying an approach developed in a scientific environment to a commercial setting doesn’t always work. Moreover, using different variables would drastically change how we experience espresso, which may not align with consumer preferences.

“The majority of consumers, especially in certain markets, are unlikely to embrace brighter and more acidic flavour profiles in espresso,” Chiara says. “While there is a growing appreciation for the complexity of washed coffees, many espresso drinkers still gravitate towards milder, fuller-bodied flavours that darker roasts and unwashed coffees typically offer.”

Chiara adds, however, that customers have developed a deeper understanding of espresso, which has shifted consumption habits.

“Arabica tends to be more balanced, allowing the natural sweetness and acidity to shine through,” she says. “This encourages drinkers to experience more nuanced flavours and add less sugar to their coffee.”

A return to tradition?

Since its invention in the late 19th century, espresso has undergone a huge transformation, largely thanks to specialty coffee. But recent reverts to blends and robusta indicate a return to its roots.

As coffee prices and business costs have steadily climbed over the last few years, more and more specialty coffee roasters have introduced high-quality blends to their offerings. A cost-effective menu option, blends also tend to result in more balanced and well-rounded flavour profiles for espresso than single origin lots.

Simultaneously, we’ve also seen robusta rise to prominence. A useful addition to blends and a steadily growing single origin offering, robusta has proved to be an affordable option for roasters to manage their margins.

In early March 2024, pioneering specialty coffee roaster Blue Bottle launched the First Espresso arabica and robusta blend to “reimagine the profile of the first modern espressos”. Inspired by the 1950s, which the brand describes as pivotal to the popularisation of espresso, the product signifies a shift towards a traditional approach to blends, roast profiles, and coffee flavour.

The ever-changing nature of espresso

The answer to the question of whether espresso should change is that it has constantly been evolving since its inception.

“Change has been necessary to move us away from the mistakes of the past and towards a better understanding of how to brew and serve a good espresso,” Patrik says. “Specialty coffee is, in many ways, an expression of our own perspective on coffee, so there’s no right or wrong way.”

More changes are inevitable, too. “What is considered ‘good’ now won’t be ‘good enough’ in ten years,” Maurizio says. “Consumer preferences will, of course, further evolve in the years to come.”

One of the most profound changes has been consumer perception of espresso. More people now enjoy the drink for its flavour and sensory experience rather than just a quick energy fix. 

The question of whether espresso can ever be too “unconventional”, however, will always remain.

“I wouldn’t say espresso has become too unorthodox, but that we remained stagnant for too many years, unlike other food trends that have evolved and influenced the culture around them,” Chiara says. “Specialty coffee is raising consumer awareness, allowing them to better understand and appreciate what’s in their cup. This evolution isn’t about moving away from tradition but elevating standards and increasing appreciation for the craft.”

From the intense and bold flavours associated with its early days to the brighter and more acidic sensory profiles we know today, espresso has come a long way.

Trends in the coffee industry are cyclical, so consumer preferences are likely to shift over time. Whichever way they swing, there will always be room for further innovation.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether crema is always necessary for excellent espresso.

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